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Old Aug 09, 2013, 07:51 PM
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ala42's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AES256 View Post
Suppose I want to use an external ESC, bypass the FETs, and just sample PWM off the board. Where can I tap in to the PWM signal on the PCB?
Your request sounds a bit strange. As you obviously can not find the answer in the schematics available in the first post, what makes you think you can use the 6 PWM lines/motor and connect them properly to an ESC for which you do not even have schematics ?
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Old Aug 09, 2013, 08:00 PM
evvGC - 2208 KV80 - 3s LiPo
United States, SC, Charleston
Joined Jul 2013
45 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdeyepro View Post
I haven't been able to get much past flashing the firmware onto this board. I can read and write settings when powering over UART4 only. Then I pull the UART off and power over lipo and the motors hold a position but stay locked in that position as i tilt the copter. Motors are getting very warm even with only 30% power settings. Not sure if there is an issue with my board or the software isnt there yet. Just dont think it is the software's fault of this is working for others.
Not sure if this is a "recommended" method, but it works for me. When powering via the LiPo, you can hook into the UART4 through TX/RX (and I do ground but I don't think it that matters) from the USB, I DO NOT hook up the 3v3 power through UART4 though. Just leave the USB adapter 3v3 power connection unattached

With it powered from the LiPo, you can now connect to the GUI and change settings. With it connected to LiPo (NO 3v3 power!), pull up the GUI as normal and select your COM port (mine is COM4), then click "CONFIGON" to adjust settings. Next click "CONFIGOFF" to see how the settings react with the motors & gimball. If it goes wonky with the settings, just click "CONFIGON" again and the motors will stop and you can adjust settings again.

I find this makes it easier/faster to change settings after getting the firmware on there than switching back & forth between 3v3 power & LiPo power

Don't think it matters, but I'm using a 3s LiPo
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Old Aug 09, 2013, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by acc007 View Post
Alan, it's not 100% true. EvvGC accepts 5v RX & TX as these pins are 5v tollerant. This is the way I use my 5v FTDI usb converter However, what is true, you MUSTN'T power on the board with 5v - this will kill MCU.
I try to not give people the option of doing that as they are just asking to kill the CPU if they inadvertently hook up the 5V not thinking...

Alan
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Old Aug 09, 2013, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Samdamang View Post
Been trying to find a way to do this as well. I even have esc's flashed with firmware to drive brushless gimbal motors (which work well controlled by a transmitter), just no way to communicate with them to actually make use of them with a controller...
Assuming there is a way of picking up a pwm signal from the board, the other issue will be making sure it's the correct duty cycle and frequency for your esc. I'm still researching/testing but I'll post if I find anything. In the meantime, hopefully one of the more knowledgeable folks here will point us in the right direction.
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Old Aug 09, 2013, 10:15 PM
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Joined Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texSC View Post
Not sure if this is a "recommended" method, but it works for me. When powering via the LiPo, you can hook into the UART4 through TX/RX (and I do ground but I don't think it that matters) from the USB, I DO NOT hook up the 3v3 power through UART4 though. Just leave the USB adapter 3v3 power connection unattached

With it powered from the LiPo, you can now connect to the GUI and change settings. With it connected to LiPo (NO 3v3 power!), pull up the GUI as normal and select your COM port (mine is COM4), then click "CONFIGON" to adjust settings. Next click "CONFIGOFF" to see how the settings react with the motors & gimball. If it goes wonky with the settings, just click "CONFIGON" again and the motors will stop and you can adjust settings again.

I find this makes it easier/faster to change settings after getting the firmware on there than switching back & forth between 3v3 power & LiPo power

Don't think it matters, but I'm using a 3s LiPo
That is how I have been doing it was well. I just have never seen this board do anything resembling balancing the gimbal. Either the motors lock up or it randomly wiggles all over the place.

I get A LOT of heat coming off the board which makes me worried to use it for a long time. As in, I put my hand 6 inches above it and can very clearly feel the heat radiating off it. This can't be normal. My Alexmos and Martinez controllers get a bit warm in use but not to the point that it will burn me when I touch it.
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Old Aug 09, 2013, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AES256 View Post
Assuming there is a way of picking up a pwm signal from the board, the other issue will be making sure it's the correct duty cycle and frequency for your esc. I'm still researching/testing but I'll post if I find anything. In the meantime, hopefully one of the more knowledgeable folks here will point us in the right direction.
Did you miss the post above in response to your question? There is no PWM output from the board, at least not that will drive an ESC. You could hack a board to do it, but it would also require custom firmware... Well outside the scope of what we are attempting to do here.

