Originally Posted by Buck Shot

What exit hole??

....the one at the bottom of the fuzz.

S.

Oh, one more thing, Stuart: all six of my pushrods were 1/2" too long. I had to cut some off and put bends in them in order to make connections.

BTW discussion on balancing: the balance point in the directions is bang on! A smidgeon aft of the wire channel. They got that right. Tex.

Originally Posted by stuart warne

....the one at the bottom of the fuzz.

S.

Found it!! Maybe I need glasses!! Never noticed it before!!

Our factory did visually, but if you actually measure that distance from the wire channel to the L/E, its between 45-55mm, not 71mm as stated. I have asked for this to be corrected.

S.

Originally Posted by stuart warne

Our factory did visually, but if you actually measure that distance from the wire channel to the L/E, its between 45-55mm, not 71mm as stated. I have asked for this to be corrected.

S.

Granted, but the drawing in the instructions lists the distance not from the leading edge of the wing, but from the front of the wing attachment. So if you change the numbers, be sure to change the drawing as well. Tex.

Originally Posted by Sabrejock

Granted, but the drawing in the instructions lists the distance not from the leading edge of the wing, but from the front of the wing attachment. So if you change the numbers, be sure to change the drawing as well. Tex.

Good point Saberjock!

Thanks for the reviews everyone. I went ahead and ordered one with an orangerx 3-axis stabilizer that is on backorder so it will be a while before I get it. Sounds like venting for the esc is a good idea but mine should be upgraded according to Stuart. I assumed the brake would already be set up on a plug and play model with a folder prop and I would like to know how to set it as well but then again mine will probably be different. I was kind of worried to see the issues with the twisted fuses after I ordered but hopefully its not an issue. I will still need to order some batteries from the USA warehouse, are you guys using the 1800's or 2200's?

I checked with my stock model the other day. I can see no discernible 'twist' in the alignment of the tail, please all just check the tail for alignment when you glue it on.

2200mah 3s lipo is ideal, but I managed to fit in a 2650 3s lipo right in between the two servo's.

I have just used a generic procedure for setting the brake. This is on a post-back-order model. The ESC heat sink is NOT the ribbed one, but try it anyway.

1. Switch on the transmitter and push the throttle stick to full throttle.

2. Connect the battery to the ESC, and if you have one, turn on the receiver switch.

3. Wait to hear settup tone, and

4. Pull throttle to "off" within five seconds.

To check the brake, disconnect the battery and re-connect with the throttle at "off". Apply power and then select power off, the motor should brake.

Worked for me, Tex.

Tex.

Originally Posted by Sabrejock

I have just used a generic procedure for setting the brake. This is on a post-back-order model. The ESC heat sink is NOT the ribbed one, but try it anyway.

1. Switch on the transmitter and push the throttle stick to full throttle.

2. Connect the battery to the ESC, and if you have one, turn on the receiver switch.

3. Wait to hear settup tone, and

4. Pull throttle to "off" within five seconds.

To check the brake, disconnect the battery and re-connect with the throttle at "off". Apply power and then select power off, the motor should brake.

Worked for me, Tex.

Tex.

Good news! Thanks you Sabrejock

This might be obvious to everyone, but make sure you check your heat sink on the ESC. Mine just fell off!( just from normal use. No hard landings or anything )
I was just about to go for another flight and noticed that the heatsink was wonky. Lucky I did cause I don't think the ESC would have survived the next flight without it.

The first ESC's must have had heat shrink over the entire heat sink and when some people started having cooling issues, HK decided to trim the heat shrink from around the cooling fins.( I'm speculating ) They must have trimmed a little too much from mine, as it was just the 4 corners of the heat sink were under the heat shrink.
and holding it on.
I'm going to pull mine out and devise a new plan to secure it on.
Maybe on the later one, it won't be an issue.

Just checked mine. It had the heat shrink removed over the fins by HK.
I grabbed and pulled lightly and the heat sink pulled right off.
It's attached to the FETs with double sided conductive tape.
My first thought is to simply wrap tape around the ends to hold it firmly to the esc. Without covering up too much of the heat sink of course.

Actually, I may just pop a 30 or 40A in it and be done with it.

I stuck a 40a in mine, no problems since.

Originally Posted by IFlyRCs

Just checked mine. It had the heat shrink removed over the fins by HK.
I grabbed and pulled lightly and the heat sink pulled right off.
It's attached to the FETs with double sided conductive tape.
My first thought is to simply wrap tape around the ends to hold it firmly to the esc. Without covering up too much of the heat sink of course.

Actually, I may just pop a 30 or 40A in it and be done with it.

Yeah, I put a cable tie around either end as a temp fix at the field, but I will re-visit it again.

what size is the prop and shaft for the spinner