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Old Nov 11, 2014, 09:51 PM
Dave Yost
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Ricochet S/N 2 fuselage is out of the fixture

Well, after a few revisions, S/N two is out of the fixture and on its gear. Hopefully I have nailed down the final configuration. Here is the list of changes:

1. The fuselage top angle was changed to raise the V-Tail assembly 3/16th's of an inch in relation to the wing to get more stab area in clean air.
2. The nose angles were adjusted for a better upper deck intercept angle to the wing.
3. The fuselage sides are 1/8th of an inch taller back in the tail for easier push rod installation the strength. (compromise )
4. The fuselage is 1/8 skinnier at the rear bulkhead :
5. Fuselage sides are pulled in earlier in the tail area for more pressure recovery(looks cool, probably does not do much)
6. Nose shortened 1/4 of an inch. (ship one was way, way nose heavy)
7. 1/32 ply re-enforcement doublers added to the nose forward of the bulkhead to lock the firewall in place. This was done to increase torque transfer and over all strength of the nose section. I could feel the sides bowing in when I held the nose to start the engine on ship one. That wasn't going to cut it in 426, it had to be beefed up.
8. Tail saddle incidence changed based on ship one's post mishap review.
9. New fixture designed to produce the final "barely legal" size and shape with less sanding. Ship one was built over sized then sanded to the proper dimensions and shape. The new fixture builds to the outside final dimension, just have to taper the tail and round the edges.

I purchased the wood at 10 AM on Sunday Morning, and the airplane was on its gear about 6 pm. Not bad. The were a few Modelo's in there along the way, and it still came out pretty strait! Total wood cost was $38. That includes the tail material that will make one more stab. Does not include the plywood, I had that left over from ship one.
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Old Nov 11, 2014, 10:25 PM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Hey, cool Dave!

Say, looks like you've ground the edges of your landing gear to a point (and even polished the top-side!). The reason is obvious and I know that's what everybody does, but how do most guys grind their gear? I've worked aluminum gear with a metal file myself and it's a LOT of work, but there must be a faster way when you're prepping two, three or more sets of gear for planes and spares.

Thanks if you can tell me.

Tim
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Old Nov 12, 2014, 09:21 AM
Dave Yost
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I wish I had some magic process that made it easier.....but

1. Draw lines with marker 1/4 back from the leading and trailing edges.
2. Aggressive passes with a file on a 45 angle, then 45 the other direction.
3. Switch to a sanding block with 120 grit sand paper.
4. Then 220 grit wet.
5. Then scotch bright pad(Maroon).
6. 400 grit wet.
7. Mothers polishing compound with foam pad on the DeWalt buffer.
8. Finish with 3M Perfect-it polishing compound.

Takes about 1.5 hours, and I hate every minute of it! But it sure looks good when you bolt it on the airframe. I don't make them as sharp as some others I have seen. It is very easy to cut grooves with the file that are too deep to polish out. Also if you remove to much material, the gear gets weak and bends on "normal landings". I just taper the top and round the edges. You don't see polished gear as much as you used too. It was the standard in the 80's and early 90's. In the era of the ARF and molded airframes, people just want to bolt it all together and go fly.

Cheers, Dave
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Old Nov 12, 2014, 11:00 AM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Okay then, no motorized tool - just good ole' elbow grease!

I've done it before.

I'll be painting my gear though, so no polishing!

Thank you Dave.

Tim
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Old Nov 12, 2014, 03:52 PM
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Dave....looking great. Hope this one flies better for you
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Old Nov 12, 2014, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRProton View Post
Hey, cool Dave!

Say, looks like you've ground the edges of your landing gear to a point (and even polished the top-side!). The reason is obvious and I know that's what everybody does, but how do most guys grind their gear? I've worked aluminum gear with a metal file myself and it's a LOT of work, but there must be a faster way when you're prepping two, three or more sets of gear for planes and spares.

Thanks if you can tell me.

Tim
Tim,

I bought one of these. about $36 with the 20% off coupon in AMA magazine. With an 80 grit belt, shaping takes a couple of minutes. I hand sand once rough shaped. The amount of hand sanding depends on how much I care about the airplane and whether I plan to leave bare, paint or polish. Without a doubt, about the best $36 I have ever spent. I hate buying cheap tools, but this one only gets used to grind aluminum gear and has lasted three years with no issues
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-x-...der-61728.html
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Old Nov 13, 2014, 12:04 AM
Dave Yost
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Yep, cbk07 is correct, a small belt sander would do the job with the correct choice of grit on the belt. I have a big Delta belt/desk combo, but the belt I have on it is too aggressive. I tried it once, cut deep groves and got real hot quick!!