Alan
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Old Aug 09, 2013, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ala42 View Post
As you obviously can not find the answer in the schematics available in the first post
Still working on figuring what's possible, was just hoping someone could offer some advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aadamson View Post
Did you miss the post above in response to your question? There is no PWM output from the board, at least not that will drive an ESC. You could hack a board to do it, but it would also require custom firmware... Well outside the scope of what we are attempting to do here.

Alan
I did miss the post when I sent out that reply, actually, and I appreciate your response as well. Gotta do more research, but most likely would require a firmware fork and possibly modified pcb.
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Last edited by AES256; Aug 10, 2013 at 03:06 AM.
Old Aug 09, 2013, 11:00 PM
evvGC - 2208 KV80 - 3s LiPo
United States, SC, Charleston
Joined Jul 2013
45 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdeyepro View Post
That is how I have been doing it was well. I just have never seen this board do anything resembling balancing the gimbal. Either the motors lock up or it randomly wiggles all over the place.

I get A LOT of heat coming off the board which makes me worried to use it for a long time. As in, I put my hand 6 inches above it and can very clearly feel the heat radiating off it. This can't be normal. My Alexmos and Martinez controllers get a bit warm in use but not to the point that it will burn me when I touch it.
Ahhh ok I see... I've had success with mine (before blowing the board with LiPo & 3v3, lol) balancing, posted a video & PID settings (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post25723876). But it's likely you're camera and gimbal are different than mine so not sure how much those settings would actually help.

I have noticed as well that if I push the power in the GUI over ~80% or so the board definitely gets pretty hot. I have a lightweight setup though, so only need <60% power to successfully get it balanced.

After I had the settings "dialed in" real good neither the board nor the motors got very hot at all, just a little warm. If you're using large motors and a heavy gimbal I could definitely imagine that the power consumption would be much higher than mine with the v1.2 board
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Old Aug 09, 2013, 11:05 PM
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Joined Aug 2010
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Using small motors and a gopro, power is set under 30% and it still gets that hot
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Old Aug 09, 2013, 11:24 PM
evvGC - 2208 KV80 - 3s LiPo
United States, SC, Charleston
Joined Jul 2013
45 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdeyepro View Post
Using small motors and a gopro, power is set under 30% and it still gets that hot
huh... well I don't then because the gopro is lighter than my Nikon AW100

I'm using 2208 KV80 motors (12 pole I think) and a 3S LiPo. The gimbal is a one I'm designing, currently a custom very lightweight ABS plastic prototype from my 3D Printer. I did have an issue early on that when I mounted my outrunner motors I accidentally didn't leave a hole on one side in the center where the shaft comes through (only ~2mm, and 6mm diameter including c-clip). When I didn't have that hole there my motors got EXTREMELY hot because they were fighting drastic friction cause by being smashed under the plastic and being forced to rotate. After figuring out that issue the whole setup was much easier to configure. Hopefully yours is something easy like that!
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Old Aug 10, 2013, 04:01 AM
Qick'nDirtySolutionExpert
Germany, BY, Bobingen
Joined Mar 2013
61 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdeyepro View Post
That is how I have been doing it was well. I just have never seen this board do anything resembling balancing the gimbal. Either the motors lock up or it randomly wiggles all over the place.

I get A LOT of heat coming off the board which makes me worried to use it for a long time. As in, I put my hand 6 inches above it and can very clearly feel the heat radiating off it. This can't be normal. My Alexmos and Martinez controllers get a bit warm in use but not to the point that it will burn me when I touch it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aadamson View Post
Did you miss the post above in response to your question? There is no PWM output from the board, at least not that will drive an ESC. You could hack a board to do it, but it would also require custom firmware... Well outside the scope of what we are attempting to do here.

Alan
Quote:
Originally Posted by AES256 View Post
Still working on figuring what's possible, was just hoping someone could offer some advice.



I did miss the post when I sent out that reply, actually, and I appreciate your response as well. Gotta do more research, but most likely would require a firmware fork and possibly modified pcb.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdeyepro View Post
Using small motors and a gopro, power is set under 30% and it still gets that hot
I'm on that way - to reduce the heat and improve power of the board - paired with radically simplified layout:
not really finished, but today I believe I can do some first tests.

