|Jun 30, 2012, 05:26 PM|
United States, TX, Houston
Joined May 2012
|Jun 30, 2012, 05:59 PM|
MAG718, I just use standard Aircraft Acro mode for my V911 with 9x, no need what so ever to use a Heli Mode.
As SG Mason said, use Dual rates and Expo as you see fit,
On mine Throttle stays 100% no Expo
Other channels Expo is -25
Low rates are 68% on Aileron and Elevator, Rudder is 58%
High rates are 100 across the board for outdoor flight.
End point Limits are +/- 90 percent or Servo travel is past its
usable limit really.
Had to reverse elevator channel on mine as well.
I use ER9X firmware so yours maybe slightly different.
|Jun 30, 2012, 06:01 PM|
I'm looking for these infos :
-KV of main motor
-teeth number for pinion and main gear
-any idea about rpm of the main rotor?
results will give me an idea for testing a rotor tachymeter
|Jun 30, 2012, 06:31 PM|
United States, PA
Joined Dec 2011
It's pinion is: 7
The 9958 has a main gear of: 74
It's pinion is: 8
The mSR has a main gear of 64
It's pinion is: 8
Maybe Monday for tachometer reading.
Never heard of a KV rating for these brushed motors, RPM and Voltage likely vary too much between motors anyway.
|Jun 30, 2012, 06:35 PM|
|Jul 01, 2012, 01:16 AM|
Joined Jun 2012
|Jul 01, 2012, 02:29 AM|
Joined Dec 2011
so i guess the yellow clone of the clone isnt any better than v911?
most yellow users mentioned it's sluggish, thus feeling heavy dispite weighing only .53g more
one did however mentioned it's able to hold its tail well almost throughout whole flight
|Jul 01, 2012, 03:03 AM|
Australia, QLD, Kangaroo Point
Joined Mar 2012
The positives, nice build quality, some improvements ie detachable tail boom plus others mentioned, mine is very stable and precise, good for a beginner from 3 to 4 channels, the yellow one just about flies itself, even more so that the "normal" 911.
The negatives, outside flight is not as good, slower and shorter flight times ( I suspect the yellow ones motor is not as strong, it really needs the 145 batteries ) not as nimble, less agro.
I have just placed an order with BG for some 150 batteries plus other bits and pieces. I suspect it really needs the extra power of the 150's to improve outdoor flight, if anyone has the yellow clone and 150 batteries post up your opinion.
At the end of the day if you have to replace the canopy, flight bar and blades from the v911 to make it fly with the speed of the 911 there is no point buying it other than if you fly indoors in a restricted area, as mentioned they are, or at least mine is super stable and very precise / predictable.
|Jul 01, 2012, 03:14 AM|
Cool. Can you examine closely to see if the yellow heli vibrates while hovering? The vibrations may be very slight and can only tell by looking at the skids. If they appear blur, that means the heli is experiencing high frequency vibrations.
|Jul 01, 2012, 03:15 AM|
Joined Sep 2007
I did some weight comparisons between my O/B original and my new yellow one.
Weights without batteries.
O/B Canopy 2.5g
Yellow canopy 3.0g
So, it looks like much of the extra weight might be in the canopy.
I expected some savings as it appears to have a CF main shaft.
The flybars, while different physically, but both weigh in at 2.0g
The yellow flybar weights are physically larger, but must be a different alloy (they are less magnetic than the ones in the old flybar).
The near weight is an original, the far is the flybar from my new yellow one.
|Jul 01, 2012, 03:52 AM|
Joined Sep 2007
Stiffening the stock flybar to eliminate flybar strikes
While I didn't eliminate them, they are much harder to reproduce, and less dramatic. With a minor tweak to my design, I think you could totally eliminate them.
Carefully cut a 3" piece of spare tail boom stock.
I used 2" and I think 3" would make all the difference in the world.
Mark the center of the beam
Taper both ends (wedge shape) in the same downward direction, using a file.
Use spare flybar, or remove yours.
Carefully file the "top" of the center piece. Mine had some mold flash.
The goal is to create a nice flat spot to rest the CF beam on to.
The side of the flybar with the angle gussets is the top.
Lay the beam - centered - across the top of the flybar
Tightly tape both ends to the flybar, leaving the center exposed.
Carefully apply CA and let it wick between the rod/beam, being careful not to get it on th ball link balls or pivot pin hole.
Once dry, remove the tape.
I wrapped mine with thread (Michaels craft store bead thread - nice, very thin braid - very strong).
Clove hitch near the ball link. Two wraps around the ball link and hold with thumb.
Pull clove hit tight and wrap tightly to end of rod. I ended by sticking he last wrap end between the rod and box.
Remove the wrap around the ball link.
Now carefully appy glue (thinner the better) between the bar and box, saturating the thread. Be careful to not get any on the ball links
When dry, trim and repeat on other side.
You may need to lighty file or sand the center pivot area on both sides to ensure it pivots ok. I also had to use an excto tip to ream out the ends of the screw hole a tiny bit.
I used a wide tip sharpie to color the white thread black to match things up.
Now as to flying. If you deflet the flybar by hand, it is completely rigid until the end of the CF box. No more limp noodle dnagling flyba. With enuogh force, the piece after the rod can deflect down to the canopy.
A 3" piece would make contact extremely difficult.
After the fix, the flybar weighed in at 2,3g.
I don't think the CF box has added a significant enough air drag so as to shorten flight times noticeably.
Flight characterics may have changed after the mod. If so, I can't tell whther it's better or worse. If you have a spare tail boom, spare flybar, some thread and CA, why not give it a try,
You might give this a try.
And buy a "new" canopy (aliexpres firecabbage has them) - they are lower profile and seem to suffer less strikes
IN the right hand picture you may be able to make out my helper Shadow. He likes to participate in all things related to my helicopters.
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