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Old May 10, 2012, 10:16 AM
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RiBell's Avatar
Canada, BC, Abbotsford
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Originally Posted by 4075aaron View Post
I need to commission you to build gear for my Ziroli D18!
Gear for the Ziroli D18 is available from Robart.
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Old May 10, 2012, 10:39 AM
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United States, MD, Frostburg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiBell View Post
Gear for the Ziroli D18 is available from Robart.
That is correct, but it would be nice to see what splinterz25 could come up with I agree, doing that for a business would make it far less fun. I just wanted to let you know that I admire your skills!

I am not sure when I will build the D18; I have the full kit and plans. I guess I need the thousands of dollars needed for the engines, radio, gear, etc. etc. etc!!!!

It is on my list of things to get built. I will for sure start a build thread when I do it. There is very little out there about building this kit.
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Old May 10, 2012, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 4075aaron View Post
That is correct, but it would be nice to see what splinterz25 could come up with I agree, doing that for a business would make it far less fun. I just wanted to let you know that I admire your skills!

I am not sure when I will build the D18; I have the full kit and plans. I guess I need the thousands of dollars needed for the engines, radio, gear, etc. etc. etc!!!!

It is on my list of things to get built. I will for sure start a build thread when I do it. There is very little out there about building this kit.
Got it
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Old May 10, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Baltimore MD USA
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Thanks guys... I also was going to build a Ziroli P-38 but not only did I not have the room for that plane I didn't have the funds $$ to buy all of the extra parts required and it would have been in the thousands aaron. So that's why I'm showing this build and my other ones for the average guy that wants to build nice planes but cant go that way. I hope you do build that D-18 though another plane that has not been done very often good luck with it.

Bruce
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Old May 10, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by splinterz25 View Post
Thanks guys... I also was going to build a Ziroli P-38
I have the plans for the Ziroli P-38. They get taken out drooled over; and put away every 4 to 6 weeks. Maybe one day I won't put the plans away and start building it.
Rick
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Old May 10, 2012, 02:15 PM
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United States, MD, Frostburg
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HA! I do the same thing with my D18, only I also have the full kit that I take out from time to time and look at all of the sweet parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by RiBell View Post
I have the plans for the Ziroli P-38. They get taken out drooled over; and put away every 4 to 6 weeks. Maybe one day I won't put the plans away and start building it.
Rick
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Old May 10, 2012, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 4075aaron View Post
HA! I do the same thing with my D18, only I also have the full kit that I take out from time to time and look at all of the sweet parts
Both of you guys need to start building what are you waiting for? your not getting any younger and take it from me you never no when your time is up seize the moment and start building! This way I can watch your builds also we need more builders to post there builds this is a dying art! And the way things are going when our gen. is gone so will building planes w/ balsa.
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Old May 10, 2012, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by splinterz25 View Post
Both of you guys need to start building what are you waiting for? your not getting any younger and take it from me you never no when your time is up seize the moment and start building! This way I can watch your builds also we need more builders to post there builds this is a dying art! And the way things are going when our gen. is gone so will building planes w/ balsa.
I just wish I was faster at building. The 1/4 scale Super Cub is under the bench and on hold right now due to the this.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1536074
Glennis wheels have been ordered and are coming some time soon I hope. I'm just about as far as I can go without the wheels.

Rick
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Old May 10, 2012, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by RiBell View Post
I just wish I was faster at building. The 1/4 scale Super Cub is under the bench and on hold right now due to the this.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1536074
Glennis wheels have been ordered and are coming some time soon I hope. I'm just about as far as I can go without the wheels.

Rick
Rick your as bad as me then so your going to finish this p-38 then build the Ziroli p-38 also? my hat is off to you I hope you post when you get to that build I'll be watching.
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Old May 11, 2012, 02:48 AM
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USA, WA, Benton City
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Originally Posted by splinterz25 View Post
I wish I had a mill ....But It's not fun when you have to make the parts like a JOB!
I got to thinking tonite about the milling side of this. Just a wild thought but..IF you have a Community College near you AND you can generate Cad drawings, perhaps the students/class/instructors could be induced into supplying the parts at a very minimal fee? Perhaps even the same could be lent towards the same aspect with rendering Cad drawings from the same school?
Our local CC has programs in place for such activities as it presents real world challenges the students will encounter upon graduation. My local CC isn't 'fond' of big projects per se but perhaps something like you're undertaking might fit well with the teaching aspects for the students? Granted the time frame kind of stinks but... Just a thought!

Dan
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Old May 11, 2012, 04:08 AM
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deckert .. I don't know if I have been misunderstood, But I like making all of my own parts that is the challenge. And to do what your talking about w/ a school or a cc you would have to know some one very well and by the time you got permission and started to make the parts. I will have hand made and installed and maybe even completed this airplane. I know a bit about the how slow the education system works around here anyway!

I almost bought this though.
http://www.harborfreight.com/two-spe...ine-44991.html

This is cheaper than one set of the name brand retracts, and you would be able to make more than one set of your own retracts and many other parts as well.

this one is real nice also if you have some money to play with!

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-...eed-44142.html
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Old May 11, 2012, 06:38 AM
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USA, MA, Weymouth
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Here's some tips I sent to Grosbeak & DeeBee1 on the soldering subject...

