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Old May 04, 2015, 09:01 PM
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HI Roddie, I've been thinking about this a little. Fibreglassing both sides of the balsa will help keep it shape better than just doing the outside. I would suggest on the outside 2 layers of probably 2oz cloth laid on a bias. It would be best to do both layers at once to help bind them together and use less resin. The inside could easily be done later. This should help give good strong doors without making them too heavy.

Have fun, Graham
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Old May 05, 2015, 10:15 PM
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Thanks guys for all your support

Bruce I hope your venture into the business world turns OK for you. The work you do is fantastic but people are fickle. A problem is an acceptable price, but at this time (particularly in Australia) prices are ridiculously low and you do not get fair reward for the required effort.

Rupert my 'shed' is a small corner in the garage that is smaller if I drive in too far. So just a long thin bench and a car up the backside, that I use as table to lay out the BT plans.

Graham how is the study going, I did mine part time so I have a good appreciation of what you are going through. Lot of hard work but worth it in the end. As for the fiber glassing, I used a 24 g per sqM and just laid it one cover square. Major OOOpps as once I removed the formers it changed shape. So I will try your idea next time. I will take some photos and post later.

Rob I will have to buy a cheap plane soon to get the flying practice and run in the motors as this is my return to modelling. So I do not have the problem of several planes (yet).

Finally the house looking is over for a while, thought we found one but to many problems. So next year is a good time to start again.

Again many thanks for your support

all the best to you all. Rod
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Old May 10, 2015, 09:45 AM
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Thank you Roddie; Well I thought you guys might like this.
The canoes maiden voyage was yesterday, it was really fun and we had quite a few people checking Serenity (the canoe) out; we paddled about two miles today on the upper Patapsco river MD St. park, Daniels area.

Bruce
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Old May 12, 2015, 02:04 AM
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Mossie Wing Build

Bruce looking good and great to see you looking so fit and healthy . The canoe "Serenity" looks great on the water would have loved to have a go in my younger days but my bones creak to much now. Beautiful, enjoy

Continued with the build still concentrating on the under-carriage doors. I thought to have a look around and found that the original Mossie used to have problems with the doors being too flimsy and started to open (with the slipstream) and in a high speed dive had the potential to break away with extremely bad results. smashed into the tail plane.
So I have tried a different tack by creating a series of formers to strengthen the doors together with Graham's idea of the 2oz cloth laid on a bias.
The photo show a bit of progress, and I will paste later how badly my first door have twisted.
All Best Rod .
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Old May 12, 2015, 01:39 PM
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What a fantastic looking place Bruce! You are lucky to have access to a place like this. Love the name 'serenity' it sums up the scene perfectly
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Old May 12, 2015, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rupert the bear View Post
What a fantastic looking place Bruce! You are lucky to have access to a place like this. Love the name 'serenity' it sums up the scene perfectly
Thank You Rupert that's one of many here in Maryland; we have a great deal of water fresh and salt.

Bruce
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Old May 21, 2015, 01:37 AM
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Under-carriage doors

Hi guys I have continued with the doors and the photos show the progress. I have used two sheets of 0.8 MM then will cover with the fiber glass.

Been checking the net for the Mossie under-carriage design and steadily firming up my design. Must get it on to paper One thing I found was a Mossie "F" for Freddy. went through the war as a bomber and two days under the end they decided to lap the airport and hit a large steel pole. The photo shows the major part of the plane that was left.

All best Rod
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Old May 27, 2015, 01:27 AM
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Mossie Under Carriage

Hi Guys Have progressed a bit more and finished the first part of applying the two thin skins (bonded together) for the under Carriage doors. Have lightly sanded and ready to fiber glass them. I am now looking at the hinge points and how to attach the doors to the hinge and where. Two far back and the doors will tilt at a weird angle and too far forward and have no support for the rear half. Finally have found the design for the hinges and make them soon. (Have a house job the do- must keep the wife happy).

Been looking on the net for ideas to provide the 43 mm movement required to raise and lower the undercarriage, and found a Lado screw-jack. Might not use the product but the method. Bruce I will try to make my own and I might need your help on the electronics to Start, Stop and reverse.

All the best Rod
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Old May 28, 2015, 10:29 PM
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I got micro switches on Amazon for the start & stop there cheep on Amazon; When making the worm / jack screw try and use two types of metal brass / stainless if you use a nut and white Lithium grease.

Your doors look great / I looked in the build room today; but I really won't have any time for hobby for quite some time; were in the process of getting the company name legal and also setting up our own web site, I wasn't planning on all of this but life has a funny way of making us do things to survive.

Keep up the good work and ask any questions I'll try to be helpful.

Bruce
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Old Yesterday, 10:11 PM
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Roddie:

Very nice workmanship on your Mossie!

I don't know if this helps or not, but I have a couple of photos of the gear door hinges on the full size Mosquito. The hinges are offset, so that when the door opens, the edge nearest the hinge actually moves to the outside of the nacelle, and then moves upward as the door opens fully (after it clears the edge of the nacelle). Check the attached photos. I made my hinges like the ones in these photos, and the doors work great. They look right when open and I have had no problems with binding while opening /closing. Getting the hinge pin location and the attach point on the door in the right places is a little tricky, but can be done properly with a little trial and error, then correct. The most important thing is to fit the hinges to the door while the door is closed to ensure a proper fit when closed (work one door at a time).

Tom
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Old Yesterday, 11:17 PM
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Thanks Bruce I will be asking many questions as I get very serious about building (will not be long now) the under-carriage get right into the nuts and bolts of the design.

Currently I been working on exactly how the doors works work. I drawn it out many times with differing ideas but did not like any of them. They always seemed to have potential but !!!! BT drawing is most unhelpful. Finally found a guy on YOUTUBE who had the same problem and had a work around.
But thanks Tom for your suggestions and photos, I can now see how it really works. I had wondered about the back edge of the door flapping but I can see that they spring mounted it closed. So back to the drawing board with a lot more confidence in a final solution.

With this build I always have a feeling of redeveloping the wheel, as my final solution always seem to end up based on the real Mosquito. Perhaps because always works.

Thanks Bruce and Tom for your assistance, most helpful

All best Rod
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