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Old Feb 20, 2012, 01:38 AM
WiggleWiggleWiggle
ozzi supercub's Avatar
South Australia
Joined Jan 2008
6,066 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroCharged View Post
I just completed 'binding' the model to my DX7.

Now, here's something interesting:

In Australia, most of us fly Mode1, including me, but the Anylink is set for Mode2.
Instead of trying to re-channel it, I removed all the plugs from the Rxer and plugged them back in Spektrum style:
Ch 1 - throttle
Ch2 - aileron
Ch3 - elevator
Ch4 - rudder.
Job done.

The plugs came out and went back in without fuss. The ESC lead was juuuuust long enough to make it over to Ch1 from Ch3...

Lipo's are charged, pre-flights are good. Now I'm just waiting for a chance to fly.
I think I hate you.....
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 05:15 AM
Team30 Micro EDF
NitroCharged's Avatar
Adelaide, Australia
Joined Apr 2004
11,207 Posts
Hey Ozzi, the scary part was it had been sitting there since last Friday!
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 05:17 AM
R.C. Aviation Fanatic
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Canada
Joined Aug 2009
20,889 Posts
So I have to change my anylink over? I fly mode 1 as well
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 06:35 AM
Way to many airplanes!
Canada, QC
Joined Oct 2009
5,458 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
As well being tail heavy.. I flew with 320's today, a little nose heavy making up Nanotech 300's now..
Quote:
Originally Posted by brushless55 View Post
let me know how those 300's work, I may buy some from HK

I can already tell you that those Nanotech are a huge pain to solder since I made some a few months ago. Not sure what the tabs are made of, but you need very good quality solder and flux to make your own packs with those!

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Old Feb 20, 2012, 07:08 AM
R.C. Aviation Fanatic
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Canada
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Looks like fun

Not!!!
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 07:12 AM
Heli collector
livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RealGambler View Post
I can already tell you that those Nanotech are a huge pain to solder since I made some a few months ago. Not sure what the tabs are made of, but you need very good quality solder and flux to make your own packs with those!


I had no problem at all I just unsoldered the wires that were there and soldered mine on to the same spot. Was even easier than doing up the Hyperion's as the tabs already had solder on them.. Yours didn't have solder holding the wires to the tabs??
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 07:17 AM
Heli collector
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United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
16,526 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by brushless55 View Post
Ok, thank you!
that was a question I was going to ask.. if maybe we should move the CG more forward.. and I was going to try mine on the first flight at 65mm

let me know how those 300's work, I may buy some from HK
If you do also order the 10 pack of charger extensions for making up the leads and pick up some micro Deans.. I'll show you the easy way I found to make these up..
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 07:17 AM
Way to many airplanes!
Canada, QC
Joined Oct 2009
5,458 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
I had no problem at all I just unsoldered the wires that were there and soldered mine on to the same spot. Was even easier than doing up the Hyperion's as the tabs already had solder on them.. Yours didn't have solder holding the wires to the tabs??
They have changed them it seem. Mine were spot welded on very long tabs. I cut the tabs (my first mistake I guess) since I don't like long tabs. So I had nothing left to solder on other than bare tabs. That's a good news! Yes, there was a bit of solder on the wire, but that was on a piece of metal, that was spot welded to the tab themselves (adding resistance) and rolled down. That was too messy for me!
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 09:03 AM
Registered User
United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
4,014 Posts
Soldering up packs---The solder tabs need to be scuffed before attempting to solder or the solder WILL NOT adhere to the tabs!!...I use a Dremel cutoff wheel on edge to lightly scuff the tabs..It is also IMPERATIVE that you keep the tip of the soldering iron clean...Use a damp paper towel to clean off residual solder/flux before soldering each tab...Using a separate soldering flux works MUCH better than a flux core solder...

Kevin
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 09:16 AM
Registered User
United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
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I picked up my Sabre yesterday!!!...By the time I got home the sun had set too much to get in a flight...I'm going to get off of work today about 2 1/2 hours before the sun sets so I should get in a couple of flights...

About the plane---What a GREAT little piece of CRAFTSMANSHIP!!!...No cheesey tape to hold the fuselage together...The seam in the fuselage is so well hidden that it looks like a panel line...The panel lines on the plane are pretty crisp, especially the lines on the flying surfaces....Not too wide like you see on other foamies...This plane could almost pass for a plastic kit desk top model---It's that nice!!!...I did notice that there is some washout built into the wing...A few degrees worth...In person, the larger than scale intake opening doesn't look that noticeable...The only flaw that I could find was when looking down the intake there is a small ridge where the battery box styro moulding isn't aligned with the fuselage moulding...A VERY minor criticism as 2 seconds with a Dremel will remedy the ridge to being a ghost....

I'm VERY satisfied with the appearance of the plane...I can't hardly wait to get off from work to fly it!!

Kevin
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 09:56 AM
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United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Nov 2011
3,366 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
If you do also order the 10 pack of charger extensions for making up the leads and pick up some micro Deans.. I'll show you the easy way I found to make these up..
I did not realize these are the MCPx batteries
and why do I need the 10 pack of charger ext. ?
maybe I could make a killer little series connector for my MCPx lipos with a micro deans on it
I have 5 Nanos
3 Hyperions
2 Miniaviations
and 2 of the new 30c Eflites
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 10:02 AM
Heli collector
livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
16,526 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RealGambler View Post
They have changed them it seem. Mine were spot welded on very long tabs. I cut the tabs (my first mistake I guess) since I don't like long tabs. So I had nothing left to solder on other than bare tabs. That's a good news! Yes, there was a bit of solder on the wire, but that was on a piece of metal, that was spot welded to the tab themselves (adding resistance) and rolled down. That was too messy for me!
A all to common mistake.. I now leave them long and fold them over neatly..


Longer tabs also helps keep me from melting a hole in the battery bag and letting all the smoke out that trapped in there..

I do trim off a bit of the Hyperion tabs but only after I have soldered on the wire..
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 11:19 AM
R.C. Aviation Fanatic
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Canada
Joined Aug 2009
20,889 Posts
I'm not understanding why anylink doesn't work with mode 1 transmitters??
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 11:23 AM
Registered User
United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
4,014 Posts
I was getting my Sabre ready to fly this afternoon on my "lunchbreak... " @ work....First thing that I noticed is that this model is VERY tail heavy with the supplied battery...DO NOT try to fly this model without making sure the model balances!!!...In other words for you beginners out there---Don't assume that the model will have the correct CG with the supplied battery and fly out of the box!!!

Next, I connected up the AnyLink to my JR 9503 TX and the mapping of the servos is wrong...The throttle is on the elevator channel, ailerons are on the throttle channel, and the elevators are on the aileron channel...The AnyLink instructions talk about re-mapping the RX but I'm going to just do the easy thing by unplugging the servos and re-connecting them in their proper sockets...

Kevin
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 12:03 PM
Inciting Riots
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Joined Dec 2006
9,687 Posts
I shouldn't be posting but I see a problem about to happen and some very sad people will be the result.... If you simply switch the connections you could have a run away. If the user manual is correct this system has hold last on all channels except throttle, and throttle is set at bind, this is the throttle where the system thinks it should be, not where you choose to plug it in. This is the same as many of the Spektrum receivers.

As far as the mode 1 vs. mode 2, I would have thought that no matter which mode the TX is using that the output channel order would have been the same, but I could be wrong.
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