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Old Sep 25, 2015, 07:29 PM
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Proper Solder and Flux for Aluminum Lipo tabs?

Which solder and flux should I purchase to solder aluminum lipo tabs with a temperature adjustable Weller soldering iron capable of 850*F?

What alloy is the proper solder to use for adhering to aluminum?

Are there any solder alloys to avoid soldering aluminum?

Is the Aluminum Flux the most important part of the equation?

I would like to know from first hand experience which products to buy, and from where to get a quality bond please.

Any tips to make the soldering process better would be helpful if you have done this before.

Thanks!

I have searched, Need specific products that are known to work properly from first hand experience for this application.
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Old Sep 25, 2015, 10:18 PM
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Took almost 5 seconds to find this on the Internet. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering www.wikihow.com/Solder-Aluminum Don't know how accurate it is but EAA homebuilt airplane builders have been soldering/brazing/welding aluminum for years. Keith
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Old Sep 25, 2015, 10:32 PM
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Here is a link to aluminum solder and within the link there is a flux available from the same supplier. http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/e...older-500.aspx
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Old Sep 25, 2015, 11:58 PM
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You actually don't need anything special at all to do it. I've done it for years with the exact same equipment that I use for electronics work. You do need a little help with technique though. Here's what you need to do:

Get the stuff you want to solder cleaned with a bit of sandpaper or whatever in the spot you need to solder it. This will knock down the oxide layer so it's very thin (aluminum oxidizes on exposure to air nearly instantly, so the best you can do is make the layer as thin as possible). Some guys like to use liquid flux or some light oil while they abrade to keep the oxide layer from coming back, but this isn't necessary. After you have everything cleaned and positioned, fire up the soldering iron and get a good sized blob of solder melted on the tip. I suggest a large tip for thick aluminum work, as it wicks heat away fast. If it's only an aluminum tab a regular tip will be fine.

Apply the tip and blob to the work where you want to solder, and use a scraping motion along with a little pressure (usually about the same pressure as one might use when using a pencil eraser will do it) to scrape the oxide layer away while the surface is covered with the solder blob. The layer will be scraped away and the solder will tin the surface. If you are joining two aluminum parts together, you should individually tin both parts, then afterward join them together. If attaching copper to aluminum, tin the aluminum using this method, then solder the copper to the aluminum just like you would normally for a copper/copper joint.

Have fun, and report back on how it goes.
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Old Sep 26, 2015, 08:08 AM
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https://www.google.com/search?q=sold...utf-8&oe=utf-8

Practice on tabs from an Al soda can.
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Old Sep 26, 2015, 02:08 PM
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Has anyone here actually done this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rotarypower101 View Post
Need specific products that are known to work properly from first hand experience for this application.

I can solder with the best of them, thats not the issue.

I require the proper products to make a easy quality job of it, and to reduce the amount of heat soak needed to tin the surface of the tab.

I believe there is a specific alloy, tin/zinc that works better for this, I think there may be an issue using a Pb based 60/40 and I believe there is a specific aluminum flux that helps get the bonding to activate quickly.

I would like some good ideas about how to limit heat traveling from the tab to the PVC lipo casing. Thinking maybe clamping to the tab to prevent heat transfer?

And just to be clear, we are NOT brazing or using a torch of any kind...

This needs to be done at low temperatures ~500*F
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Old Sep 26, 2015, 02:38 PM
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http://www.messerwelding.com/Product...t/MG%20460.pdf
This is the stuff I use and seems to work very well.
Comes with the solder and a small bottle of flux.
Bought it at a local welding supply shop.
Also know that some cells come with one side of the tab plated with nickel, so ordinary solder works on these. To look at it, you couldn't tell it was plated. the only way to tell is, try tinning both sides with lead/flux filled solder. If it tins, your lucky.
Gord
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Old Sep 26, 2015, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flypaper 2 View Post
http://www.messerwelding.com/Product...t/MG%20460.pdf
This is the stuff I use and seems to work very well.
Comes with the solder and a small bottle of flux.
Bought it at a local welding supply shop.
Also know that some cells come with one side of the tab plated with nickel, so ordinary solder works on these. To look at it, you couldn't tell it was plated. the only way to tell is, try tinning both sides with lead/flux filled solder. If it tins, your lucky.
Gord

I have, and I am not lucky unfortunatly...

Any idea how liberal we can be with the plastic containers to avoid issues with delimitation from the tabs due to heat damage?

I would much rather ask and learn from those that have struggled through to understand, than ruin items if a little patience and understanding can get me there successfully .
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