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Old May 01, 2012, 09:25 PM
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84" Penn Valley Quaker

Inspired in part by Evan D's planes and posts and videos, I've started in on an 84" Quaker kit from Penn Valley Hobby Center. It will of course be electrically powered.

This is (or will be) by far my biggest build ever. I'm psyched. But I have some questions for those who might have been down this road...

The design calls for a one-piece wing, and it sure would be handy if the wing was in two parts. I just don't know how to go about that conversion particularly in light of the fairly pronounced dihedral. Can one get pre-bent (and precisely bent) aluminum tubes? Or can one build sturdy and precise sockets for the 1/2" square spars to plug into at the fuse?

Also not quite sure how much power it's going to need, or what the final AUW might be, or how to arrange battery access. I''ve heard rumors of around 6 lbs., and a power system of 800 watts or so. Is that in the ballpark?

The kit arrived last Saturday. As of this evening I have the vertical stab and rudder built. I've seen the tailpieces built "flat" and with a quasi-airfoil shape. For better or for worse I've gone with the airfoil shape, though it adds a bit of weight and complication. Laminating the curved shapes is straightforward, though it's a slow process since it's done with aliphatic glue. One bow per evening... but only three more to go.

I imagine I might start in on the wings and/or fuselage within a few days. I still need to prepare a proper workspace for doing that.
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Old May 02, 2012, 03:01 PM
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The plan shows a flat center section with dihedral breaks on each side of the fuselage right?

I built mine in two halves split right in the middle. Hefty steel rod joiner with brass tubing receivers in each wing half. The receivers are between the main spars, encased in epoxy/microballoon/chopped fiberglass mix with plywood shear webs front and back. Center section sheeting fiberglassed.

At least that is how it will be finished some day. The wings are framed up and the joiner tubes sorted out, but I shelved it because I only fly electric now. I'd like to finish it for SAM electric competition, but there are no electric contests local to me that I know of. SAM will also have to come up with electric rules that don't force me to use a spreadsheet to select a legal power setup and/or force the use of brushed motors.
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Old May 10, 2012, 02:33 PM
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The last Quaker I put together,the fourth, I did a two piece wing but made two pieces by dividing the wing at a point between the center section and tip.Thisget the joiner away from the high load area.The joiner is carbonfiber rod in bras tubing and a dowel rod locator pin.The carbon main joiner is located at the spar and the pin toward the TE.You could use this method and make it a three piece wing to keep the sectionc even smaller.
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Old May 10, 2012, 04:17 PM
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Well... The 105" Quaker 2000 has plug in wings and I can take some some pictures of how I do it. Nice and clean. Basically each wing half has tounges that fit into boxes built into the center section and once slid together a pin goes through to hold them together, here is a shot of someone elses build.

As far as power, the 84" builds about the same weight as the 105" and fly really well on a .40 size glow. I like hovering and doing rolling circles with mine so I over powered it a bit with a Turnigy 5055-400kV, 80A ESC, 6S 5000mA LiPo, and turning a wood 15x7e prop. Use that as a guide and adjust accordingly.
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Old May 10, 2012, 11:24 PM
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Glad to see some responses at last. The more I think about the two-piece wing, the more it seems that it might not be worth the trouble. As long as I've got my Subaru Outback (and no passengers) I suppose I can schlep the long wing.

Evan's suggestion comes closest to the plan that I'd come up with on my own. In any case, I've saved the wing construction for last, so I can think about how (and whether) to go about the split-wing hack.

The build is progressing again, after a critical infrastructure upgrade in my shop. A sheet of Homasote, cut to size, covers a 30" x 72" table from Staples. This replaces two smaller benches (of unequal height) that I've had in there up 'till now.

Tailfeathers were mostly finished a few days ago, and as of this evening I have the two fuselage sides done. By this time tomorrow the fuselage will be in some sort of 3D shape. I extended the nose of the fuselage by three inches, to buy a bit of leeway with CG balancing.

I find the plans rather hard to decipher as far as the windshield area goes, so I left that bit un-done until I figure it out. I'm thinking of making the front/top fuselage section removable for battery access.
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Old May 11, 2012, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrazell View Post
The last Quaker I put together,the fourth, I did a two piece wing but made two pieces by dividing the wing at a point between the center section and tip.Thisget the joiner away from the high load area.The joiner is carbonfiber rod in bras tubing and a dowel rod locator pin.The carbon main joiner is located at the spar and the pin toward the TE.You could use this method and make it a three piece wing to keep the sectionc even smaller.
I had to read this a few times before I understood it. I'd never considered this approach but it's clever. I'm not sure how you get a two piece wing out of it, but a three piece wing might be the ticket. It gets around the problem of making the connections/joints at angles, and lessens the stress on the connections as well.
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Old May 11, 2012, 01:17 PM
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I use a hatch on the bottom just forward of the aft gear block held on with a tab on the front and tiny magnets on the rear.
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Old May 11, 2012, 07:54 PM
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As far as power for the 84" quaker the group I fly with have 5 quakers and all are powered by BPHobbies BP U 3520-6 motors,60 Amp ESC's(BP again) Turnegy 3000mah 4s batteriesusing either 12x6 or 13x6 props.On the 13x6 a 5 pound quaker will go verticle.Most motor runs are less than 30 seconds.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 11:48 PM
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I think.... I have a Quaker????...My Dad Passed...but was building this, and Im not completly sure what it is...BUT I love it..and is built GREAT.....all seems built already..even the wire gear...needs covering tho'...and He built for gas motor...but I would love to convert to electric..

any tips appreciated....this is on a 5 foot sofa....I didnt haul wings out or tail feathers out for this pic. Also...has no aileron...seems to be stab/rudder only perhaps I should modify that...as It is not coverd yet????

Not sure AUW yet...but am hoping perhaps this motor might work...if the plane is around 5 pounds....
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 08:47 PM
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It is a Quaker and it is not supposed to have ailerons. It flys just fine without them. have you looked at the plans? It should tell you who designed it. Is it a kit or scratch built? What span will it have?
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 09:04 PM
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Just measured it @ 83 1/2" wingspan...and it was scratch I think...AsI have found rib templates....I have found No Plans tho'....but all the building is complete...just needs covering...and hardware added...even the wire gear is finished.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 09:44 PM
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More Of the Parts

Threw the Transmitter in for size referance
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:56 PM
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Interesting that he re-engineered it to have removable wings, I'd be interested in close-ups of how he was doing that. Also interesting he sheeted the leading edges of the wings. The rest is all normal Quaker, should be an awesome flying plane. Fly it in honor of your dad, looks lik ehe was a pretty good modeler.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 05:30 PM
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WIng Pix

Here are a few pix of the wing...all are imbededded brass tubeing...a few are even threaded ( am thinking they are for alignment pins ) I have all the rods somewhere...in a box I have not unpacked yet...anyway hope they explain enough

The middle section slids forward and dowls pegs and nylon bolts hold wing to fueslage..also, Covering is still over the holes in the root sectoin..but they are there.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 08:09 PM
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Neat, holes for the spars and then thread spots to put wing bolts in. Very nice.
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