|Jul 17, 2008, 10:03 AM|
Joined Apr 2008
So I got it right - bloomin 'eck!
2) Yes, I was referring to soldering of the 3 wires ( via suitable plug from the header pins on the dongle ) to the chargers PCB here :-)
First link to my original pictures- I have this sorted now I think !
Second link is a duffer ??
I am off to the workshop NOW to have a go - just have to decide on the socket to use on the case end panel, as I think this will be much neater than a dangling cable.
Thanks again guys..... will report back results later tonight ( when you lot are asleep probably - its only 1500 hrs over here in blighty ! )
|Jul 17, 2008, 12:56 PM|
Upgrading the iChargers for dummies
So here is how it works.
Do not start, until you have compleatly read & understood each step.
Also check this posting for informative pictures.
Kenneth also made a neat PDF file on this topic.
1) You need the following items:
Philips #2 screwdriver
USB cable which fits into the converter. Printers and external HD's often use this type, for example.
2) Put a blob of solder on the pads labeled "usb power" on the converter, to get 5V from the USB port.
3) Take the charger case apart. Screw off the endplates, and carefully remove the top part of the casing. Do not rip off the short fan cable.
4) Remove the screws the PCB is fixed with. (remove ALL of them) Carefully remove the PCB by applying a constant force on one side. It may take a little time, as it will stick due to the heat transfer pads.
5) Locate the contacts TX, RX, and GND, as described in Junsi's update note.
Attention: You may have a new PCB version in the 1010B.
Here is the image.
6) Tin the contacts, and the end of the servo cable.
7) Solder the black wire to GND, the middle wire to RX and the other wire to TX. You do not need to care about the "JMP" contacts, if the software already on your charger is V3.02 or higher.
8) Put the servo plug on the converter, so that the wires match the little inscriptions.
9) Download Junsi's upgrader program, install it.
10) Download the driver for the converter, and extract the .zip file.
(Look at the bottom of the page, under "documentation".)
11) You have to press the left button while connecting the charger to a power supply, to make sure it is in "upgrade mode", when you have NOT the 1010B with V3.02 or higher.
12) It is likely, that a popup window opens, which tells you to install a driver for the new USB device your system found. Choose the option where you can manually select the folder the driver is in (it is the folder you extracted from the zip file), and let windows search and install the driver. I had to do this twice, I guess there are multiple working modes possible for the converter, each requiring a separate driver.
13) Open Junsi's upgrader program, and choose the connection for the charger.
Also choose the upgrade file (.bin). If you do not find it, download it via the "download" button.
14) Hit the "upgrade" button.
15) A bar should move and indicate the process is running.
16) When the upgrade is complete, unplug everything.
16) Reassemble the charger. The servo cable can be put under the PCB carefully for future use. Let the contacts, which are visible at the side of the servo plug, face away from the PCB bottom. Be sure the cable is not jammed between the components and the case. Be sure to put the PCB exactly down on the silicon heat transfer pads; do not push it sideways once it lies down. Lift it, push it sideways, lay it down again, if it does not lie correctly at the first try. Tighten all the screws, reassemble the case. Be careful, that the buttons will be correctly aligned in the holes.
17) Power the charger, and reprogram the settings you had before the update, as they are reset during the process.
18) You are done.
|Jul 17, 2008, 01:09 PM|
You need to update the update_info1.pdf file on page one to include newly shipped chargers who's installations do not require the jumper. You should show the two different methods (jumper or no jumper required) of updating based upon the firmware version of the charger you are attempting to update.
You also need to include and explain the new 1010B PCB photo which has different connection points.
|Jul 17, 2008, 01:10 PM|
You have just beat me to it there my friend - I have actually just finished doing my replacement unit ( my first one was returned with an "internal over-temp error" see earlier post ). My replacement unit came with firmware version 3.05
so I am about try my up-grader out in the next few minutes. I have actually taken pictures of the process and mods I did, so if you have no objections I will post them here in a few minutes - might help some folk to better understand what is involved. Here's one of the finished job to be going on with :-)
|Jul 17, 2008, 01:29 PM|
Good work badger-b and Julez.. just what we need.
