|Feb 23, 2012, 05:32 AM|
Windsor, Canada, near Detroit
Joined Jul 2007
packing the turns
can anybody provide details on packing the turns?
like: using homemade tools for doing the square bends or whatever.
or if there is a thread about it.
also if there are links for manuals that explain this.
|Feb 23, 2012, 08:38 AM|
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
I use a home made 3rd Hand device to apply some tension to the wire as I wind, that really helps my aging hands do better work:
Some of the essential pushing, packing, and prodding tools are seen there too.
The sequence is generally to start on the inside of the arm, wind out to the end, and then come back to the inside in a second layer. It has been found that leaving the first turn or two on a arm, in the bottom of the "V", on the slightly loose side, pays a dividend later in that it lets those shift a little to make room for the "money turns" as they are worked into and through the windingnlayers for the last turn or two.
Pressing the layers flat against the sides of the arms with a APC prop tip is a good thing, running the tip and sllwly thickening blade in between the layers of turns on adjacent arms forces them back and makes more room before you start back down on the second layer and as the turns start crowding the turns on the adjacent arm.
For the money turns I use a T-pin (immaculately bright and with an undamaged nickle coating) to open a passage between two bundles. Push the pin through avoiding nicks on the turns and pull it out. Carefully blunt and round the end of the wire with emery cloth and slide it down through the passage.
I have some small pliers with flat smooth jaws (plated actually) and can use those to take a light, non-damaging, grip on the wire to move it down into a passage in short movements against the friction. You can see the T-pin thing at work in this thread:
This is the biggest single strand of wire I have used, 18 AWG, in a LRK wind. On that one I put the transit runs on the top of the stator to relieve some of the congestion at the bottom.
When you get to the point where the wire will not make a decent right angle turn at the shoulders of the stator arms or lay flat along the sides of the arms, is when I would start looking at doing the wind with two or more smaller parallel strands. That is what I did on that Dualsky PR.40 wind that I posted the link to up above.
You can keep two or three parallel strands winding neatly and avoid crossing turns but when the bundles get to much higher counts than that I think you just give up and take what you get as far a keeping things orderly. Orderly is not just a being anal thing, crossing turns do something that is not good as far as flux lines or something.
Show us you project when you get a chance, we're always interested...
|Feb 23, 2012, 11:51 AM|
Joined Nov 2000
I use a COX 5x3 rubbery black plastic prop. It does Not chew wire insulation. And wee needle nose pliers.. with tape padded jaws.. are v effective in forming the coils tightly
Also found that Hero levels of wire packing is of relative advantage.
Density is certainly good, but No amount of DIY packing in of wire will turn a cheap motor into a Lehner or a Neumotor :-)
|Feb 23, 2012, 12:07 PM|
USA, PA, Telford
Joined Apr 2004
Copied from the CD ROM sticky, Enjoy
winding tricks, better packing
|Feb 23, 2012, 12:10 PM|
use a piece of wood with properly shaped heads, to flat the wires at the corners of the teeth, and to push wires inside. I am using a wooden Chinese chopstick.
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