Hi everyone,

I've decided to build a quadcopter.
I've read through a fair bit of these forums and other websites and i think i'm ready to start buying components.

I'd like some input from all the lovely experience people on these forums before I start spending hard earned dollars =)

Here is my parts list
Controller:
Paris Classic V4 from MultiWiiCopter
http://www.multiwiicopter.com/produc...lc-plug-n-play

Motors:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...tor_200w_.html

ESC:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ontroller.html

Battery:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._3S1P_40C.html

ESC programming card:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ming_Card.html

Props: (Not too sure about these)
http://montorc.com/epp1045.aspx

Frame:
I'll build my own. Aluminium rods and square sections etc from hardware stores.

Am I missing anything? I'm fairly sure the battery and motors are suited to each other. I'm aiming to build something around 500-600mm MTM. Seems to be the average size of these things capable enough to lift something.

Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated. Ive read through these threads already.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1174262
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1097355
Lots of great info there.

>>Here is my parts list
Controller:<<

Looked like you have done your homework. That's a pretty good list.

>>Paris Classic V4 from MultiWiiCopter
http://www.multiwiicopter.com/produc...lc-plug-n-play<<

Good choice.

>>Motors:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...tor_200w_.html<<

Good motors.

>>ESC:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ontroller.html<<

The speed controller of choice.

>>Battery:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._3S1P_40C.html<<

You may want to consider a bit more capacity. For the size of multi rotor you are looking at with the components I would go as high as 3,000 mah. Minimum 2,650 mah.

>>ESC programming card:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ming_Card.html<<

That helps.

>>Props: (Not too sure about these)
http://montorc.com/epp1045.aspx<<

Don't mess around. Just go with some APC 10 X 4.7 slow flyer props. If you like those soft props at least get the genuine Gaui 10" X 4.5" I have read too many people having the EPP breaking in flight.

>>Frame:
I'll build my own. Aluminium rods and square sections etc from hardware stores. <<

That's where you may not want to do quite yet. Just because it looks easy it is not quite that simple to just hack together a frame and go fly. There are quite a bit of thoughts that go into designing a frame.

Frames are not expensive. If this is your first time at least get something that is tried and true before you start to "design" your own. Otherwise you may come up with a bloated pig that doesn't fly even if you have all the nice components.

>>I'm aiming to build something around 500-600mm MTM. Seems to be the average size of these things capable enough to lift something.<<

If you build that large with parts from the hardware store you may get so heavy that you cannot lift up anything.

http://www.blueskyrc.com/index.php?m...products_id=14

http://www.radicalrc.com/category/Quad-Copter-458

http://www.shop.aglhobbiesllc.com/Ru...P1-Frame-Kits/

Take a look at these frames. They are fairly inexpensive and you are guarantee to come in a certain size, weight, rigidity and strength that will fly.

Believe me, I have been building and flying RC for over 40 years. I am very capable of building my own frame. For that matter I have build a few frames of my own. However it is so much simpler to build a frame that is made so nicely by some professional. You are of course welcome to modify it and make it as individual as you want. I do that all the time.

By the time you spend the money and effort to make your own frame you would not have saved a single dime. Of course unless you have a full machine shop in your garage.

i think the same as my friend SeismicCWave, build your own frame may be more expensive than you think... anyway i think for first time rc user its ok.. because you will crash soon... may be you must consider a strong but heavy frame at first .. and when you take plenty control go for lighter and more pro (but fragile) frame...
PD: aluminum will bend at crash...

Hi inquisitorsz

I agree with SeismicCWave that a nice frame really looks the part. I'll probably get a scarab in due course (cos they're local, in Qld).

But if you are keen on rolling your own, be aware that the smallest alu square tube available in Oz is 12.7mm (the old 1/2 inch). I picked up some from Capral at about $13 (for a whopping 6.5m length - enough to repair damaged frames many times over). I'm doing it basically for the fun of scratch building. And the only shop tool I have is a drill press . (I really want a CNC for Christmas but I doubt my wife would understand!)

Weight wise my tighta**e frame comes to about 240g for 50cm MTM. Centre parts consist of metal discs from old hard drives (or you can order fibreglass ones from the many shops online). By the time it's all done it'll probably weigh in at about 700 - 800g.

SeismicCwave - Thanks the great review of the collection of DIY components. I've been doing research similar to Inquisitorsz and REALLY appreciate the tips from one who's been there.

Thanks everyone for your advice.
I just put in my hobbyking order.

Ended up getting bigger batteries 4000mAh. They we almost the same price and in stock at the AUS warehouse.
In hindsight i should have got one big battery and one small one in case 4000 is too much.

Got the APC 10x4.7 props instead. Bought and extra pair.

I also changed the motors to Turnigy Park450 890Kv since they seem quite similar and were in stock whereas my other ones were not.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14397
4mm shaft on these ones instead of 3mm

As for the frame - like rocketheli - i'll knock up a cheap easy frame to learn with and for the fun of actually building it.
I also have access to a full workshop with lathes and mills. I'm an engineer so i'll probably draw up all my components in 3D first to make sure everything fits etc.
Worst case the frame doesnt work and all I've wasted is a few bucks and some time =)

Thanks everyone again for your input its been very handy.

I'll add to this post when i start building

Don't forget to order a bunch of wire, different awg, bullet plugs and heat shrinks. I always seem to be missing one of these!!!!

>>Ended up getting bigger batteries 4000mAh. They we almost the same price and in stock at the AUS warehouse.
In hindsight i should have got one big battery and one small one in case 4000 is too much. <<

That will be fine.

>>Got the APC 10x4.7 props instead. Bought and extra pair. <<

You will never have enough.

>>I also changed the motors to Turnigy Park450 890Kv since they seem quite similar and were in stock whereas my other ones were not.<<

I have flying some Turnigy Park 480s right now and I really like them.

>>4mm shaft on these ones instead of 3mm<<

The motors come with propellers adapter so you will be fine. The propeller adapter shaft is 6 mm.

>>I also have access to a full workshop with lathes and mills. I'm an engineer so i'll probably draw up all my components in 3D first to make sure everything fits etc.
Worst case the frame doesnt work and all I've wasted is a few bucks and some time =)<<

If you have a machine shop then you should have no problem. Just remember don't over built. A lighter machine always flies better than a heavy one.

keep it simple, easily repairable and light. even for experienced heli guys, it can take a few crashes to get all the bugs worked out.

Originally Posted by inquisitorsz

Got the APC 10x4.7 props instead. Bought and extra pair.

Who did you get them from?

Originally Posted by rocketheli

Who did you get them from?

From this place
http://www.rctoys.com/rc-toys-and-pa...ROPELLERS.html
Come as a set and they ship to AUS.
Think I paid about $30 for 3 pairs inc postage.

I only ordered this all this stuff today so I cant comment bout the store or the products just yet

On another note: What does SF and SFP stand for regarding props? Are both terms interchangable?

Originally Posted by inquisitorsz

On another note: What does SF and SFP stand for regarding props? Are both terms interchangable?

SF = Slow Flyer. For counter clockwise rotation viewing from the top.
SFP = Slow Flyer Pusher. For clockwise rotation viewing from the top.