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Old Apr 30, 2013, 12:34 PM
Ldm
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Motor problem seems helpless ?

This will be the second Turnegy that I have had some issues with that are truely puzzeling with no resolution from my ability to fix the motor .
Two motors 1--started the problem 100% on its own , 2) started after a hard nose over on a running prop.

The problem , it seems like it wants to turn over and run when I apply thorttle but studders as if it was a gas engine. Turns slow , intermittment ect .
With no warning or anything differant , its will run problem free , but then start the issus once again .
I have up on my first one , this one is more difficult to remove so I was hoping for some advice.

Things that seem ok are
1)ESC connections
2)ESC to motor
3)ESC to Battery
4)All aftermarket soldered joints and battery connections.
Any suggestions ?
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Old Apr 30, 2013, 02:59 PM
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That symptom sounds like a short (or a mis wound coil but that's not this case) or a phase that has broken most of it's strands and can't carry the current. First check the end of the motor leads (all 3) to the stator /housing for continuity, If there is any reading then the motor is shorted and further investigation may locate it in the leads coming from the windings. Other wise the short is in the winding and a rewind would fix it.. The typicle household DVM can't see the broken wires in the conductor. Broken wires in the conductor are easy to find by cutting off the heat shrink. Depending on were it's broken it may be possible to repair. Turnigy's are good motors for the price and really come to life with a good wind on them.
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Old Apr 30, 2013, 04:13 PM
Ldm
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Ok lets break this down as your info sounds very good.
1)Phase ? sorry for the stupid question but what is the Phase
2)to rewind do you remove the casing and look for an end of the wire and rewind tighter ?
3)I like the Turnegy brand just find this problem now on two motors and the first one was crash free
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Old Apr 30, 2013, 06:09 PM
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1)These are three phase motors, each phase consists of at least one wire, in this motors case the conductor (wires) consists of multiple strands of wire. There are technically only three conductors on any 3 phase motor. The wire is wrapped around the 3 or 4 of the teeth (nutons =German for tooth, I think) depending on how many teeth the stator has. At the start of one conductor it wrappes multiple times around a tooth (turns) and then goes to the next tooth and the next and the next , then there is the end of the wire. Each wire has an assigned tooth and direction ( clockwise or counter) to be wrapped on depending on the winding scheme. This is done three times with three conductors until all teeth are wrapped.. So at this point with all the teeth wound we end up with what looks to be 6 wires hanging out from the stator. I need to mention that this is not bare wire but what is called magnet wire it has a very thin coating on it that insulates it.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1855239&page=4

Look at post #47 I have pic of the 6 wires ends unconnected (un-terminated)
Now to complete the circuit the six individual wires have to be connected . There are two ways to terminate a motor but that doesn't matter at this point. What you end up with after termination is the 3 conductors that connect to your ESC.
To check for shorts use a DMM (digital multi meter) on the ohms setting. Put one meter lead on one of the motors bullet connector and touch the other to the motor housing it should indicate no continuity (open circuit). If there is a reading make sure your not touching any metal parts as a good ohm meter will read you as part of the circuit. If your up to it removing the rotor (bell) and touching the stator on bare metal directly is the best method.

2) Rewinding means removing the existing wires and replacing it.

3) These motors are produced quickly and can have flaws that QC doesn't catch, (if there is any QC) part of the reason they don't cost much. BUT less the winding job, the rest of parts quality (stator, magnets bearings etc.) are OK. And the vast majority of budget motors work fine within specs.

You mentioned that you inspected the solder joints. Unless you solder them your self there may very well be a cold solder joint even if the wire does not pull out of what it is soldered to. Most budget motors I have taken apart have at least one cold solder joint. You'll know when you go to unsolder it how it comes apart. Sometimes the cold solder joint may not be bad enough to cause a problem. But I have to say it is a leading cause of problems with this caliber of motor regardless of whether it's a Turnigy or not. So if you find no shorts to ground when checked double check and preferably re solder the connectors.
I post allot of pictures of everything I do so check out threads started by me and perhaps that will help with understanding.
With a little trouble shooting you may well revive the first motor as well.
What motor is this can you provide a link?
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Old Apr 30, 2013, 06:34 PM
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I forgot to mention that there needs to be continuity between the the 3 leads.
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Old Apr 30, 2013, 09:23 PM
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Zero , great info sir , very greatful I will take a pick and post the specs ect .
Cant thank you enought for the education !!
I am excited about doing some CSI work and trouble shooting .
Still traveling but we be home tommorow and will post some pics .
Thanks again , I want to hit the link you posted now and read some more
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Old May 01, 2013, 05:50 AM
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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1673722
Here is an example of a Turnigy I rewound a while back it provided some good lessons on how not to do certain steps. There is a link in the thread to Dr. Kiwi's Fly brushless in which the stock motor is loaded with a variety of props and some rudimentary data is recorded. I get dizzy/cross eyed studying charts of numbers, that's why I record as much data as I can with pictures (worth a thousand words) . The rewound motor has increased performance and efficiency over the OEM winding. The only difference is the effort and wire that went into winding.
(Wow! nice P-40, one of my favorites)
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