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Old Jan 23, 2011, 10:43 AM
More Pile-it than Pilot
mdennis's Avatar
Shawnee, Kansas
Joined Nov 2002
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Micro Eagle from Flyparty

I have one of the larger flyparty EPP eagles that really is fun to fly, so when I heard that a smaller version was available to fly indoors I thought I would get one.

This should be a quick build, so I will post pictures as fast as I can.


No instructions came with it, so I sent off an email to flyeagle2007@gmail.com asking what glue they recommend and if there are any build instructions. They responded quickly, (considering they are on lhe other side of the world and the time zone difference)

These pictures are as close to building instructions as you get.
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 10:45 AM
More Pile-it than Pilot
mdennis's Avatar
Shawnee, Kansas
Joined Nov 2002
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Some youtube videos of a Micro Eagle flying

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIGMfEEWRCI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhJr5zS6hfE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIh3X90VwE0
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 11:14 AM
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Joined Nov 2002
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The first thing I did was lay the parts on my scanner to make a copy of them, so I can make a new part if/when I tear one up. I took a picture of everything I got so you can see what comes in the package.

I started with the wing by gluing the two halves together, then gluing the spar on. The instruction picture shows it 15mm back from the leading edge at the fuselage.

I am using flexible CA to glue it together. It sets fairly slow, so you have a little working time to position the pieces. If you hit it too early with kicker it will turn a light yellow, but I am going to paint mine when I am done, so I don't mind.

The wing will have some curve in the chord from the way it attaches to the fuselage. The instruction picture also shows dihedral in the outer wing, but I couldn't figure out a good way to make that stay. If you bend the wing you will flatten out the wing.

My solution is to add a couple of small ribs at the ends of the spar, this will hold the wing curve throughout the wing span. I then put a small cut in the wing top on the outer side of the rib, bent the wing up and glued the wing back together. I made a wedge that was cut at 15 degrees to hold the angle while I glued the wing angle in place.

Mark
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 01:33 PM
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USA, KY, Louisville
Joined Oct 2002
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Vapor Radio for the "Meagle"?

Most of us have that Brick in something we have already. I have gotten word that its possible to 'program' the RX for elevons versus Vtail or standard tail. To clear up what that all means if you haven't thought about the differences... rudder stick mixed with elevator stick is what is used for standard wing airplaines with a Vtail. Elevons are a mix of aileron stick and elevator stick and used on delta plane configuraions (flying wings) OR a Vtail plane that doesn't have alierons on the wing. (like a Vtail fulll house plane versus a RES Vtail airplane).

Since most sailplane guys use the 9303 or equivelent TX we have mixing in the transmitter...thats fine IF the RX has the right servo channels to plug the servos into that the TX sends its info to when set for Elevons. It is again my understanding that the Brick from Horizon does have enough pin outs to get those channels...and I have heard that its possible to switch the speed controller from controlling a brushed motor controller to a brushless controller. BUT I have not done the leg work to figure all that out.
Hopefully some one will chime in with links to that information.

The four of us who ordered the Micro Eagle got excited about it because we got to do some church gym indoor flying over the holidays. Access is intermittent for us, and after testing most of the Airhog toys and the Park Zone stuff, we found that it wasn't something we were dying to do...the Micro Eagle kind of gave us a spark because it was something different and a bit of a building project ...on small budget.

However after it arrived, its cute but it gave us a hankering for something a bit bigger that we could fly outside too. The original is about 16" span and likely won't fit the Vapor Brick and likely that power combo is way over kill for the Micro's size. So we plan on blowing up the design a bit to may 24", similar to the vapor. We don't have any of the EPP 1/8" but our local hobby shop has some Sig foam board that seems to be white depron, about 5 sheets of 12" sq.

Its stiff an easy to work with for the trial, there is a source easily found on RC groups for the 1.9lb density EPP 1/8" sheet (3mm) if we decide its a project worth continuing.

