I have a Radian Pro that needs a new fuselage (my buddy gave it to me but is not air worthy without new fuse and wings) My question is;
Can I use all the components from the Radian Pro Including the motor on the Phoenix 2000? If so this might be a cheaper way to go since the radian parts are about $120.00. Thank you in advance for your help.

You could do a lot worse Elbon65 ... Which includes the O.E. P2K's motor and ESC.
The motor and ESC from the RadPro would be a huge improvement.
Dump the rest of the RadPro's airframe but keep the servos as well to add to your spares box.
Daffy

Originally Posted by Little Black Duck

You could do a lot worse Elbon65 ... Which includes the O.E. P2K's motor and ESC.
The motor and ESC from the RadPro would be a huge improvement.
Dump the rest of the RadPro's airframe but keep the servos as well to add to your spares box.
Daffy

Thank you for the reply it is what I wanted to hear. The fuse and wings on the Radian Pro are on backorder and who nows when will they be back in stock again. I can purchase ARF verson of the Phoenix and use all the components.

Originally Posted by elbone65

I have a Radian Pro that needs a new fuselage (my buddy gave it to me but is not air worthy without new fuse and wings) My question is;
Can I use all the components from the Radian Pro Including the motor on the Phoenix 2000? If so this might be a cheaper way to go since the radian parts are about $120.00. Thank you in advance for your help.

The Radian motor uses a non-standard mounting hole pattern. It's 25mm square. The 'standard' with the HobbyKing (and all others I've seen of this size) is 25mm * 29mm. Easy to drill two new holes in the P2K fuselage/firewall sandwich. If you're going the other way (regular motor in a RadPro, you will need an adapter. from smallpartscnc.com. Not recommended to drill 2 new holes in the RadPro plastic molded firewall.
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Greg

Originally Posted by botulism

The Radian motor uses a non-standard mounting hole pattern. It's 25mm square. The 'standard' with the HobbyKing (and all others I've seen of this size) is 25mm * 29mm. Easy to drill two new holes in the P2K fuselage/firewall sandwich. If you're going the other way (regular motor in a RadPro, you will need an adapter. from smallpartscnc.com. Not recommended to drill 2 new holes in the RadPro plastic molded firewall.
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Greg

Thanks for the info. Yes I am planning on installing the Radian Pro motor in the Phoenix. Based upon your info all I need is to drill two new holes in the Phoenix firewall correct?

Originally Posted by elbone65

Thanks for the info. Yes I am planning on installing the Radian Pro motor in the Phoenix. Based upon your info all I need is to drill two new holes in the Phoenix firewall correct?

That should do it.

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Greg

Hi everybody, Norway calling I found and joined this forum because of this thread, I think Iīm in love with this glider! And all the useful information you all provide! Still havenīt got P2K… I have only read to page 53 so far, but I promise you I will read the next 100 as well.
I did fly a lot 20-30 years ago, even gliders, but mostly fuel sportplanes. Our options way back then was mainly balsa kits which we built from scratch. Electro planes were very rare, and foam planes were almost unheard of… EPO didnīt exist! And this 2,4 GHz thing is also maybe a revolution?

Well, as U probably can imagine, Iīm back in school as far as RC-flying concerns, because a lot has happened since I flew…
I hope to get a P2K sometime, within half a year or so. I asked the norwegian company throttlestore.com if they have it in stock, but it seems they only have the Phoenix Evolution 1,6/2,6 m glider. Both to small and to big for me. The reason I asked them instead of HobbyKing is because Throttlestore is known to have a lot of spare parts etc, and very good customer service. Well, time will show.

My kind of flying with a electro glider will be soaring the slopes and search for those beloved thermals. And perhaps a little nice slo-mo acro. Though I must say I really donīt understand why somebody would want vertical climb performance from a glider…. Thatīs something we did with a Curare 40 with a .45 OS engine with 60% Nitro in the fuel… which I just raised in vertical position in my hands, pushed the throttle and went straight up for 200 metres followed by 20 spin turns… More like it, if you understand

Speaking of spins; has anyone tried to spin or snaproll the P2K? I love a good spin, and would really like to perform some stylish aerobatics with a glider.

Well, I just wanted to say hi and thank you all for good and useful posts, Iīll keep on reading…

EDIT:
By the way; some parts of the wing and tail structure seems a little thick and will maybe create unnecessary drag? Iīm thinking of the leading edges, the wingtips, and not to mention the trailing edges of both the wing and tail. Anybody tried to make it more aerodynamic? Sanding paper? Or does the EPO material prohibit that for the sake of strength? Considering that the (fullsize) F-104 Starfighter jet of the 1950īs and 60īs had leading edges sharp enough to cut steaks with, and no much less on the trailing edges, a 2 meter RC glider should take that kind of aerodynamics into consideration It seems unnecessary thick in some parts.