As fare as paint goes, I have done that in the past. Use a good etch primer, SEM works good right out of the can if you don't have a gun. Just make sure the part is warm and it cures in a warm environment. Just seems like no matter how much you prep, it chips after a while. Talk to anyone who has painted a full scale aluminum airplane and they will tell you all about it.

You have to shape, sand, prime, paint and clear coat. All that and it eventually comes off. That's why I just polish now.

Try a flex agent in the paint, it might help. Also, Central Hobbies up in Montana used to sell small quantities of PPG that was color matched to Monocote. Not sure if they still offer that service.

Cheers, Dave
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Old Nov 13, 2014, 08:35 AM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbk07 View Post
Tim,

I bought one of these. about $36 with the 20% off coupon in AMA magazine. With an 80 grit belt, shaping takes a couple of minutes. I hand sand once rough shaped. The amount of hand sanding depends on how much I care about the airplane and whether I plan to leave bare, paint or polish. Without a doubt, about the best $36 I have ever spent. I hate buying cheap tools, but this one only gets used to grind aluminum gear and has lasted three years with no issues
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-x-...der-61728.html
Thanks for the tip!

We have a Harbor Freight (or some sort of similar discount tool store) here in town. I've been meaning to stop by there for a long time now.

Thanks again!

Tim
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Old Nov 13, 2014, 08:46 AM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Yost View Post
Yep, cbk07 is correct, a small belt sander would do the job with the correct choice of grit on the belt. I have a big Delta belt/desk combo, but the belt I have on it is too aggressive. I tried it once, cut deep groves and got real hot quick!!

As fare as paint goes, I have done that in the past. Use a good etch primer, SEM works good right out of the can if you don't have a gun. Just make sure the part is warm and it cures in a warm environment. Just seems like no matter how much you prep, it chips after a while. Talk to anyone who has painted a full scale aluminum airplane and they will tell you all about it.

You have to shape, sand, prime, paint and clear coat. All that and it eventually comes off. That's why I just polish now.

Try a flex agent in the paint, it might help. Also, Central Hobbies up in Montana used to sell small quantities of PPG that was color matched to Monocote. Not sure if they still offer that service.

Cheers, Dave
Mmm, I guess for a pylon racer I'm not as critical...

On the aluminum gear (and fiberglass wheel pants and cowl) on my Proud Birds I just used Omni single stage with a hardener (doesn't require a clear coat - though I typically do use a base coat that requires clear when I paint multiple colors/layers). No primer either.

I've bent the gear a few times (requiring straightening in a vice) with no chips.

Tim
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Old Nov 13, 2014, 09:21 AM
Dave Yost
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looks good.

Yes, single stage Omni will be just fine for EF1......but for Q500 and QM40, you will need polyurethane clear for fuel proofing.

Omni (PPG economy brand) did make a pretty good clear coat. Can't get in California any more. They also made a real good high build primer as well.


Cheers, Dave
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Old Nov 13, 2014, 02:22 PM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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...oh yea, LOL. Didn't think about fuel-proofing!

I'll test the bottom-side of my landing gear or something with that paint on it to double-check.

Thanks for the reminder.

Tim
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Old Nov 13, 2014, 09:07 PM
Dave Yost
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They have all but killed off the automotive paint hobbyists in California. The Clean Air Act has run the cost through the roof. Lacquer thinner used to be 6 bucks a gallon now it is $21....Even the economy brand clears like Omni is $60 for a quart of clear and hardener. Want PPG or DuPont? double that.

So, I am revisiting my childhood and getting real good at Monocote and polishing landing gear!!

Below is my NATS EF1. I built two, the one in picture died a hard death at Whittier. The other is hanging my brothers wall in NC.

Dave
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Old Nov 14, 2014, 06:07 AM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Yea, I use mostly Omni stuff.


Oh, a Shoestring. Yours is beautiful - simple and classic.

Here's one I did the year before I actually started pylon racing.

Tim
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Old Nov 14, 2014, 08:38 AM
Dave Yost
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Very Cool.

I like the Blue....they both look vintage.

I thought about making foam sheeted wings for the shoestring. Still on my project list, once I get the Q500 program squared away. I think it would be fun to make a kit that converts the Shoestring into a Wagner Solution.
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Old Nov 14, 2014, 08:53 AM
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Any true single stage catalized paint ( I think omni is one of those ) will be fuel proof. The clear I use on my Q40s is 22 dollars a quart with hardner.

DE
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