|Dec 03, 2010, 09:48 PM|
Official E-Flite UMX Beast Modification thread!
There is an official thread for the stock E-Flight Beast which has a lot of good discussion from the Horizon folks as well as the actual Beast builders (fullsize and model). It's got videos and fair amount of "I just got my Beast" or "want a Beast" or "just flew (and love) my Beast", it's located here; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1294197
After a few PM's suggesting this, here is an organized thread for the tweakers, those who are willing to take a perfectly well designed model and push it in other directions, more power, mixing, etc.
I will add links to this 1st page to the various builds and parts as they come along to help make it easier to navigate the mods, like we did with the Sukhoi Mod Thread.
If you modify your Beast, please consider posting your build here as follows. Start your Build on a post (and bookmark that page for yourself) and I'll add a link here on page 1 of this thread for others to easily find and check out everyone's hard work. As your build progresses, edit your same post to keep all of the information together. (if I don't catch your post, please PM me and I'll get it linked),
For starters, here is my build, I gutted my new Beast and went with a more powerful motor, seperate ESC, AR6400L brick, and bigger batteries for very close to the stock weight.
1 - RemE's "Beastier" Beast AP05 Motor, 120g Thrust; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...73&postcount=3
2 - Minirips2's "King of Beasts" MM Motor, 170g Thrust!; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=37
3 - SupaRCs flying lights addition; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3285
4 - Kiteman78's Beast on Skis; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=243
5 - RCBABBEL's "Black Bubble Babbel Beast"; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=336
6 - Sneasle's collection of airshow pics of the real Beast; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=684
7 - chancesAU's 5.8Ghz On-Board FPV Video setup in a Beast; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1548
Helpful Links for Parts Etc.;
How-to Setup a DX6i TX for Flaperons, by Microheli; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3099
Source for JXT Pigtail & Mating Connector Kit; http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9915
Best Source for Beast Specific Battery Connectors/Adapters; http://www.rc-connectors.com/index.p...0ej6dadr9d7o97
Source for the XP-7A ESC; http://www.wowhobbies.com/sale1299xp-7aebayblesc.aspx
Cheaper Ebay Source for XP-7A ESC, http://cgi.ebay.com/Programmable-Bru...item2a09bea7d9
Source for Hyperion Lipos; http://www.allerc.com/batteries-lith..._4_93_155.html
Source for GWS Props; http://gwsprops.com/gws_props_main_page.htm
Source for AP05 Motors; http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9662
Alternate source for AP05; http://www.bsdmicrorc.com/index.php?productID=913
Source for AR6400L Motor Port Connector; http://www.bsdmicrorc.com/index.php?productID=906
Realflight Sim Beast Model, Download, re-name to .g3x, and Import into sim; http://knifeedge.com/forums/download...=file&id=13958
Simple "CapCam" Mount; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3305
Good source of Foam Glues; http://www.rcfoam.com/cart.php?targe...category_id=90
Link to 1N4001 Diode at RadioShack; http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2036268
How to Build a Pack, by Turboparker; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...12&postcount=3
Why use a diode with the outboard ESC's?; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3724
Source for Flight Lights; http://flightlights.net/microsub.html
Link to a simple Thrust Stand, by JJ460; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=183
Dave Wilshere of England twists a box-stock Beast;
Clint Sweet twists his Beast at the home of the Real Beast, Plus BONUS Footage, Must See!;
Nice view, good flying, plus Beast Formation Flying;
QQ Flying The 100cc Beast, Wow, Just Wow!;
TinyBrite Lites in Flight, by ColoradoHeliNut;
Close-in Flying, by Stephan;
Christian Oppliger doing some nice low flying in Switzerland, by FrYakaTKoP;
UM Beast In-Flight FPV Video, by chancesAU;
Collection of Glam shots I've come across from the threads;
|Dec 03, 2010, 09:48 PM|
Current tips, tricks, and files;
How-to Import the Beast model into the Realflight Sim;
1 - Download the .zip file (Link above) Note - Do Not Unzip it!
