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Old Aug 25, 2013, 02:08 AM
No mods no glory!
micromantis's Avatar
United States, CA, Redwood City
Joined Nov 2010
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UMX Habu DF Mod thread

This has been an awesome little jet and from the looks of it becoming a favorite among many.

Initial mods:

I had to add a little color to my canopy so I went with Tamiya TS-19 Metallic Blue.

The elevator needed 1mm carbon rod reinforcement just like the UMX Mig and 1.5mm stab through the rudder.

The main wing just need a 1.5mm carbon rod leading edge for protection.

CG has been marked at 40mm for me, it seems everyone has been setting theirs between 40-42mm, 37mm just was not cutting it.

Looking forward to some 3S UMX Habu's!
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Old Aug 25, 2013, 09:49 AM
Crash 'em if you got 'em
United States, TX, Euless
Joined May 2013
571 Posts
sweet - on horizontal stab - did you recess the CF rod? threading CF through rudder, whats you technique? the last shot -- looks like rod in trailing edge - also recessed? Like the added blue as well.
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Old Aug 26, 2013, 08:09 PM
I just want to go fly!
walter3rd's Avatar
United States, MD, Towson
Joined Aug 2012
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my cosmetic mods. anti-glare strip for pilot, aluminum jet exhaust, intake strip and military garb. much better looking IMHO. just the beginning too im sure. walt
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Old Aug 26, 2013, 09:55 PM
Crash 'em if you got 'em
United States, TX, Euless
Joined May 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waytooslow View Post
sweet - on horizontal stab - did you recess the CF rod? threading CF through rudder, whats you technique? the last shot -- looks like rod in trailing edge - also recessed? Like the added blue as well.
my bad on leading edge -- must have been the shadow that threw me off.

so how are you slotting for the CF?
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Old Aug 26, 2013, 10:53 PM
No mods no glory!
micromantis's Avatar
United States, CA, Redwood City
Joined Nov 2010
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No recessing for the CF rods just held them in place very carefully CA'ed the both ends of the CF rod and added clear thin packing tape over them. You could however recess them very carefully on the elevator but no need. You could slot the leading edge of the wings and put the CF rod in there with a sharp #11 blade and put packing tape over that or CA it in or both.
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Old Aug 31, 2013, 04:40 PM
I just want to go fly!
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United States, MD, Towson
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afterburner!
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Old Sep 05, 2013, 08:53 PM
Registered User
Commonwealth of Puerto Rico
Joined Jun 2011
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I makes some mods today on my habu, I slide it and put out the edf unit and receiver.
Mods:
Aeo 30mm 8 blades with 4 blades off
Spin motor 14000kv
Castle esc
28mm BIM edf unit
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Old Sep 05, 2013, 11:23 PM
Crash 'em if you got 'em
United States, TX, Euless
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more details as you finish up!!!!
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Old Sep 06, 2013, 06:04 AM
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of course!
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Old Sep 06, 2013, 10:10 PM
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I waiting the BIM 28mm shroud....but I decide make few flights before with a 25mm unit...
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Last edited by jahel; Sep 06, 2013 at 10:42 PM.
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Old Sep 06, 2013, 11:50 PM
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Need for speed!

Ksqm
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Old Sep 07, 2013, 04:56 AM
A man with too many toys
United States
Joined Feb 2001
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Where did you purchase that motor – link please?


Also will that motor work with stock fan and ESC?


.
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Last edited by RC Man; Sep 07, 2013 at 05:07 AM.
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Old Sep 07, 2013, 06:52 AM
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The motor a xtreme spin motor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CXZ...=A62A5QITNPU7J
The edf unit with Boredom:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1731372
Here the rotor this need to trim a little:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...GWS_EDF30.html
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Old Oct 12, 2013, 09:38 AM
Live to ride... and fly!
Tres Wright's Avatar
Forney, TX
Joined Mar 2002
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Guys, I did some mod's to mine for 3s and flew it this morning, as you might expect performance is significantly better than on 2s. I was disappointed in how slow it was out-of-the-box, it's performance on 3s is much more like what I initially expected. Here is a text I sent a buddy describing the mod's I made to it:

Quote:
Conversion is done, it was pretty easy. I'll describe it while it's still fresh in my mind:

- The canopy is glued on, pry around the edges with your fingernails and it pops loose. There's an existing cooling hole in the foam at the front of the canopy, I opened it up some more with an Exacto. I also cut some additional exit holes in the back of the canopy (there are two small ones). I then pulled the batt lead up through the top to get it out of the way.

- Next I cut the foam out of the back of the batt bay all the way to the brick being really careful not to cut the servo wires (I moved them back and forth as much as I could while I worked). I basically extended the batt bay rearward so I could get the batt as far back as possible. The CG is still 1/4" forward of the RCG suggested mark, but I'm going to fly it that way and see how it goes. I cut a slot through the foam just behind the batt bay for some additional cooling directly over the brick, so it'll have air flowing from the top and bottom of the plane.

- Once that was done I used strips of clear packing tape to reattach the canopy.

- Then I soldered a new JST connector on. I remember you asking about soldering over foam, what I do is take a piece of foil and poke a hole in it, then run the leads through that and lay the foil over the plane. The foil dissipates the heat, even if you drop solder on it the foam will be fine. The leads you're soldering are short, so to keep the shrink from "pre-shrinking" while I'm soldering I wrap a wet paper towel around them and put an alligator clip on it to hold it in place. Then you can heat the solder up as much as you want and the shrink is unaffected.

That's really about it. I ran it up on the Whattmeter and it showed 5 amps, but I get some losses through the Whattmeter so it's drawing more than that.
I'm flying it on 3s 250 TP's. Flight times are short- pack was dropping fast when my 3 min timer went off so I've adjusted it to 2:45. That was flying at or near WOT the whole flight. The slightly forward CG doesn't really matter on 3s. On 2s it'll barely loop with a rearward CG, but on 3s it powers through loops just fine even with a forward CG. It'll go vertical a while, but certainly not unlimited. Pack came down warm, so I've since cut some cooling slots in the foam on either side of the pack. Packs are charging now and then I'm going to take it out again to see if it helps.

I fly on a grass field without the landing gear. Hand launching seems just as easy even with the heavier pack. Landings are also a breeze, power off it practically lands itself.

I've read at least one report of premature ESC shutdown (probably over-heating), that's why I made sure to add the extra cooling. I had no issues and like I said I flew it at or near WOT the whole time, and I did extended WOT runs several times. Hopefully it'll continue to stand up to this long-term, time will tell.
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Old Oct 14, 2013, 08:17 AM
Live to ride... and fly!
Tres Wright's Avatar
Forney, TX
Joined Mar 2002
15,165 Posts
Flew 6 flights over the weekend on the 3s setup. The only issue I've had is sometimes it goes through the initialization and gives all the tones including the final one, but afterwards the plane is dead- no servo movement, no motor. One time I had to unplug it and plug it back in half a dozen times before it finally worked. I'm guessing the higher voltage of the 3s pack is confusing the brick sometimes. Anyway, once it fires up I've had no problems in-flight.

The little jet is an amazing sport flyer on 3s. It'll do knife edge the length of the field, big inside loops, big outside loops from inverted, decent vertical, victory rolls, big split esses and immelmans, 4 point rolls, etc. I'm putting about 200 mah back into the packs after a 2:45 flight. Sure wish it flew longer, 4 minutes would be perfect. I think a bigger pack would start to weigh it down though.
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