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Old Feb 04, 2012, 03:02 PM
I DS slower than I build!
Cory's Avatar
Idaho Falls
Joined Jul 2006
2,336 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by seefest View Post
West System is definately the way to go.

Bummer about the mast. The one I got originally with my kit was warped as well. Was your's in two peices and had to be scarfed together? Mine was, but I built that boat over 10 years ago. I did the same as you and it straghtened it OK.

I drill carbon tube all the time. I get pultruded graphite tubes from a kite supply shop.
I never wrap it in line as I don't like the way it looks and I have found it unecessary.
A great way to attach shrouds to a mast is using internal tangs. Drill a hole where you want the shroud to go, Take an extra long peice of rigging wire, and thread it into the hole and up to the top of the mast.(before crane goes on). Then take a wire crimp and crimp the end of the wire. Now pull it back into the mast and the crimp keeps the wire from pulling out. Nice clean way to attach shrouds.
Yeah, my mast is two part with a scarf joint. The shorter upper portion is only slightly warped. It's the lower portion that is bad.

When you get a chance could you either post some photos or point me to some existing ones of how you are attaching shroud lines? No hurry. It will probably be a couple months before I get to that point. Much of the water around here is frozen. I'm hoping to get it in the water in late April or May.
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 11:21 PM
I DS slower than I build!
Cory's Avatar
Idaho Falls
Joined Jul 2006
2,336 Posts
Thanks, those photos help.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 08:50 AM
I DS slower than I build!
Cory's Avatar
Idaho Falls
Joined Jul 2006
2,336 Posts
I am getting less impressed with Victor Models. The hull is cut very crooked. I didn't see how bad it is until I put the balsa sheer strips around the edge and attached the forward and center deck beams. When I went to attach the transom beam that portion of the hull is obviously cut very crooked.

First all the missing parts that weren't shipped with the kit. Then the warped mast that was not replaced after a call to Victor Models. Now this. Are the cheap hobby king sailboats really worse quality than this?
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 09:56 AM
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Cory I installed my keel and keeltrunk first so the hull would sit level then I installed one wood strip 1/6 below the top, as it sat natural in the boat stand I took a level and installed the other wood strip, then I sand down to the wood strips making the top even. Then level out the back buy drawing a line and sanding to that line. The owner pass away about a year ago and his wife moved there business back east and she is still getting set up. Could be why you didn't get everything, the hulls are a little off usually. I never had a problem with then when they were in California. Still a good boat when its done, I've built 3 now and they sail grate. Good luck.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 10:17 AM
I DS slower than I build!
Cory's Avatar
Idaho Falls
Joined Jul 2006
2,336 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by m.g. View Post
Cory I installed my keel and keeltrunk first so the hull would sit level then I installed one wood strip 1/6 below the top, as it sat natural in the boat stand I took a level and installed the other wood strip, then I sand down to the wood strips making the top even. Then level out the back buy drawing a line and sanding to that line. The owner pass away about a year ago and his wife moved there business back east and she is still getting set up. Could be why you didn't get everything, the hulls are a little off usually. I never had a problem with then when they were in California. Still a good boat when its done, I've built 3 now and they sail grate. Good luck.
With the owner passing away and the wife trying to keep the business going the problems are understandable. When I talked to her on the phone she said something with a disgusted tone of voice about trying to get good employees who know what they are doing. I can understand her frustrations. I'll get the boat figured out and I'm sure it will end up fine.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 04:42 PM
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Cory don't give up bro the boat could be a lot of fun. Here are some pix to keep you going. The white one is my sons and the black is mine, also I started a wildcat, don't know when I'll get back to working on it, life in the way right now, LOL
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 05:34 PM
I DS slower than I build!
Cory's Avatar
Idaho Falls
Joined Jul 2006
2,336 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by m.g. View Post
Cory don't give up bro the boat could be a lot of fun. Here are some pix to keep you going. The white one is my sons and the black is mine, also I started a wildcat, don't know when I'll get back to working on it, life in the way right now, LOL
Oh, I'm not giving up! I'm a little frustrated because I thought I'd bought a kit that my kids could build with me, but it looks like there's a lot I'll have to do myself. Eventually it will get to the point that they will get to work on it with me after I get the problems fixed.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 06:48 PM
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United States, MA, Bristol
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The Victor kits are not the easiest kits to put together. They require alot more work than models like a Seawind, Victoria or even a CR 914.
The Soling 1M has issues with things not being quite right. It has issues at the transom with one side of the boat being longer than the other!
Did you install the shear clamps(the wood around perimeter of hull) one side at a time? I don't mean to insult you, but they need to be installed at the same time to keep the hull from twisting like that. When I built my A 3 I had to be very careful to make sure things lined up right and things weren't installed cocked. The kits don't make it easy for you.
You can probably take that twist out once you install the transom and the deck for sure. It make take a little bit of persuasion though!
Good luck.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 07:48 PM
road wart
racie34's Avatar
United States, CT, Stonington
Joined Aug 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory View Post
I am getting less impressed with Victor Models. The hull is cut very crooked. I didn't see how bad it is until I put the balsa sheer strips around the edge and attached the forward and center deck beams. When I went to attach the transom beam that portion of the hull is obviously cut very crooked.