2 - Rename it's extension from .zip to now .g3x
3 - Open Realflight
4 - Open "Simulation" tab
5 - Select "Import"
6 - Select "Realflight Archive (RFX,G3X)..."
7 - Browse to the location of the Beast File and import.
8 - Once imported, then you go to the "Aircraft" Tab and select new aircraft and find the Beast there.
Happy Flying, it flys a bit like a brick, especially if you chop the throttle!
Battery Performance Comparisons made by Turboparker
Weight & static RPM comparisons (RPM measured under natural light @ 30 sec into the run on a freshly-charged pack):
70 Degrees F
Eflite 2s 120 ----------------------------------------------- 9.45g; Static RPM: 10,200
Eflite 2s 180 ---------------------------------------------- 12.92g; Static RPM: 10,500
Hyp 2s 180 ----------------------------------------------- 11.84g; Static RPM: 11,100
Hyp 180 'UM' cells x2 + RC-Connectors series harness ------- 12.34g; Static RPM: 11,000
Hyp 180 'UM' cells x2 + Eflite series harness ---------------- 13.01g; Static RPM: 10,700
Hyp 2s 240 ----------------------------------------------- 14.51g; Static RPM: 11,100
RPM data suggests that the stock 120 is a bit overtaxed in this application. Note the significant RPM increase with the Hyperion 180 pack. Also note the significant reduction in performance when using the Hyp 180 'UM' cells & the factory series harness - 400 RPM in this case. Interesting that there was no increase in static RPM with the Hyp 240 pack. The Hyp 180 pack may indeed be the ideal match for this plane - a significant power increase, yet lighter than Eflite's 180 pack.
A quick flight confirmed that my lightweight Hyp 180 packs provide a marked improvement in power as compared to Eflite's packs, and even the Hyp 180 'UM' cells + series harness. Vertical was very noticeably improved as compared to my vertical performance demo. I hope to test-fly with the 240 pack soon.
Bottom line: My Hyperion 180 pack blows away the stock 120 mAh pack, and it also outperforms the Eflite 180 pack by a large margin; yet it weighs 1.08g less than the Eflite 180 mAh pack. My Hyperion 180 pack also outperforms the Hyp 180 'UM' cells + Eflite series harness by a large margin, and it weighs 0.76g less than the individual cells + harness. My Hyperion 240 pack also outperforms the Eflite 180 pack by a large margin and provides a significant improvement in endurance - yet it is only 1.6g heavier than the Eflite 180 pack. Flight-testing shows that the extra weight of the Hyp 240 pack over the Hyp 180 pack is barely noticeable. It is evident that if you want to unlock the true potential of the UMX Beast, making your own packs is well-worth the effort. If you lack the soldering skills, a pair of Hyp 180 UM cells with the series harness is the way to go until quality aftermarket packs are available. Joel
Link to post on how to build a pack; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...12&postcount=3
Up to date info available in Joel's Battery Blog, here; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...97&postcount=1
Want to add lights? Take Note about using the X-Port connector
If you use a pre-made light set from Tiny Brite Lites, they provide a standard AR6400 type servo connector to power them right from an open channel port on the brick. The lights can be turned on and off with a transmitter switch. On the Beast you can use the open X-Port but be aware that it is a 4 pin connector. This will work fine, BUT, you must take care to offset the plug to one side and use the correct 3 pins! See pinouts in the photos below for AR6400 and 6400LBL bricks. Don't be confused, the pinouts are the same for all the bricks currently but the two Horizon photos have opposite orientation Good rule of thumb, the connector offset goes TOWARDS the servo drive gears and the negative lite wire is 1st.
Note - To Change ANY Mode on these RX Bricks!
To be able to change the RX modes (like for seperate aileron/flaperon use), you need the TX to be initially set as a "vanilla" default airplane, no reversing etc. to ensure the RX sees the correct deflections to change modes. If the brick doesn't make the three quick blinks a few seconds after power up, it's not changing modes.
