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Old Sep 13, 2012, 09:23 AM
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the Netherlands
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Low-wing Q500; dihedral? And how to laminate / sheet?

Hi,

I've designed a Q500 plane, fuse is built. It's a low wing plane. Now I'll put together the two wing halves, and I see many low wing quickies with a bit of dihedral. Why? Is it advisable? I've flow many low wing planes (not racers) without it. Please advise, preferably from experience!

Cheers,

Hugo
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Last edited by HugoW; Sep 15, 2012 at 01:10 AM. Reason: Changed title, because of sheeting question.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 01:39 PM
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For a racer you do not need dehedral. Also high wing is faster than a low wing.
Randy
Q500Racing.com
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 03:13 PM
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Thanks, i thought so, just wanted to be sure. Any reason why a low wing is slower, other then me flying it? I made it low-wing to make a battery hatch on the top for easy access. It's an EQ500 plane, conform Dutch (European? Worldwide?) Electric Quickie rules.

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 08:56 PM
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United States, WA, Port Angeles
Joined Dec 2009
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I dunno bout the quickie!

but I am starting a build on an old sig mustang 450 F1 pylon racer, and it says to put in atleast 2" to 3" dihedral! doesn't splane why! just what it says!
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 11:48 AM
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Hi, I have a low wing Q500 and dihedral bearing is 1.5 and is very very fast, in fact is much faster in the passage between pylons, turns them perfect nothing to compare with high wings, the only problem (if you can call it a problem) is the landing is not very technical for beginners, because if you get on track very fast and gives you a bounce on the floor, rest assured that you will break something following rebound otherwise is impressive, at least the model I fly, and is called SHORTY homemade design the project and is a friend of mine that does portugues, but now I make them for me my , will try to put a picture.
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 03:03 PM
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Thanks for the input, nice plane! Here's what I'm working on:





Working on the tail, now, wing is next. The whole fuse it out of balsa(-laminate), and very light but stiff. And strong enough. I have very conflicting info about sheeting the foam wing, so some thinking to do before I venture into building it.

Any more input is appreciated, picks of course, too!

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 01:27 AM
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Hi guys,

just gathering info about sheeting the wing. We have noise limits, here, so we don't run Nelsons but the most used motor is the Irvine 0.39, with a 10x7 prop. My electro equivalent should get the same speeds, this is regulated.

My wing will be cut from foam, and have chambers cut to make it lighter. I use a relatively dense / heavy foam for good finish, hence the chambers. I also make two cut-outs, one top one bottom, to glue in 1/4" spruce spars. This replaces the carbon strips used by many. Then I want to sheet with 1/8" balsa. Now for the problem:

Look at this one:
http://sempra.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=34
Here they use 2 ounce (per square foot??) fibre glass. Now I do metric, so that it 610 gram per square metre. Using about 0,7 square metre for a wing, that is already 420 grams of glass. I guess this would make a 2 pound (or more) wing. Probably very strong, but I read somewhere the wing of a Viper ARF weighs about 570 grams, including servo.

Look at this one:
Sheeting a Quickie Wing - Part 1 (10 min 0 sec)

Here they use 0,6 ounce glass. And some extra on the trailing edge. That's a big difference!

What is wisedom to do? I don't need 'Nelson' strength wings, but I would like it to stay in one piece while flying...

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 06:53 AM
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United States, KS, Overland Park
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I believe the glass is two ounces per square yard (9 sq ft) not two Oz per square foot.
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 08:55 AM
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United States, FL, Winter Haven
Joined Jan 2008
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Fizz is correct, 1.4oz or 2oz per sq. yard cloth. In the Scorpion wing, I use the fiberglass strips to stiffen the LE & TE and the uni-carbon fiber to carry the flight loads. The center section has some additional cloth for attachment strength and the outer surface covered in .5oz or .75oz per sq. yard cloth. All up weight painted, ready to fly (minus servo) is 11oz to 13 oz (310g to 370g). The TE of my wings taper to a sharp edge, and without the glass, would be weak & wavy. With the fiberglass, they will remain stiff, even when thin enough to cut you!

The Viper wings are 4oz to 7oz heavier than this.

Good luck with your project, and feel free to ask anything you need to!


Scott Smith
NMPRA District 7 VP
SEMPRA President
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 03:22 PM
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Ah, per square yard, that makes more sense. I'm good at imperial when it's one-dimensional figures, but squares and then weight I'm lost! Thanks for the input. Here's my wing plan:



This is the foam. It will be sheeted in 1/16" balsa, and cloth / resin. Leading edge is 1/4" balsa, the two stringers are 1/4" spruce (?!?, is that the right word?). I will make two wing panels, and join them with a joiner of 5/8" heigh and 1/4" thick, glued between the stringers. and off course extra glass around the joint. Still contemplating some ideas about the tips, probably some lump of balsa which I'll sand into a decent shape.

Comments welcome!

Cheers,

Hugo
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 03:59 PM
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Oh, slightly off topic but maybe interesting to see, I just posted at the Dutch forum so this is an easy copy / paste:



































































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Old Sep 15, 2012, 03:59 PM
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Had to cut it into two posts...











































Hugo
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 05:40 PM
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uanas twins' photos as I do all the fuselage will fiberglassing
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 05:46 PM
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uanas twins' photos as I do all the fuselage will fiberglassing
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 05:50 PM
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This fuselage was fiberglassing 86GR fiber, to withstand all the vibrations of the engines jett, unpainted fuselage weighs 282gr, not bad, we'll see how weight is to finish painting
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