You?
Gordy
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Last edited by Gordysoar; Jan 23, 2011 at 01:33 PM. Reason: added text
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 02:49 PM
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mdennis's Avatar
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Joined Nov 2002
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I decided to use goop hinges for the v-tail. You could probably use tape hinges if you sprayed it 3M77 first. I used an angle of 100 degrees, anywhere from 90 to 110 should be fine.
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 02:58 PM
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While I was waiting for the Goop to dry I assembled the fuselage. Gluing thin EPP on edge on a curve is a pain in the tail, but if you just tack it with dots of glue then come back with a bead in the corner it works out.

I glued the motor from an Ember into the supplied motor mount and glued it in before I put the front top of the fuselage on.
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 03:06 PM
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Gordy brings up an interesting point about the V-tail programming, but I figure I can use the mixes to work that out.

His next point about the Vapor brick is a bigger problem. The NFL playoffs are on, Maybe something will come to me while I am watching them.
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 04:07 PM
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Servo pushrod alignment?

Hi Mark,

Don't forget its not just fitting the brick in place, you have to get the servo's aligned with the surfaces too. The servo's can be removed from the brick I believe and then they can be mounted to the sides for alignment purposes I believe.
Gordy
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 04:29 PM
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Found this about hidden channels on the DSM2 Brick

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ght=dsm2+brick
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 05:57 PM
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mdennis's Avatar
Shawnee, Kansas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordysoar View Post
Hi Mark,

Don't forget its not just fitting the brick in place, you have to get the servo's aligned with the surfaces too. The servo's can be removed from the brick I believe and then they can be mounted to the sides for alignment purposes I believe.
Gordy
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Gordy,
It looks like you are correct that the servos can be removed from the board for remote mounting. That may be the only good way to make this work.

Mounting them on the outside of the fuselage would make them line up with the horns pretty nicely. The board will fit inside the fuselage if it is mounted at an angle.

Balance wise, they will need to be pretty far forward along with the battery to get the CG in the right area.
Mark
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 06:05 PM
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From what I have heard, once the transmitter is programmed the brick needs to be upside down and backwards to run elevons or V-tail properly. So with this bird you might look at mounting it on the underside of the wing in the fuselage. All this should of coarse be tested by programming prior to mounting.

Good build thread by the way
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 08:23 PM
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USA, KY, Louisville
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The Rest of the Vapor Brick story, or at least the manual

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo...0-L-Manual.pdf

This says its a 6 channel and explains the adavance features.

Gordy
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 09:36 PM
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mdennis's Avatar
Shawnee, Kansas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derk View Post
From what I have heard, once the transmitter is programmed the brick needs to be upside down and backwards to run elevons or V-tail properly. So with this bird you might look at mounting it on the underside of the wing in the fuselage. All this should of coarse be tested by programming prior to mounting.

Good build thread by the way
I will definitely hook everything up and make sure it all works correctly before I start mounting the radio gear.
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Old Jan 24, 2011, 06:45 AM
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Shawnee, Kansas
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Well, I've got good news and bad news -

The good news is that the "V" tail function is easily programmed in my JR9303 by choosing a "Delta" wing type. just as Gordy said. (I know it's overkill to fly a three channel plane with this radio, but it's the one I already have.) Reversing one channel or the other flips the direction, so the brick can be mounted facing either direction.

The bad news is that the servos don't work when you remove them from the board. The mechanical portion is easily removed from the board by taking out four tiny screws, but there are a couple of strips on the board and some small pickup wires on the bottom of the servos that must have something to do with positioning the arm.

Long story made short is that you have to use the brick as it is.
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Old Jan 24, 2011, 05:41 PM
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Can't remove servos from the Brick :-(

Hmmn, that's strange, I know that the knock off version from Hobby King offers the RX and servos seperately.


No worries though! That's just another reason to blow it up! As in supersize it a bit. :-).

I think though if you cut the fuse out a bit so that it doesn't bulge, leaving the brick stick out some on each side it will work out okay. Not pretty but serviceable enough to test fly the original model.

Gordy
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