You must change modes first, then add the appropriate mixing to the TX to control the new aileron (ch6) channel etc.
Note - Changing to Flaperon Mode with FUTABA Transmitters, by Mera'din
I had to experiement a little. I noticed that when I was doing it according to the manual it would reverse the elevator channel. That was weird and got me to thinking that it may be something with the way the Futaba outputs the channel order to the RX. I know that Futaba is backwards on the throttle compared to other brands so maybe the channels are wonky here too.
It ended up being that I had to hold the throttle up and then move the (right) stick to the top right corner (full down and full right aileron).
Lower left, reversed the elevator
Lower Right, reversed the aileron
Upper Left, reversed the rudded
and Upper Right did the trick.
3-Bladed Prop and Mixing Tips for INDOOR BLISS!, by C/F
I find it a thrill to fly indoors with the BEAST ,,,,,,,,WHAT??????
I like the GWS 3 blades for hoverbatics as you can get to a specific thrust without speed, or rpms, or torq issues of a 2 blade. It really changes the throttle range. ie lets say 0-100% is say 3 oz thrust over 20mph, as a two blade it may be 0-100% 3 oz thrust over 30 mph.
I cut down a GWS 5X3X3 to a 4X3X3 , you can email www.gwsprops.com and ask for BEAST prop cut and reamed $3. Prop pulls about 2.2 amps on stock battery and has enough pull for hover pull outs and knife edge loops indoors.
I then seperate out the ailerons and use a free point mix so that anything below 40% throttle has a fixed 5-7 deg flaps on all ailerons for improved low speed lift. throttle= master, flprns=slave
I then use a throttle to throttle free mix to bump up the ESC curve so that just one click of power will spin prop, The stock ESC is poor resolution IMHO on anything below 40%.
Then for awesome slow harrier flight and torq rolls, I use elevator to flaperons mix @ 70% because the prop thrust is hidden by the wide fuse body and the elevator has little effect so the ailerons take its place.
Then for some super slo mo flying mix in a 70% rudder to aileron mix this keeps it flat with the fixed flaperons it is a slo mo fo sure.........
I also like after arming to have prop turning as an idle. Also the 4" 3 blade sticks out past cowl by a 1/4" and is flexible I doubt one could ever brake another prop with nose overs.
By using flight mode switches for the variuos flight envelopes, people are in awe of a "BEAST" flying indoors on a normal basket floor half court.
My amp testing went roughly like this.
Stock GWS 5X3X3----3.0 amps
Cut to---4.75X3X3----2.8 amps
Cut to----4.5X3X3----2.6 amps
Cut to---4.25X3X3---2.4 amps
Cut to-------4X3X3---2.1 amps
Wing rocking in high alpha is least noticable with the smaller prop as well as added rpms provides ample thrust over wing surface without speed.
I have my flight timer set to 5 minutes and stop hoverbatics at 5 and just do aerobatics to about 7 minutes.
|Dec 03, 2010, 09:58 PM|
Here's my 1st stab at making the Beast a bit, Beastier?
First a disclaimer, the Stock Beast is very well designed and optimized for the components it's shipped with and is easily one of the best stock micro models available currently. I'm not indicating that any of the following mods are needed. I'm a tinkerer and wanted to see "what if" I used one of the lighest, most powerful motors around, the AP05, in this plane. I'm sure that 99% of you will be happy as clams with the box stock plane and batteries, but for us one percenters, this is for you.
Goal, Same Weight as Stock, 25%+ More Power with AP05 Motor, Longer Runtime with larger and better Hyperion Cells.
Edit-1-15-2011 Here's final weight comparisons between a box stock Beast and my Modified Beast
I had great experience with the AP05 motor in my Suk 2Cell Conversion;
From that setup I found that the 2 Cell AP05 had amazing power, accellerates vertically with approx 120g Thrust, and 12min flights on Hyperion 240Ma packs. Max throttle gave over 11k rpms at 3.2A WOT.
