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Old Feb 14, 2013, 03:18 PM
ERS....Energy Retention System
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
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Congratulations Charles.... Well done.

Now hurry up and build one....I want to see it doing 200mph..

Tim
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 06:08 PM
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Brazil, SC, Florianopolis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timbuck View Post
Congratulations Charles.... Well done.

Now hurry up and build one....I want to see it doing 200mph..

Tim
Thanks Tim!

A made a movie tutorial today.

It has subtitles in portuguese for now.

I am working on the translation to English and will publish as soon as it gets ready.

Vectus Racer - Construção do molde principal (4 min 17 sec)



Charles
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Last edited by charlespereira; May 21, 2013 at 10:06 PM. Reason: Changed the video link
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 06:59 PM
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Glendale,Az.
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Charles, You should be proud of the work you put into the Vectus, it should perform Well.

Doug
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougmontgomery View Post
Charles, You should be proud of the work you put into the Vectus, it should perform Well.

Doug
Thank you Doug!

I did a new video, now with subtitles in English!

Vectus Racer - Wing and fuselage mold making tutorial (4 min 16 sec)


Hope you enjoy!

Charles
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 05:34 PM
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Polishing the mold

Today sanded the mold with granulation until 2000 and then I polish with polishing paste.

The thermostat for the stove has arrived and I've done the installation of wires.

Tomorrow I'll do a test with the seal for the vacuum bag.
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 04:48 PM
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Painting the molds

Hello folks!

Today I had access to my air compressor that is at my parents house.

So, I painted the molds with white Polyurethane.

I will have to wait for several days until I can make the first layup.

I hope that the resin will stick on the paint.
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 05:06 PM
ERS....Energy Retention System
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
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Waiting a few days is good , the paint will harden and you will get a better Finnish.
BUT I do advise you the wet sand back of paint with 400grit just the take the shine off the paint.
It you don't your epoxy will NOT stick to it and you have a big mess to clean up.
do it on the same day your laying up.

Looking forward to the results..

Tim
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timbuck View Post
Waiting a few days is good , the paint will harden and you will get a better Finnish.
BUT I do advise you the wet sand back of paint with 400grit just the take the shine off the paint.
It you don't your epoxy will NOT stick to it and you have a big mess to clean up.
do it on the same day your laying up.

Looking forward to the results..

Tim
Thanks Tim!

The paint is over the PVA. I'm afraid that the wet sanding can dissolve the PVA.

I was thinking about use thinner to clean the paint. Does it work too?

Charles
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 06:37 PM
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Charles, if you have Pvaed the mold before paint, so the paint will release after the layup is completed, that sounds great. The edge of your mold that is not painted still needs pvaed, then scuff up the paint you just painted with 320 wet or dry and then proceed with your lay-up. This will allow your epoxy layup to adhere to the fresh white paint.

Doug
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 06:49 PM
ERS....Energy Retention System
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
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Just do it dry that will be fine , the only reason to do it wet is that it helps the paper to not build up with sanded paint.
Or being carful ,using a spunge just stay away for the LE , and just do it damp not really wet and you should have any drama's.

Tim
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 12:17 PM
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Thanks Doug and Tim!

I want to start the lamination tomorrow!

I suppose that the fiberglass should be flush cut to the mold half. I never did that way and don't know exactly how to do it.

I am going to use vacuum to let it curing on the hot box. So, if I leave excess of fiberglass, it will be bended on the mold corner.

Is there an easy way to cut the glass on the right size?

Is it ok to use small pieces of fiberglass on the fuselage and make them overlap on the center? I mean, align the tissue with the mold edge on each side and let the little excess overlap on the center of the mold.

I believe that on the wings it should be a bit easier, letting the excess of fiberglass on the trailing edge.

I hope I have made myself clear. Sometimes it is not easy to find the correct words in English. :-)

Thanks!
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 12:23 PM
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You will need to make a pattern that fits the mold with a piece of wax paper, vacuum bag material and suck it down on the half and then mark.

Use the pattern to cut your fabric or a new rigid pattern for longevity.

cut some 2 ounce and check for fit, trim as needed.

Not sure how you are going to seam but you will cut the opposite side .375-.500" longer in fuse the area, maybe .250" around the LE leave top and bottom skins a little longer At the TE.

Will be challenging for sure.

You will need several layers for your schedule.

doug
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 03:24 PM
ERS....Energy Retention System
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
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Also paper works very well to make template.

I always trim after v-bagging. I Finnish heavier cloth just short of the mold flange , and only have viel cloth or 2oz to trim off.
This by far the quickest easyst way , also you get a perfect parting plane line.

And I thing joining you plane won't be to hard. The wing part will be normal easy.
And I'd just do strip joins for the fuse. You could let them gel off for a while , and then run a small bead of spooge along them and join.
Or
Run a balloon... It would be easy to modify the front of you mold a little to allow you to do it. This is how I would do it , as they are easy and you get a perfect , light strong seam.

Tim
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 05:02 PM
Just fly it!
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Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
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The easiest way to make a template is to cover the mold with strips of masking tape, trim it flush with the mold edge, pull it out, stick it to your template material, and cut/sand the template stock to the edge of the tape. I like 1/8" plywood for templates.
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Old Mar 11, 2013, 04:25 AM
I am actually really slow
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Brisbane
Joined Jun 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
The easiest way to make a template is to cover the mold with strips of masking tape, trim it flush with the mold edge, pull it out, stick it to your template material, and cut/sand the template stock to the edge of the tape. I like 1/8" plywood for templates.
+1, but I cover the plug in tape instead, to avoid getting tape residue on the moulds. Works well either way. In the mould is probably the easier way though, will be easier to find your seam lines.
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