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Old Sep 20, 2014, 07:20 AM
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Align screws...

I'm getting tired of stripping NEW screws after 1/4 of a turn. Align screws are way too shallow. Do you guy know where I can buy some deep head hex screws? I will pay any price.
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Old Sep 20, 2014, 01:41 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Central Bedfordshire
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Hi mate use a torxs driver in it they work well when the allen has stripped , i have seen after market screw kits , just need to remember where ,found them mate
http://www.rcscrewz.com/product_info...oducts_id/2745
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Old Sep 20, 2014, 02:48 PM
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Many of the model heli shops have 3rd-party screw sets, such as the ones on this page http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/inde...=74_894&page=1 (scroll down a little).

My experience with my T-Rex 500 is that it's the little black self-tapping M2.6 screws that are the main problem, but they're not included in the 3rd-party set I bought, and unfortunately I can't find a replacement for them. But a good quality hex driver helps a lot -- I noticed a big improvement over my Ripmax or Perkins (can't remember which they are) ones when I bought a set of Bondhus drivers.
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Old Sep 20, 2014, 03:03 PM
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My LHS here in Norway actually has these RC Screwz kits so I might give them a try. I will probably have to buy better tools too since the ones I have are like the cheapest I found in a local tool shop. Thanks for the help!
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Old Sep 21, 2014, 06:44 AM
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I got into an other problem... One of these three little linkage balls on the swash plate broke inside the socket and now the tip is stuck in there... Is there any possibility to get it out without damaging the threads inside the socket? At this point more things broke from normal use rather than from crashing... Is it only me or do other people have problems with crappy quality? I just wanted to see if none of the screws are loose and then this happens.
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Old Sep 21, 2014, 12:52 PM
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Hi mate first i would try a very small flat blade screw driver, it may grip the rough surface of the bit thats left in , as your new i take by low post count sorry if i am wrong , you may just a little heavy handed i stripped loads when i started , your get the feel of the screws in time if using lock tight dont over tighten let the lock tight do its job , i have had lots of clones so had loads of stripped screws, but when i got the align 500 it was nice to have a kit that didnt strip any screws
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Old Sep 21, 2014, 01:05 PM
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How much loctite do I need to use? Should I just have it on the tip or a little more? Also what loctite strenght should I choose? Sorry for bombing you with questions ;D
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Old Sep 21, 2014, 03:23 PM
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To answer your last question first, blue Loctite is what is generally used. You only need a small drop on the end of the screw thread. It's quite easily removable, but stops things vibrating loose on their own. Don't use it where screws go into plastic though, only into metal.

As for removing the stub of your ball link, if none of it is protruding so that you can grip it with pliers, I had success recently using a very small burr tool in my electric drill. It was a bit like the one at the right here http://www.axminster.co.uk/tungsten-...SrEaAjSF8P8HAQ but smaller, and came as part of a cheap cutting/grinding/drilling/polishing set for a Dremel type tool. I thought I could use it to ream out the stub, but when I switched the drill into reverse, it actually gripped the stub after a while, and screwed it right out It probably started moving when the friction heat loosened the Loctite.
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Old Sep 21, 2014, 03:38 PM
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Could you link me the blue loctite you are talking about? I want to see how the bottle/tube looks like.
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Old Sep 21, 2014, 03:50 PM
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Until recently I was using some in a small tube -- can't remember what number it was. Now I'm using Loctite 248 which comes as a solid stick http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-408...=8802623553537 -- a bit less messy than the liquid, and I think it's working okay.

I must admit I don't really know what all Loctite's product numbers are about, but the ones I use are both blue colour, and are described as "medium" strength.
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Old Sep 21, 2014, 08:17 PM
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Here is a pic of the loctite. Also all Allen wrench's are not alike. This one from team Integy is slightly larger than normal.
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Old Sep 21, 2014, 10:18 PM
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Any metric 12.9 alloy steel screws in the appropriate size will do. 12.9 are the strongest screws you can get. Some people use 8-18 stainless steel screws for non critical parts like frame screws due to it's tendency to bend first and save the frame. The heads on stainless steel screws hold up well but they should never be used for critical parts like feathering shaft screws or blade bolts.

Get a good set of drivers, even quality screws will strip the heads with crappy drivers. Dynamite RC makes a good set that is reasonably priced. I'm talking about the the ones with the red aluminum handles NOT the ones with the plastic handles and black tips, those are junk. The red handled ones have machined (rather than swaged) bits and will last for years.

Only wet the end of the screw with locktite and blot off the excess. Do not gorilla torque the screw, just make it tight. What I do is hold the driver between my thumb and first two fingers to limit how much torque I can apply to the screw.

An exception is the feathering shaft and tail rotor shaft bolts, you want those nice and tight and they thread into steel which can take more torque than aluminum. You just want them good and tight, don't bear down on them like Arnold Schwarzenegger or it can actually weaken the bolt.
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Old Sep 22, 2014, 01:31 AM
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I found some Loctite 243 blue medium strenght in my garage. Will it be ok or does it have to be 245/248? Also as for the screwdrivers... What do you guys think about MIP Thorp ones? I read they are pretty expenisve, but really good.
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Old Sep 22, 2014, 06:57 AM
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Paderborn DE
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Just to add a quick point about the Locktite…..

Many (many) years ago when I was starting to play with these things I ‘acquired’ a bottle of thread lock from work, the guys were using it on 1:1 scale Lynx and Gazelle helicopters so I figured that it would be ideal. The stuff was green in colour and set like concrete, so much so that I regularly snapped the heads off of 3 mm bolts trying to get them out!!!

As we used Locktite products in the workshop we had a large poster on the wall telling the Aircraft Techs which products to use where and on the poster was a help-line number.

A quick ‘phone call and they were really helpful explaining that most of the Locktite range is designed for fasteners over 4 mm thread diameter. They did however point me to Locktite 222 which is a product specifically designed for thread sizes of less than 6 mm which can be removed with normal hand tools. The stuff is pink in colour and I use a tooth pick to apply a drop onto all metal/ metal threads. I have NEVER had a bolt vibrate loose (I flew I/C powered models for over 15 years) and have only ever rounded out the head of cheap quality ‘clone’ screws (which I now no longer use, they get replaced before assembling any kit).

Not saying that this is the only suitable product but I am saying that this is the only product designed specifically for the screws which we use and that I have used it with total success for over 20 years.

The other top tip is decent tools, worth their weight in gold. If you can get hold of one, buy a 1/16” hex driver for use on 3 mm grub screws. The 1/16” is 1.6 mm across the flats whereas a metric 1.5 mm key is actually 1.4 mm across the flats. If you feel you 1.5 mm key ‘click’ as it slips around, grab the 1/16” to easily remove the offending grub screw to then throw it away!!!!

Not after a bun fight with people that use a different product, many roads lead to Rome, this is just mine. Only trying to help.

Paul
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Old Sep 22, 2014, 07:48 AM
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I have some 222 Loctite at work. I think the main difference between the 243 and 222 is that the 222 is marked as "weak" and is pink while the 243 is blue and is marked as "medium". I looked a bit over the internet and people are strongly recommending the 243 so I guess I'll try that one out.
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