Based on the AR6400LBL's ESC Specs, of continuous 3A and auto cutoff at 3.5A I figured this would just work out... So I did this;
1 - Stripped out the Beast Power System.
2 - Made a wafer thin 0.008" (about 0.2mm) C/F disc mount (1 3/8" diameter with 1/2" hole in it, just cut out with scissors and dremmel the hole, takes 5 min) . Mounted the AP05 and installed with the same amount of right thrust.
3 - Re-worked the battery mounting to eliminate velcro and attain C/G
The whole mod went very smooth, too smooth. I dumped the brittle stock prop and used a balanced GWS 5030 with GWS spinner adapter onto the AP05.
I spooled up the motor and it pulled great, right up until it cut! I installed the watt meter and the system pulls exactly what it pulls in the Suk 3.2A Sadly this fricken AR6400LBL ESC cuts at 3.1 - 3.2A instead of its specified 3.5A
I can try to down size to a 4540 prop, this would drop the amps to probably just below cuttoff (nope). Also the 5030 would unload in the air so I will try it out (wishfull thinking). Restarting is really easy, just chop throttle quickly and it's up running again. I will also play with re-programming timing too as there are something like 5 timing steps available and it's currently default in the middle (nope).
The good news is that the weight dropped quite a bit so that I can use the Hyperion 240Ma packs and be less than 1G of the stock AUW with 120ma pack!
This should have been an easy motor swap, upgrade. I'm super disapointed that the AR6400LBL's ESC is, well, wimpy. When you think about it, most 1Cell ESC's are rated at 3A but most 2Cell Micro ESC's are rated at 5-7A, this should be the case for the AR6400LBL to be used by most general hi performance 2 Cell motors. I'm now looking to drop in a 1.5g 7Amp ESC and lighter non-ESC AR6400L brick, shame though. I've no use for this current version of the AR6400LBL for any other micro projects. An integrated ESC brick with 3A rating and 1 Cell capability would have opened many small project doors, but a heavier 2Cell like this, nada. This current brick is kind of married to the stock 2300Kv Park 180 BL motor which is OK but heavier, and not that powerful. It's like an efficient cast iron 6 cylinder engine (the stock motor) vs a lighter weight aluminum V8 (the AP05).
Isn't tweaking fun??
I also programmed the two aileron servos as flaperons (Flaps and Flapavators, switchable, for super tight loops and super slow landing). Also added ail>rudder mixing and flaps>elevator compensation mix (after testing this elev trim mix isn't needed.) just because it's possible. After reviewing all the previous vids, this baby already slows nicely for landing anyway but what the heck.
I'll update this post as I learn more about this setup.
Edit 11/22/10 - I decided that having the ESC cutting off defeats the purpose of adding the high power motor. Props and timing aren't cutting it and since I've gone this far I'm going to go all the way. I removed the AR6400LBL and installed the AR6400L and an XP-7A ESC which should be almost a wash on weight (acutally lighter).
Upon opening the cockpit hatch I find that there is a molded rear rail position that seems designed for the smaller AR6400L, behind the current brick location so I installed it there. The pushrods will be shortened by about 1.5".
I'll locate the ESC up forward in the battery bay for short motor wires and to balance out the relocated brick.
Edit 11-25-2010 Happy Thanksgiving to those who partake, we had a major feed around here, I'm semi comatose now...
I've completed the mod, the new setup came out really well, the empty weight with AP05, XP-7A ESC and AR6400L with voltage dropping diode came in at 4.24g lighter than stock and fully loaded with Hyperion 240Ma Cells it's 0.82g heavier than the stock 120ma setup so I'm very happy with the result. Just need to test fly, hopefully tomorrow if the winds are OK.
I hot glued the brick in place, and used a dab to tack the ESC in place up forward. I decided to glue the top hatch with dabs of silicone glue instead of tape so it would be easier to just slice it later if I need to get in there. Less build up than tape I think.