First all the missing parts that weren't shipped with the kit. Then the warped mast that was not replaced after a call to Victor Models. Now this. Are the cheap hobby king sailboats really worse quality than this?
they're alot less work for sure and a decent value. I had the soling from them and took alot of care building it properly....my mast was a banana too. I was thinking of the soling 50 but couldn't get their webpage to work so just ordered a phantom from hk....what the heck , it comes nearly ready.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 01:36 PM
I DS slower than I build!
Cory's Avatar
Idaho Falls
Joined Jul 2006
2,336 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by seefest View Post
The Victor kits are not the easiest kits to put together. They require alot more work than models like a Seawind, Victoria or even a CR 914.
The Soling 1M has issues with things not being quite right. It has issues at the transom with one side of the boat being longer than the other!
Did you install the shear clamps(the wood around perimeter of hull) one side at a time? I don't mean to insult you, but they need to be installed at the same time to keep the hull from twisting like that. When I built my A 3 I had to be very careful to make sure things lined up right and things weren't installed cocked. The kits don't make it easy for you.
You can probably take that twist out once you install the transom and the deck for sure. It make take a little bit of persuasion though!
Good luck.
No I didn't intall the shear strips at the same time. The instructions didn't mention it. I'm not offended. Any tips are great. I can't physically twist the hull to make the sides even. I've tried. I really am sure that any twist that came from not installing the shear strips at the same time was minor. I've measured carefully and the transom cut is crooked. Oh well, i'll get it fixed.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 02:13 PM
road wart
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United States, CT, Stonington
Joined Aug 2003
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the transom will let the rear be square etc....looks like the sides are uneven heightwise , id starighten the back and redo the sides last
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 03:37 PM
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United States, MA, Bristol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory View Post
No I didn't intall the shear strips at the same time. The instructions didn't mention it. I'm not offended. Any tips are great. I can't physically twist the hull to make the sides even. I've tried. I really am sure that any twist that came from not installing the shear strips at the same time was minor. I've measured carefully and the transom cut is crooked. Oh well, i'll get it fixed.
Yah, I didn't notice that at first. You are right. The vertical part of the transom is definately shorter on the right (starboard) side. My A3 was not like that. Sorry.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 10:45 PM
I DS slower than I build!
Cory's Avatar
Idaho Falls
Joined Jul 2006
2,336 Posts
I got the hull straightened out. It took a lot of careful measuring and cutting, but it's good now.

My first keel box split when I inserted the keel. The fit was too tight. I think the problem was that I pained the wood with epoxy to water proof it and bonded the pieces all in one step. My thinking was that it would bond better that way. However, even though I squeegeed the inner trunk surface quite smooth, it must have been rougher than I had though.

I made another one and this time double checked the width and adjusted it so it wouldn't split. What I did was that I heated the wood pieces with a heat gun, painted on West Systems epoxy, and kept painting it on while the wood cooled and sucked the resin into the wood. Then I vacuum bagged the pieces between mylar so that the interior trunk surface would be smooth so the keel would slide in easily. The exterior of the trunk pieces and the bonding surfaces all got peel ply so that it would still bond well. After 24 hours I glued the keel trunk pieces together. After that was cured I wrapped the new keel box in fiberglass and epoxied it in place to ensure that the box won't split. I wonder if that was overkill, but it should be bomb proof.

Yesterday I wet out the keel with West Systems to waterproof it, and bagged it in mylar to give a smooth surface. The part of the keel that will bond into the bulb had peel ply under the mylar to ensure a good bonding surface. You'll see in the photos that I took precautions to keep the bolt attachment point clear of epoxy. First I covered the inner bonding surfaces with mailing tape, and trimmed it to the outside surface. You'll see the thin green line of the mailing tape in the photos. Then I filled the space with pink foam wrapped in peel ply. This time the peel ply wasn't to make a bonding surface, but because I found it was easier to wrap the foam with it than with mailing tape. After the epoxy cured and the foam and tape were removed, the wood was still raw where the screw will bond. It will get its waterproofing when the screw is glued in. The keel fits nicely into the new trunk.

I cut the keel slot into the bottom of the hull. When I get the bulb filled with epoxy and attached to the keel I'll be able to mount the keel trunk in the hull.
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Last edited by Cory; Apr 05, 2012 at 10:50 PM.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 11:48 PM
I DS slower than I build!
Cory's Avatar
Idaho Falls
Joined Jul 2006
2,336 Posts
I forgot to mention, rather than using Testors model glue to glue the transom to the hull I used M.E.K. I held the transom in place and used a dropper to let the M.E.K. run down the seam. It worked really well. After that had hardened I took some of the hull scraps that I had cut off and dissolved them in some more M.E.K. and used that polystyrene paste to fill in the cracks around the edges. This was my first time to try this. I'd highly recommend it. Other than needing a little patience while the polystyrene scraps dissolved the process was very straightforward and resulted in a very strong seam.
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