|Jul 16, 2014, 12:26 AM|
RCPlaneBuilder Wicked Yak 55 build log
New from RCPlanebuilder.com
The new Yak 55 is the newest design by Kevin Henrie of RCPlaneBuilder, the designer of the Slicko.
The Yak has a span of 32 inches and a length of 30 inches. The construction of the plane is EPO/EPP. My plane is in one of the color schemes available , a tribal green/white/black pattern on the top and sides and a distinct black/white pattern on the bottom.
The build I will be doing will be the stock set up using all the supplied hardware and some of the RCPB power package.
First impressions of the kit:
The fit and finish of the kit is very nice, in fact with some dry assembly the plane almost snaps together. The wing spar is pre installed in the wing and consists of two carbon fiber blades one is the leading edge for most of the wing. The sides of the horizontal part of the fuse is sided with carbon fiber as well, also pre installed. All the hinged surfaces need to be hinged, but the edges are bevelled very nice and have a clean crisp cut to them that will allow very tight accurate hinges. The elevator also has a piece of carbon fiber in it as well to provide rigidity.
Kevin has done a very nice job on this plane and it shows his attention to detail. Its my pleasure to do the build assembly instructions for this plane.
This is a note I received from Kevin on the design of the plane. After giving him my flight report.
I intentionally designed the Yak to be at that weight. The goal wasn't to compete with the floaty EPP or Depron planes but rather a more aggressive 3D/Freestyle balsa plane. The intent was for it to be a good transition plane to balsa or for those that like to fly with more energy into manuevers. I also wanted it handle wind better and fly more rigid than EPP. Coming from EPP or Depron planes will be an adjustment as it won't (of course) be as forgiving do to its higher speed. I will try to better convey my design goals and its flight characteristics on my website and here.
Here is Kevin flying the prototype of the plane on a 3s600 set up.
|Jul 16, 2014, 12:27 AM|
day one of building
First day of building
tools needed to complete this project:
Hobby knife, Flexible foam glue, CA glue and kicker, Scissors, Ruler or strait edge of some kind, several cans of beer(must remain full to do the job right) or pop cans, and a towel or rag for clean up of excess glues.
Step 1. Lay out everything and confirm its all there, you should have a wing with both carbon spars preinstalled, two ailerons, two verticle halves of the fuse. a horizontal part of the fuse, an elevator, and a rudder. In the small parts bags you should have enough clevises and z-bends to make 4 push rods, 4 control horns, you should have 6 push rod supports, 4 motor mount supports, 1 motor mount, and 1 complete set of landing gear.
Step 2. Cutting and trimming before assembly. (2.1)There are two blocks that need to be removed in the wing panel. The two holes are there to allow the halves of the fuse to be installed. (2.2)At this time it would also be recommended to clean out there 4 slots in the front of the plane for the motor mount supports.
Step 3. Hinging all the surfaces that can be at this time. Blenderm is supplied in the kit, first off start by centring the control surface that is to be hinged to its mating surface.(remember there is a top and bottom to the surfaces) (3.1) Run a strip of tape centred on the hinge line the length of the hinge, do not stretch the blenderm into place as to not cause any warping. (3.2) Next after the top half of the hinge line is done fold the control surface over and place a small strip of blenderm onto the ends of the hinge line. Make sure the two pieces of tape touch each other in the middle to ensure a very tight hinge. Repeat this for all the hinge lines. The only hinge line you can not do at this time is the lower one on the rudder.
Step 4. (4.0) Test fit the lower half of the fuse, the wing and underside of the horizontal part of the fuse. Make sure the front sections of the two fuse halves line up flush with each other. This is important to ensure a good fit for the motor later. Once the fit is the way you like it , apply foam glue to the surface of the wing that mates to the horizontal part of the fuse and place it in place. (4.1) Next apply a liberal amount of glue to the spine of the lower fuse half and install it to its flush location. Wipe away and excess glue at this time(every drop extra is weight you dont want). At this time you need to align the wing so it is perfectly centered to the fuse and place the beverage containers on the wing directly beside the verticle part of the fuse. They need to be full to ensure a proper force is applied to keep this glue joint tight and square. At this point here I called it a night and allowed my glues to cure properly.
|Jul 16, 2014, 12:28 AM|
Step 5. Aileron servo and controls. Make sure to clean out the slots of the surfaces, the moulding process for EPO foam leaves small bits in them. Rough up the edges of the tabs on the control horns to give the glue a better surface to adhere to. Apply glue to the tabs of the horns and place them into the slots. Go make your control linkages now since messing with the horns when they are drying will just lead to drinking more of the weights you used in a previous step.