Just a tip when programming these AR6400's, be sure that your TX channels are "Normal" and that none are reversed (I.E. from a previous model setup) as you might program a mode that you weren't expecting, ask me how I know this... I could cost you a few hours of your life trouble shooting. There is a mode where the BL Motor output holds a valid ESC signal fixed at low throttle, who knew?
Edit 11-26-2010 Maidened Today, It Flys! It flys Great! Today the weather was near ideal, clear, 60 degrees, 0-3mph wind. I walked out my backyard and down to a small school below me, not a soul around. I liked the "Cap-Cam" idea and spiked a 1/4:20 carrage bolt into a ball cap bill, attahed a Canon Point-N-Shoot to it, and shot the maiden.
The power system works great, no ESC whine. It can leap off in 3ft, go vertical, and stay vertical right out of site. As others have commented, it flys like a much bigger model, tracks very well, I used full rates with 30% expo and it felt good. I've not flown a lot of biplanes and it's like flying a box-kite, a bit of getting used to on the orientation.
I shot a bunch of landings, it has a much more forgiving flair than the Suk's which are a little "snappy" when flared too much. I think the key to its great ground handling is that the main gear are a bit more forward of the C/G and flex more or something. This plane settles nicely just doesn't want to nose over like the Suks tend to do. I try to taxi with full up elevator as a general rule, it keeps the tail planted which keeps that tail wheel steering working best.
Flaperons, they are definately worth programming in if your transmitter can handle it.
As Flaps, from previous flap experience, I added down elevator mix with down flap, I programmed my flaps on the Tx left side lever to allow continuously variable flaps instead of a switch. I was suprised to find that the Beast dives big time with this compensation. I ended up removing that mix entirely as this model has basically NO trim change with these flaps down, odd. I also have the rudder mix with aileron below 1/3 throttle and I found that the Beast floats in even softer and is still fully controllable with the flaps fully down.
As Flaperons, I have a switch set to mix elevator>flap which makes for VERY tight loops. Again, just a fun easy tweak.
Additional Mixing discussion from questions I've had. I uploaded my JR X9303 Tx config and attached above if anyone wants it, I posted a link to DX Tx programming info above as well, here is what the surfaces need to do;
Mix1 - Flaperons (ailerons as flaps), I programmed the left variable lever to bring both ailerons down as far as possible. Normal position is the lever is max to one side and the ailerons are neutral. Rotating the lever to it's other extreme pulls both ailerons down. They still function but when way down (past 45 degrees on some setups), the plane will no longer roll well, or will even roll/yaw the wrong way (adverse yaw) due to the high drag. If you picture both ailerons drooping way down, then give full right aileron, the right aileron might rise to now neutral while the left aileron will drop even farther. If the plane is going slow, the left wing now has this huge flap dragging on it while the right wing is "normal" trim with its aileron neutral so the plane may really yaw or twist to the left instead of banking right (aka adverse yaw). Hopefully you can picture this and the next mix is to help this situation.
Enter Mix 2 - This is Aileron>Rudder mix, now giving right aileron also gives right rudder. The enable or On/Off switch for this mix is assigned to the throttle stick, when my throttle stick is below 30%, the rudder is coupled to the aileron. This prevents the adverse yaw condition and retains roll control with heavy duty flap deflection.
Mix 3 - This is just a fun mix, Elevator>Flaps, as you move the elevator up, the flaps go down, elevator down and flaps go up (above neutral, like spoilers). The On/Off enable switch is set to the gear switch. The beast will do very tight loops with this enabled. This mix on other models like sailplanes and high wing flat bottom Cessna's etc. allows them to easily fly inverted where they wouldn't (with down elevator alone) without the added lift from the flaps when inverted.
Those are the main mixes I have in the Beast, I hope it helps!