Dear Deckert & splinterz25:

The PIPE Here again - within the last week or two I managed to let both RCG posters with the handles "grosbeak" and "DeeBee1" know about my experiences with using the Stay-Brite stuff, and now, here's that same message for this thread...

...quite some time ago I found out that the solder in a "Stay-Brite" solder kit is actually "plumber's solder", a silver bearing type of tin-based "unleaded" solder that uses a 95% tin, 5% silver alloy mixture. From the chemical symbols for each of those two elements, it CAN be called "SnAg" (pronounced "snag") solder, from the "stannum" Latin name for tin, and "argentum" Latin name for silver.

Plumbers no longer use ANY solder with lead in it for copper plumbing work used for drinking water supply lines. The tin/silver "SnAg" solder, exactly as the Stay-Brite kit has in it, IS commercially available at better stocked hardware stores, especially for plumbing soldering needs.

The zinc chloride based, VERY low-viscosity liquid "Stay-Clean" flux IS available separately from the Stay-Brite package with the solder in it, as at http://www.knifeandgun.com/ProductDe...oductCode=SBS2 a four-ounce bottle of JUST the flux is available for lots of soldering work with a roll of "plumber's solder", with the alloy mix I specified above. You'd be able to do a WHOLE lot more soldering work with a 4 oz. bottle of Stay-Clean and a roll of the 95/5 SnAg solder, than just one package of Stay-Brite could ever get one through.

I've also done lots of high temperature (1150F/620C) silver brazing before, with my old Sears MAPP torch kit, Silvalloy brazing rod and Handy & Harman "Easy Flux" borax-based brazing flux. The shock-absorbing, sprung main landing gear AND tail gear setups on my 1/6th scale scratchbuilt Old Rhinebeck Fleet Finch bipe used LOTS of both Stay-Brite low-temperature SnAg solder, and brazing joints on it for its construction. Where there are a few stainless steel parts on there for the highest stress "working" main gear parts, having the differences in working temps between the SnAg solder and the brazing rod...using each form of metal joining in the proper place for proper construction...made all the difference in having a usable, and decently strong and reliable sprung main gear setup that makes landing the Fleet a VERY "scale-like" experience.

Check out any well-stocked hardware store near you, IF you've got any nearby, to see if they've got rolls of that "plumber's solder" I've mentioned. If they do, look for that 95% tin (Sn), and 5% silver (Ag), type that the Stay-Brite kits use. If you can find a roll of it, and then order that 4 oz. bottle of Stay-Clean zinc chloride liquid flux, you'd be all set to go with the same combo the small "Stay-Brite" kits offer, but with a WHOLE LOT more solder and flux for your needs - you'd be likely to save some funds when compared to getting a bunch of Stay-Brite kits from the hobby shop, just to have the same amount of materials that a whole ROLL of the SnAg solder and a 4 oz. bottle of the Stay-Clean would give you.

Hope these tips help a bit..."


The Rhode Island-located Wolverine Joining Technologies HAS what looks to be an exact match to the stuff in the Stay-Brite kit with their Silvabrite-S 95/5 SnAg roll solder, with a 220C (430F) melting point...combine THAT with the bulk-bottled Stay-Clean flux from the given link in the large type section of this post would give you the same stuff as in a Stay-Brite kit, but in MUCH larger quantities as I was hinting at. The brazing rod I've used with the Handy Flux is also now a Wolverine product, now bearing the familiar-to-me "Silvaloy" name. I used to use the cadmium-bearing Silvaloy 45 formulation, but with cadmium being a toxic "heavy metal" which I know has to be avoided, the next time I get brazing rod, it will be the cadmium-FREE "Silvaloy A56T" instead.

Hope these tips help someone out here...and for Deckert, please remember I've GOT CAD software (AitoCAD 2009 LT, CorelDRAW 12 and DesignCAD 3DMax v.17) that I could use for any needed work I could help a fellow RCGer with, right here on my home PC.

Yours Sincerely,

The PIPE....!!
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Old May 11, 2012, 09:02 AM
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United States, TX, Leander
Joined Sep 2003
2,800 Posts
Splinterz,
My other hobby is amerature machinist. I have a Central Machine Mill ( about 9x30 table) and an Enco 9x20 lathe. When I was researching those tools in the beginning I was looking at the 3 in 1 machines too. A buddy who also does machining as part of his hobby (go cart racing) has a 3 in 1 and hated it. Setup time was a big problem for him. Everyone else I talked to said the 3 in 1's cannot do any single job very well since they try to do everything. I discovered the hard way that the cost of the tools is about half the total when you include assessories like the big clamp, rotary table, sine bars, a variety of measuring tools and cutting tools. But it sure is fun making your own parts. Try looking for used first. The chinese tools are ok but you have to keep the gibs tight and check your reference often. But they do ok for hobbiest. The guy I bought my mill from made engines and did beautiful work so I know any quality problems are me and not the machine. I mostly do engine conversions.

Edwin
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Old May 11, 2012, 09:08 AM
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Baltimore MD USA
Joined Jan 2011
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Thanks pipe...I think I have the soldering down but I'm sure you may have helped some others. I was lucky enough to learn from a silver smith when I was younger
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Old May 11, 2012, 10:24 AM
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thanks edwin1...Yea I went even cheaper and just bought a $35 grinder to make these parts but I think those mills would do light ALUM work w/ out to much trouble you would have to know how to work a mill though.
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