If you could keep the post updated as all the information comes together, so it's all in one location, hopefully linked in Junsi first post.
Appreciated by many , I'm sure..
I just got my USB/TTL adaptor, so will be utilising these direction very soon.
|Jul 17, 2008, 01:50 PM|
No it doesn not need to be that exact one. It only needs to do USB to TTL. It looks like the one you linked to would work, but I have not tried that one myself. I can confirm that the "china" one you mention (the one Phoenex linked to) does work. Mine took a long week to arrive from China to Europe - shouldn't take any longer to the US.
|Jul 17, 2008, 01:57 PM|
|Jul 17, 2008, 02:19 PM|
Upgrade for dummies in pictures :-)
OK guys here's my effort - sorry the pictures are not the best in some shots - my little camera is not great in macro mode
Thought I would bang up the piccies now as it seems a few peeps are waiting for this "tutorial". Many thanks and due credit to the others who have worked so hard in this thread and as a relative newcomer - my hat is off to you all !
OK - after you have read Julez’ excellent “upgrader for dummies” post above - here’s how I did it in pictorial form.
First off is the solder bridge for the TTL-USB dongle PCB - enabling a +5V supply to the board from your PC USB lead. Pictures 1 and 2
Next up is the wiring on the charger PCB itself - as mentioned - you only need 3 x connections and these are explained in picture 3 - the actual wiring I did is in picture 4 and I used servo cable leading to a spare flight- battery charging /switch harness socket which just fits nicely between the PCB and the LCD unit see picture 5 for how I enlarged the usb port hole to accommodate the socket - this needs to be exactly in the position and size shown to ensure the socket fits between the PCB and the LCD without straining things. I then ran the wires across the top of the PCB and through a hole I drilled in the edge of the board near to a mounting screw, then across the bottom of the board and onto the connection points. Picture 6. I then covered the wires with a piece of insulating tape just for good measure. Picture 7. Next I made up a fly-lead hard wired from the dongle units corresponding pins, terminating in a servo style plug to suit the socket on the case end. Picture 8. I then mounted the dongle into a small plastic toothpick case I robbed from the kitchen drawer, and fixed it firmly inside with double sided tape and blanked off the open end where the cable exits. Picture 9. Next I slightly countersunk and enlarged the button holes in the case lid, as it is easy to trap the buttons in the holes when re-assembling the case - tolerances here were just too close IMO. Picture 10.
I then finally re-assembled the lot, being careful that the new wires did not get trapped between the board and the case ( they do actually but if the screws are NOT tightened too much it is fine ). I put a very tiny drop of screw thread glue ( "loctite" or "threadlok" we call it in the UK ) on each board mounting screw, re-wired the fan wires which had broken off during handling - although they were poorly soldered to begin with and I intended re-doing them anyway.
I then gorilla glued some small nylon feet to the bottom case to aid cooling, and the job was finished.
You can see the finished article in the last picture - 11.
|Jul 17, 2008, 02:29 PM|
Hi again.... I have just done the upgrade and it went like dream
I selected "USB serial port com 6" in the GUI - the prog went straight off and found the 3.06 .bin file, I then hit the upgrade button and the process started - took about 1 minute, and finished with message " upgrade complete" -re booted the unit and all is fine.... "Ver 3.06" on start up screen
|Jul 17, 2008, 02:35 PM|
Nice to hear!
One suggestion for Junsi: I think 10% steps would be enough when adjusting the brightness of the display. This way, it does not need so long to put the brightness back to 100% after each update
|Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|Best charger/discharger $ can buy||namancio||Batteries and Chargers||30||Jan 31, 2010 03:52 PM|
|Power Pacer Battery charger/discharger||ACE_McCOOL||Batteries and Chargers||4||Oct 22, 2002 01:39 PM|
|NIB Hitec CG-325 Charger/Discharger/Cycler for 4-9 cells - $39!||Jason M||Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W)||0||Oct 03, 2002 04:29 AM|
|WTB Good charger/discharger 10 + cells||khen||Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W)||0||Sep 05, 2002 09:55 PM|