Flight times, I set the timer for 8 minutes and flew a mix of cruise and burst, I landed after the timer went off and still had some reserve left. I've now put 2 flights in the morning and 5 this afternoon and think that a timer of 8 min is good for these 1.5 year old well used Hyperions. I flew to cut-off once and it pretty much falls out of the sky so it's better to have some reserve... So far not a scratch.
The afternoon flights were off the street in front of my house, 5Mph cross wind to the street. Vertical take-offs were helpfull as cars were passing by here and there. In wind it does get josstled and does occasionally pitch up or down pretty severely at times but the controls respond well, lots of authority.
Knife Edge, If I could fly them, it would help. This is the first model I've had that does them easily, at less than 1/2 throttle. I'll be working on this from here on with the Beast cause it looks cool on edge.
All in all I couldn't be happier with the model and the mod, the plane handles great, and looks great. The Horizon team have a home run here and if you are inclined to tinkering, this mod just improves on the theme.
Next Update will be battery tests, New Hyp 240's, New 320's and possibly some ThunderPower 45C 320's to find the acceptable/tollerable weight range.
Edit 12-12-10 I've made up Hyperion 320ma Packs and they are all right at 18g each. This puts my Beast at 66.43g with 320's which is about 0.9g heavier than the Stock Beast with optional 180ma pack. I also decided to return to the stock JST battery connector and to just make 2 cell packs for this class model, I'm sure there will be more in our future.
I also re-located the ESC below the battery tray and replaced the hatch tab with a wafer thin C/F tab to allow all battery sizes to fit in the bay.
Next on the list was to add a thin piece of C/F pushrod material to the leading edges at the root of the bottom wings to prevent ripping should the plane do an unintentional cartwheel. Pictures below.
Edit 12/12/10 Bummer, it was a PERFECT, Winter?, day today, 85 degrees, ZERO wind, and I had too many home projects to make it out to fly, arrgh. I completed the battery mounting by making a small "U" frame from 6mm depron to hold the 320ma packs at the right C/G. I tried dressing the wires rearward and forward, settled on forward as it's a lot easier to work with the connectors. I was also concerned that a wire could hit the brick with the pack shoved far back with them running rearward.
Edit 12/27/10 Well, Winter came, kinda all at once, and we got 8.7" of rain in the last 5 days which was our TOTAL rainfall for 2008, but today it's again clear and zero wind and about 60 degrees. I took the Beast out to try out the new Hyp 320 packs. I flew 4 packs, all were charged just over two weeks ago and this was the first flight for each pack so I'm sure they will improve. I set my TX timer for 10 minutes and flew mixed flights much like my maiden, I still suck at knife edge but I got about 50 minutes of stick time to work on it! The Beast still has unlimited vertical, even after the 10 min timer went off and I usually flew another minute or two before landing so the 10 minute timer is conservative. I played with the flaps a lot and they are for sure a fun addition for very "floaty" landings and very slow and gentle takeoffs. I tried full flap take-offs where it takes off super slow, then rotate to vertical and roll off the flaps and roll on the throttle, it just goes straight on up and up. The 320's are just great, weight is approx 1 gram over stock with 180 pack so performance is still very good. Tomorrow I'll hopefully get to fly it in a one day only event at a Blimp hanger, my 1st indoor experience, hopefully smooth...
Edit 12/28/10 Blimp hangers are, umm, HUGE! I flew today at the EL Toro Blimp Hangers with my buddy, his son, and about 30 other mixed R/C and FF folks. It was a blast! I brought my modded Beast with 320ma packs, a stock 4-Site with Hyp 180's, and my modded 2-Cell Suk with AP05, flaperons, and lights on Hyp 240s. I was a bit worried about indoor flying as I've never done it before but it was easy as this space was huge.
I flew the Beast with flaps at various angles and with full flaps and rudder coupling it really can fly low and slow in dead still air.
The 4-Site (1st time out of it's box) was a hoot, talk about slow motion, wow.
The 2Cell Suk was by far the fastest, I could only blip full throttle and it would rocket where pointed. The flaps were really helpful here! The lights look awesome indoors, really visable.