Cut the supplied shrink wrap into 4 equal pieces, take one piece and slide it over the end of the carbon rod, take one of the z-bend ends and insert it into the shrink tube. Wick in some CA glue and use your heat gun or a lighter to shink down the tubing, you can hit it with kicker after if you like. ******remember CA and Kicker are usually fairly flamable******* repeat this for all the control rods.
Install your 9g servo into the hole, to do this you will need to make a relief in the fuse to give enough room to get the servo in. Cut a small square section out of the lower half of the fuse, make the cut neat as you will glue this back in after the servo is installed. Glue in the servo, most like to put a bit of hot melt glue under the end tabs and a small amount on the side of the servo to secure it. Using the servo screws that come with it, put the aileron servo arm extender onto one of the two sided horns. Install the servo control horn after you have centered the servo.
Push the carbon aileron rod into the clevis supplied in the kit carefully, once the control horns are dry you can set the proper length of the two rods and sucure the screw on the clevis. Please be careful not to over tighten the screw it may crush the rod or strip out the clevis. I had to remove about 1/4 inch from my linkage.
On the Flight report I gave Kevin, I reported an excess amount of slop in the control linkages on the plane. Kevin has created the following video to adress this issue. I recommend doing this strongly.
Step 6. Landing gear. Some may want to call this part optional, I opted to install them. I located the landing gear right between the two spars in the wing. Glue one of the u shaped fiber peices to the side of the fuse. Use it as a template for your threw cut to put the landing gear threw. The landing gear is long and needs to be cut to around 7 inches in length, after cutting the rods sand the end of them to a point as to make inserting them easier into the wing holder(oval fiber piece). once you have your hole in the fuse set in place, put the rod threw and spin the pointed end into the foam to set the tip into place(remember only go threw the one layer in that part and it wont show out the top). Now that everything is dry fit nicely, flip the plane on its gear and check that its level when resting. If your happy with how its sitting glue everything in place. Ensure the wheels are pointed correct before glue hardens. The EPP wheel pants can be installed later.
Step 7. Install the fuse top. Apply a liberal amount of clue to the spine of the fuse half and install it into the alignment slots, ensure the front is all squared up and parallel and allow glue to dry completely. You can do your finally hinge point on the bottom of the rudder at this time it will help hold the parts all straight.
Step 8. Install the elevator and rudder servos in the two holes in the top of the fuse, the rudder servo goes in the rear hole and the horn needs to be on the left side of the fuse. The elevator servo is in the front hole and will face the right side of the fuse. Make sure to route your servo wires to the same side of the fuse as the aileron servo wire is on and cut a small slit in the foam and push them down threw it to the bottom side of the plane.
|Jul 16, 2014, 12:29 AM|
Step 10. Final assembly and set up.
Final assy was a breeze, like most planes this one flowed along very nicely.
Install the elevator and rudder control rods with three of the push rod guides on them, space the supports out evenly. Make sure there is no binding on the supports when the control rods are moved. Just take your hobby knife and cut a slit in the fuse for each one and glue them in place.
Install your motor and esc, make sure to route the wires to the same side of the fuse all the rest of the wires are.
I set up the throws on the plane as wild as I could for max throws the set my dual rates and expos to compensate. I need a few more flights on the plane before I will set the numbers I used out for everyone. Needless to say you dont need full throws on this thing, and the rudder authority is very good.
|Jul 17, 2014, 01:13 AM|
- 32" wingspan
- 9.3 - 9.5 oz AUW
- wing cubic loading 5
- 440mAh - 600mAh 2S - 3S 25C+ battery
- 90w - 120w -/=30g motor
- 2ea 7-9g servos tail 9g servo ailerons
- 12a -15a ESC
|Jul 20, 2014, 10:12 PM|
The Wicked Yak 55 is now available online! I have a promotional discount for $10 off for the first week or 2.
|Jul 21, 2014, 01:31 AM|
Thanks again Kevin!
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