Originally Posted by elbone65

Thank you for the reply it is what I wanted to hear. The fuse and wings on the Radian Pro are on backorder and who nows when will they be back in stock again. I can purchase ARF verson of the Phoenix and use all the components.

Take my advice mate, and spend the few extra dollars on the PNP version. Remove the OE motor and ESC, and duimp them!! .. but use the rest of the gear, and you'll save a heap of time and head scratching, just working out what goes where, and how, and then fitting out the ARF version. An ARF it imost definitely is NOT!
IMHO you should consider modifying the motor mount similar to what I did a few posts back, and also add a bottom rudder hinge, again similar to my mod posted a little later on.
Daffy,

At the speeds that a P2K flies the round leading edges are a good thing. To be brief; a round leading edge gives more gentle stall characteristics and greater low speed lift. The sharp leading edge of the F-104 was a big reason why a lot of young men died.

I started flying gliders more than 40 years ago, sport/scale/aerobatic glow planes 35 years ago, and gave them up when I moved away from my old flying field and I had neither the place nor the will to set up a high start. Then I started reading about the modern motors and batteries and found a great place to fly just a few blocks from my home. I started with a small Extra 330 but soon got bored with aerobatics and got a 2 meter foam ASW28.

Now? I have gone on to a Specter 1800 that will climb, vertically, to over 200meters in 10-12 seconds! Over the winter I plan on building a glider in the 2.5 to 3 meter class that will match that vertical performance. If one really wants to spend the maximum time soaring? A fast, vertical, climb is your best friend. It's better than a high start and can compete with a winch and a short burst uses less battery power than a long climb. That being said...

The P2K's power train is more than sufficient for someone who just wants to get into a modern electric sailplane. If the power train doesn't satisfy you? Then you can start upgrading. My first modern electric glider was decidedly underpowered but still bags of fun. Now I have a more powerful motor in it and some other mods and it's more fun! It took some work but now it does beautiful slow rolls.

Thanks, your reply makes sence to me! I guess I have been away for a long time, and I am not used to "think electric" Maybe there is a good thing getting to altitude in just a few seconds, even though I donīt feel the need for vertical performance.

Leading edges seems OK, and me comparing with a F-104 is way off maybe.
I would still try to eliminate more of the drag from the trailing edges, maybe smooth them a little bit to get an even better glide ratio. If the EPO can handle getting down to a thickness of letīs say 2 mm without getting very weak?

If i buy one I want this bird to sail as good as possible in light to moderate winds, meaning using the lighter battery packs and so on. I will definitely install the flaps, too.

Thanks again

Well teh F-104 was dangerous because its extremely high wing loading and short wingspan..

it was optimized for supersonic flight but down at aproaach /landings it was quite hairy and wasnt any forgiving for errors or failures (engine failing during take off meant no chance of turn back without stalling)

A bit off-topic; but I know the F-104īs quite well, since the RNoAF had them until 1981. Those were Canadian built CF-104īs. I grew up with the beautiful howl from their J-79 engine which in Norway gave them the nickname Westfjord oxe

Originally Posted by Little Black Duck

Take my advice mate, and spend the few extra dollars on the PNP version. Remove the OE motor and ESC, and duimp them!! .. but use the rest of the gear, and you'll save a heap of time and head scratching, just working out what goes where, and how, and then fitting out the ARF version. An ARF it imost definitely is NOT!
IMHO you should consider modifying the motor mount similar to what I did a few posts back, and also add a bottom rudder hinge, again similar to my mod posted a little later on.
Daffy,

OK I ordered the PNP I have a nice ESC and motor that I can install in it. Is the hardware for the flap installation included with the kit?

Originally Posted by elbone65

OK I ordered the PNP I have a nice ESC and motor that I can install in it. Is the hardware for the flap installation included with the kit?

Yup, all the hardware, except the servos. I put heatshrink around all the clevises, as I didn't trust them. I had a stock servo fail on an aileron on my pre-maiden check, so I replaced all the stock servos.

Originally Posted by LanceMc

Yup, all the hardware, except the servos. I put heatshrink around all the clevises, as I didn't trust them. I had a stock servo fail on an aileron on my pre-maiden check, so I replaced all the stock servos.

Than ks for the info clevises seem to be a big issue. have some good ones I will put instead of the ones that come with it.