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Old Feb 01, 2013, 08:53 PM
Mr. Crash and Burn
Joined Jan 2013
430 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
Because I wanted to use the screw mount as a pinch point,
to ensure a solid connection
oh ok i was wandering and by the way love the new look of the heli thats what it should look like from the factory should submit ur design to doublehorse lol
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 09:41 PM
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United States, WI, Beloit
Joined Nov 2012
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MJX-F645 Tail Lights

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Last edited by Steve_; Apr 21, 2013 at 09:36 AM.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:21 PM
Jeff Carlson
St. Paul, Minnesota
Joined Apr 2008
38 Posts
9116 Flybar Issues

Hello to everyone here. I have been in and out of RCG from time to time. Was a fixed wing guy for a long lime then more recently got back into helis (wise decision?????) not sure, LOL! Anyway....yes I too just purchased a DH9116...waiting for it to arrive. Also have a Blade mSR and DH 9101................So my main question I would like to ask is....I see all the problems with the flybar wacking the fuse and tail....can't one of the lighter (plastic) flybars from one of the larger DH's like the 9101 or 9077 be used on the 9116 and possibly end the overweight FB issue ?...................Please share your thoughts on this
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:28 PM
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 01:53 AM
Jeff Carlson
St. Paul, Minnesota
Joined Apr 2008
38 Posts
Also wanted to ask all of you the best online resource for 7.4v lipos (Higher MAh and c rating) with standard JST connectors for the new 9116 and 9101
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 01:57 AM
Jeff Carlson
St. Paul, Minnesota
Joined Apr 2008
38 Posts
Thank you Steve for your prompt reply...........I knew there was a reason I liked hanging out here!......But again, have to ask, if anyone has tried to retro-fit any of the other (lighter) DH flybars to the 9116..............thus preventing strikes !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yikes !
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 05:04 AM
Just a 9116 flyer.
Rajah235's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wollongong
Joined Dec 2012
625 Posts
For JMCarlson,
(I hate that "@" thing when replying.)
Steve has lightened his but one or 2 others have simply bent them.
One has bent it to about 40 degs (I believe), horizontally towards the blades, while another has curved them up at about 30 degs. (Like a cows horns?) ((I did this & it works.Clears the canopy easily.))
Found one Image of the bent one.
The cow horns one is somewhere in the old thread, I think.
The "bends/curves" are made at around 1.5 to 2" from the weight. TBV.

There are a few recommended Li-Po's but I think the consensus was to use 2s 850 mAh or 900 mAh ones.
Not sure about brands used coz there are heaps.
These "New" Turnigy nano-tech ones look good.
> http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

I bought these before I saw the Turnigy nano-techs.
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300825419...84.m1439.l2649

The more informed & knowledgeable regulars will have more info.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 05:35 AM
Ain't crashing often anymore
mikefromgermany's Avatar
Germany, Berlin
Joined Jun 2012
3,533 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajah235 View Post
For JMCarlson,
(I hate that "@" thing when replying.)
Steve has lightened his but one or 2 others have simply bent them.
One has bent it to about 40 degs (I believe), horizontally towards the blades, while another has curved them up at about 30 degs. (Like a cows horns?) ((I did this & it works.Clears the canopy easily.))
Found one Image of the bent one.
The cow horns one is somewhere in the old thread, I think.
The "bends/curves" are made at around 1.5 to 2" from the weight. TBV.
Bent ones:#
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1750650

-mike-
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 05:58 AM
Just a 9116 flyer.
Rajah235's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wollongong
Joined Dec 2012
625 Posts
Thank you very much, Mike.
I knew I'd seen the "bull horned" ones somewhere.
As I mentioned, they work well.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 09:59 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2012
1,576 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_ View Post
Today we will make tail lights without feeder wires.

We will remove the LED wiring, and use the existing
tail motor wiring and the boom as our conductors.

The tail motor on the 9116 is wired so that the positive
side of the circuit is hot at all times on one motor lead,
and they vary the motor speed by impeding the path to
ground.

What this means is that if we have an independent ground,
we can tap off that positive feed to run small accessories.

First I wired a 390 ohm resistor to the battery negative
terminal on the PCB. This is what we will ground the
boom with, and the resistor will keep things from going
up in smoke if there is a short. It also happens to be the
correct resistance to run a couple of LED's with an
8 volt source.

From the resistor, I ran a short piece of wire to the boom,
and then crushed the stripped end of the wire inside the
mount to ensure a good connection.

I did the same thing on the tail end, and then used the
battery positive feed from the motor to drive the 2 LED's

It works perfect, and the weight I saved from the removed
wire and plug (1.5 grams) was enough to add another tail LED,
and still have the tail weigh less than at the start.

Now I have a solid blue LED on the bottom of the tail, and a
blinking one at the top.

Steve, all of your mods look really really great, but-----those inner sideplates are screaming "DRILL ME, I'M TOO FAT!!!!)rolleyes:
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 12:43 PM
Just a 9116 flyer.
Rajah235's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wollongong
Joined Dec 2012
625 Posts
I will soon know how many RPM's these things do.
Just bought a digital, non-contact tacho for $12.00 + free postage.
Must be a goodie at that price.
Others in the list, (the same un-named brand), were anything up to $40 or $50.

Still awaiting some spacer washers & ball bearings for the S 16D, so nothing further to report yet.

I think Steve has looked at drilling more out of various parts but thought better of it, because of "Impending structural failure".

L..
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 01:51 PM
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Last edited by Steve_; Apr 21, 2013 at 09:36 AM.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 02:09 PM
Registered User
United States, FL, Jacksonville
Joined Jan 2013
160 Posts
Hi guys, I just burnt out my pcb board on my 9100. Was wondering where you guys get your pcb boards and tx from? Been scouring the net looking for those. Since I killed it, might as well upgrade it to a 9116. Just trying to see what the cost would be, if it's worthy or just get the original board and spend the money on something better.
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 02:11 PM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2012
1,576 Posts
Re: impending structural failure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajah235 View Post

I think Steve has looked at drilling more out of various parts but thought better of it, because of "Impending structural failure".

L..
I know you're kidding, but that is the reason I made my outer sideplates out of plastic. If I drilled out the aluminum ones as much as the plastic ones that I fabricated they really would be very structurally weak and it wouldn't take much of a crash to bend the heck out of them. (Steve was on the right track on how he modified his. The areas that he left intact are the important ones, the remainder is mainly cosmetic). The plastic will flex on impact and depending on the plastic used can take a lot of punishment without damage.

I've found that any plastic that is also used as an integrated hinge is very tough. I just made a set of sideplates out of an old vcr tape box that flexes along one side as a hinge for the cover.

The inner sideplates though are boxed by the helicopter's plastic components and are therefore very rigid even when drilled out radically, so that's a good place to lose weight. Plus I think it looks cool, but as the saying goes,"Beauty is in the eye of the beholder".
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 03:04 PM
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Last edited by Steve_; Apr 21, 2013 at 09:36 AM.
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