My friend had a new, box stock Beast with 120ma pack. His son flew it quite a bit and it had very good vertical performance. He did a ton of low/slow (approx 3-5ft) flying and his run times were very good, seemed like 5-8 min. My Beast has a bit better vertical and much longer run time but the stock Beast is a great plane.
We flew our 6 models all day and not a scratch, great day!
Edit 01/16/2011 I've started to put together a detailed comparison of a box stock Beast and my AP05 Beast.
Here are current the weight comparisons, the modded Beast does have the C/F lower wing root reinforcement which the stock doesn't yet have but it's still 4g lighter than stock.
I added the "C/G helper" strips to a stock 180ma and my Hyperion 240ma packs and brought both beasts out for some comparison flights this morning. I picked up a new Canon (SD4500IS) point and shoot with plans of a video comparison. This camera has full HD and more important, continious autofocus which is new in a point and shoot. Sadly, in video, the camera was making an audible "click-click-click" and the aperature seems to be snapping full open, then normal, over and over. Gotta love out of the box failures... So, here's the story.
67 degrees, 150'ASL, Wind 0-2mph
Maidened Stock Beast on stock 180ma pack (AUW 65.69g), it needed only a few clicks of trim. Vertical was very respectable and the plane is super quiet, the ESC does make an interesting "harmonic singing" sound in the middle throttle ranges. I made repeated approaches, quick rotations at 3-5ft and vertical climbs thruout the 6 min timer. I set 6min as this was the 1st flight on the pack.
Stock Beast 2nd flight with new Hyperion 240ma (AUW 66.72g). The Stock Beast with 240ma pack weighs only a gram more than the 180ma. The vertical was noticeably better and I could tell no difference in flight. I flew 8 minutes on the timer and had good to moderate vertical thru the whole flight.
Modded Beast 1st flight with new Hyperion 240ma (AUW 62.76g). This setup had noticeably better vertical than the stock Beast which is probably a combination of the 5x3 prop, AP05, AND lighter weight. I flew mixed flying for 8 min on the timer. It is louder as well, no ESC Sounds, but motor/prop noise, maybe balance?
Modded Beast 2nd flight with Hyperion 320ma (AUW 67.16g). This is 0.44g heavier than the stock Beast with a 240ma pack. Vertical performance was still slightly better than stock. I flew for 10min on the timer and worked on my slowly improving knife edge skills..
Modded Beast 3rd and last flight with 320ma pack, I was shooting full flap landings with quick vertical takeoffs. At 30feet, going vertical, the prop departed the aircraft I rolled out and glided back, no problem. I even found the prop/spinner I have always kept an eye on these GWS spinner adapters with the 2 cell AP05's because in static runs the props like to fly off. In flight the plane is moving so the load is lower so they don't usually depart in flight. Guess its time to use a bit of CA on it!
Conclusion, the stock Beast is very respectable indeed. I'm happy with the modded beast which I would peg as a nice improvement over stock, not a radical one. I know that the modded beast has better vertical airspeed as the plane can climb straighter without correction. The stock beast wanted to torque roll and needed more correction. But heck, rolling vertical is much easier, and looks good to the fans as well...
I will be building a thrust stand and comparing all of my UM's very soon on the bench for more consistant comparisons. I also just made up Beast JST adapters for my watt meter as well.
Here's the maiden video, forgive the rambling comentary, and it's just the raw footage, but at least it's in HD...
|Dec 04, 2010, 01:48 AM|
Just thought I'd post this link to this "Official Beast Mod Thread" so that the two may possibly become the one "Official Beast Mod Thread"
|Dec 04, 2010, 02:10 AM|
I just setup flaps/flaperons with my DX7. I'm fairly new to planks, but fly pretty well (flying helis for two years). I'm even more new to setting up flaps/flaperons. I've got things working pretty good. It took some time to figure out that I had to change modes in the brick to enable channel 6 and then reverse channel 6 to get them working the correct way.
