Joined Jun 2007
Summary and recommendations:
The parts I used were very well designed and apparently the little problems have been changed on the cutting files. But the website has been down for quite some time and I have been told it will probably stay that way. There were never any plans, though buying the Charlesworth plans is a great help. And though I have been told that a laser cutter was working on this ¼ scale version, plus an enlarged 1/3 scale version, I have not seen any indication of that. So what follows is a summary of my experience and some current recommendations:
If I wanted a short kit of an Olympia 2b, I would try the Charlesworth kit now being cut by http://www.scalesailplanekits.com in the USA and Cliff Evans in the UK. Plans are available from flyingscalemodels.com/plans/cliff-charlesworth-scale-gliders/. I would love to see a build log using these parts; at the moment I am just not up for it.
there are actual plans from which to build the model
the laser cut short kit is readily available for a reasonable price
many built; a proven design; flying weight should be under 10 lbs.
very accurate to the full-size; the model plans were drawn using both a full-size sailplane and some of the original plans for it
the parts I used are not, and may never be, readily available
parts may not be as accurate as what I used if they were simply scanned and cut from the hand-drawn pencil plans, but still faster than hand-cutting; if the plans were redone in CAD and all dimensions checked, it would be great, but a lot of work for the laser cutter
parts are not self-jigging
I think that plywood covering of the fuse (and maybe everything) would, after getting up to speed on the technique, be faster (especially finishing), at least as strong, and maybe lighter.
I have liked Sig Koverall because it is lightweight and easy to apply, but it is a pain to get the weave filled to prevent pinholes and it does require a lot of painting. I am ready to try Solartex, as the majority of people seem to like it, in spite of some seam sealing problems. Using white, only the fuse w/ fin would need to be painted, with minor trim paint and vinyl markings to finish up.
As far as vinyl graphics, I learned that working with the designer/cutter (Callie Graphics in this case) and asking for actual-size previews before cutting can save everyone time and money and frustration.
I've wanted to build this model for many years. It is very seldom modeled (at least in the US), absolutely stable on tow, and flies great. The paint scheme of the sailplane I modeled also adds some pizzaz to the design.
Joined Jun 2007
So what is left?
Here is a list of other scale details that may/could be added. These are all quite clear in previous photos of the full-size sailplane.
add recessed harness boxes to the seat backs
control stick added to seat pan
"dress" pilot w/ parachute and safety harness
spoiler control arm & cables going back through side of seat
entry/exit pilot hand hold; bent red rod/tube at top front of cockpit
energy probe on top of nose
skid gap cover
If/when I get to these I will add some photos.
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