AND - there was space left for the 4th axis ...

Lutz

P.S. AND, yes I'm awaiting the brown-dressed guy who delivers a parcel with the TO-220-5 housed chips

P.P.S. because I'm still dumb to do some software - can somebody from the coders implement the 4th to 6th axis into a .hex file
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Last edited by Overtuner; Aug 10, 2013 at 06:07 AM.
Old Aug 10, 2013, 09:13 AM
Registered User
United States, GA, Atlanta
Joined Dec 2010
2,061 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rdeyepro View Post
That is how I have been doing it was well. I just have never seen this board do anything resembling balancing the gimbal. Either the motors lock up or it randomly wiggles all over the place.

I get A LOT of heat coming off the board which makes me worried to use it for a long time. As in, I put my hand 6 inches above it and can very clearly feel the heat radiating off it. This can't be normal. My Alexmos and Martinez controllers get a bit warm in use but not to the point that it will burn me when I touch it.
One thing that I would check is balance... Remember these work the stepper motors and not like power turning motors. So they basically control holding force and small movements. They don't build turning force, just holding force.

If the balance isn't perfect (meaning that in any direction of movement, the gimbal without the controller connected to it, will hold the camera/gimbal where you set it. tilt the camera right, it holds, tilt it left it hold, tilt it forward, etc. All with no power and the controller not connected.... Free movement, and holds any position.

1.2 had no heat sink on any of the components (ok the 3v3 regulator it did), and the traces for all the high power components was rather small. 1.3 I increased the high power traces, and I added some (it really needs lots more) area for heat sink on FETs.

Alan
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Old Aug 10, 2013, 10:16 AM
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Joined Jul 2013
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problem with overheating

EVVGC Problem ....................... (3 min 36 sec)


this problem of everything mosfet, main chipset CPU and others ..
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Old Aug 10, 2013, 11:00 AM
Hovership
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United States, CA, Cupertino
Joined Aug 2010
999 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by aadamson View Post
One thing that I would check is balance... Remember these work the stepper motors and not like power turning motors. So they basically control holding force and small movements. They don't build turning force, just holding force.

If the balance isn't perfect (meaning that in any direction of movement, the gimbal without the controller connected to it, will hold the camera/gimbal where you set it. tilt the camera right, it holds, tilt it left it hold, tilt it forward, etc. All with no power and the controller not connected.... Free movement, and holds any position.

1.2 had no heat sink on any of the components (ok the 3v3 regulator it did), and the traces for all the high power components was rather small. 1.3 I increased the high power traces, and I added some (it really needs lots more) area for heat sink on FETs.

Alan
Yes it is balanced as well. This is the same setup that I successfully ran a Martinez with. I switched it to the Evv cause I want to make it 3-axis.

I can send my board to someone more technical than me if you are in the states so you can check it for me. Otherwise, I will wait on the improved version.
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Old Aug 10, 2013, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aadamson View Post
One thing that I would check is balance... Remember these work the stepper motors and not like power turning motors. So they basically control holding force and small movements. They don't build turning force, just holding force.

If the balance isn't perfect (meaning that in any direction of movement, the gimbal without the controller connected to it, will hold the camera/gimbal where you set it. tilt the camera right, it holds, tilt it left it hold, tilt it forward, etc. All with no power and the controller not connected.... Free movement, and holds any position.

1.2 had no heat sink on any of the components (ok the 3v3 regulator it did), and the traces for all the high power components was rather small. 1.3 I increased the high power traces, and I added some (it really needs lots more) area for heat sink on FETs.



Alan
I would also check your cables. Balance is important but so are the way your cables are routed. Brushless gimbals are new tech and many people want to blame the controller. Sometimes the controller is wrong...most times it isn't the controller its a small error that the user doesn't know is an error. Check your cables...are they giving resistance. Check your balance....balance does not mean fall back to center....balance with a brushless gimbal really means zero gravity....You can put it in any position and it just stays there. Also check the length of your IMU wire, anything over 35 mm can give you problems too if the power source is too slow to communicate info. One last thing, check your frustration....if it's really pissing you off leave it alone and try again tomorrow....you might just think of something with a clear head in the morning that you can not think of today.
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