I've got it set so that the flaps are at zero when the 3 pos switch is in flap0, 25% at flap1 and 50% at flap2 (Land). I can also use the rocker switch to give more or less flap deployment for each switch position. Then I programmed in the Aileron/rudd mix to be activated when in flap2 (Land) mode at 33% throttle. When above 33% throttle all the flaps and mixes go away. I also added the flap/elev mix on another switch, like you mentioned, just for fun.
It all seems to work on the bench, as does the anomaly of the left aileron going full up when loss of signal occurs, and then returning to neutral after reacquisition of signal. Does what I've done sound correct? If so, what kind of numbers should I be shooting for in the mixes and flaps? (flaps are set for 0%, 25% and 50% with additional available via the rocker switch) Aileron/Rudd mix is currently at 25% and the Flap/Elev mix is at 25%. I don't know enough about, or have any experience with flaps, mixes, etc. to know what percentages to start off with. I'm sure I'll have to make adjustments after some test flights, but a good starting point for reference would be much appreciated.
My only plank experience is many hours of sim time, flying the crap out of the Parkzone T28 all summer/fall. I've pretty much reached the limits of what the T-28 is capable of. I've got several successful flights with the Beast, just getting used to her. While landing during my last flight I broke the prop so I'm waiting on some replacements to arrive. I like the idea of having flaps to slow down my landings and I want to get this right before I try and take her up again. Thanks for any advice you can provide.
|Dec 04, 2010, 07:00 AM|
Chicago Northwest subs
Joined Jan 2007
|Dec 04, 2010, 10:49 AM|
I'm easy, what should we do here? I made the thread for the purpose of attempting to organize the most common tweaks onto the first page of the thread. I'm happy to close this thread but the other looks like it will be another streaming thread that will be hard to search
|Dec 04, 2010, 12:00 PM|
Keep this as the pure mods thread, the other one has good stuff in but is already getting diluted. We need a quick and concise reference thread.
|Dec 04, 2010, 12:22 PM|
What would happen if you changed the output FETs on the stock receiver? Would that allow the current draw that you need you or do you think the processor is sampling the current draw and cutting it out? Assuming it might be sampling the draw, could a component be changed so that it sampled a smaller amount so it thinks it is drawing under the limit?
|Dec 04, 2010, 03:07 PM|
I do think it's perhaps a bit of both, the FETS look like good ones compared to the XP-7A and I'd bet they could handle a little more. I've not got the setup to change SMT FETs so that's out for me. I do think there is a programmed element here as well where the ESC does have a safety cuttoff which would probably defeat the FET change.
I wish they would allow a way to remove the safety and let us proceed at our own risk.
For now I'm a fan of the AR6400L and 1.5g XP-7A, the combo is lighter, more capable, and individually replaceable. Plus I prefer the ESC to be close to the motor, keeping all of the heavier wires shorter. The only downside is a bit more wireing which is easy.
|Dec 04, 2010, 03:10 PM|
|Dec 05, 2010, 09:50 AM|
Chicago Northwest subs
Joined Jan 2007
|Dec 05, 2010, 11:48 AM|
The user manual mentions a 3.5 amp over current protection so it will be finding where they sample the current and changing the resistor they are measuring across to determine that current. It looks like this resistor is probably on the back side because I can't see anything obvious in the picture above. Sorry I don't have one for testing so I can't help past that point. I would also look up the specs on the FETs and make sure they can handle more current, the manual suggests 5 amps half a second, they may not have enough heat sink to handle more than this for an extended period of time and may require gluing a chunk of aluminum on them for a sink.
|Dec 05, 2010, 01:18 PM|
Right, but mine was cutting even lower it seemed. In any case, brick microsurgery plus adding a heat sink is really pushing the limit of what makes sense in terms or reward cause I think spirit of the integrated "lighter weight and simpler" brick is then lost. The XP-7A has more power "headroom" for yet more powerful motors, and is lighter. But I'd still love to see someone give it a shot!
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