Warps induced to be straight sometimes come back to haunt you. Redo it-you'll be happier.

Will acetone (or CA disbonder) break the bond easily? If so, I'd remove it and glue it back.

Frank

yeah debonder removed it. It still seemed a little warped. Have it pinned down and glued back on now. Will let it sit for a while then see how it is.

The LE doesn't rest flush with the board so that is why I picked it up. Just used some scraps under it this time to hold it up.

Robert

Removed the LE and glued back on. Helped a little. Got to glue some aluminumum tubing in and a couple other knick knacks then I can work on the bottom wing.

I'm pretty sure once the wing is covered and attached to the bottom wing the slight warp should be gone. It is pretty light anyway.

Robert

I just got the same Trittle Fleet short kit, have not started yet, I will be watching this post with great interest.

Thanks! I haven't been on it in a while. Adding an extra workbench today so hopefully I can get back on it this week.

Robert

Originally Posted by captainborg

I just got the same Trittle Fleet short kit, have not started yet, I will be watching this post with great interest.

Making "Bows": Make a bending forms out of shipping carton or foam board. Cover edges smoothly with masking tape. Soak weighted-down balsa strips in bathtub for a number of hours. CYA ends of two strips together about 1/2 inch. Tape end to form. Pull inner strip around form and tape at other end. Apply Elmer's wood glue to inner strip and pull outer strip around inner strip and tape to end of form. Let dry completely. You could use CYA to speed things up but it's nasty to work with, sticks to fingers, hard to sand smooth. If you crack, but not break balsa strip, "cheat" and finsh joining or start over. When repairing "munched" wing tip bows, I usually cheat and make standard wing tip sections from sheet balsa. Practice makes nearly perfect.
Laminated balsa and glue are quite sturdy.