|Sep 24, 2014, 06:29 PM|
Guillow Conversion - Sopwith Camel - 801 - Reduced 75%
Hello modelers and readers alike.
I have been lurking here the past few days reading all about the various scratch built planes from different manufacturers with deftly clever strokes.
I have been building and destroying balsa planes for quite some time now and was not aware there were as many people like myself out there.
On to the Kit!
When I was younger, I built this 801 using an enormously heavy GWS LPS "C" (if I recall correctly) with some 800mAh NiMH bricks, hs-55s and whatever flavor hitec FM I was using at the time. Back then, I wasn't too aware of such aeronautical terms like "incidence" and "CG" but was VERY familiar with TLAR and the plastic Snoopy from the farm playset behind the controls.
I recall the maiden where it went straight up, in a few circles, then straight down, back into kit form. I was crushed, but not as much as the plane. (Woodstock was never recovered)
Fast-forward to today, where I have numerous kits under my belt, the most recent using the AR64XX series from Spektrum and the little PZ motor gearboxes with them, I chose to reduce the scale in order to utilize the on-board liner servos which weigh practically nothing: Guillows Spitfire, a Dumas Cub and a Dumas Staggerwing. (No pics of those yet)
Sopwith Camel 801 reduced 75%:
Key features I wish to include this time around:
Got some initial building done. Decided to add some reinforcement on the top spar of both wings with carbon fiber rod, which was also used (in bar form) as 'slide guides' for the removable receiver.
Cunning item this time around is my cowl. Three layers of 1/4" and a layer of 1/8." Used a hole-cutter on the three layers then cemented on the solid fourth. With much care, I inscribed a 1/16" rabbet for an internal 1/16" plywood motor mount to rest, circular. To make this also removable, without adding any additional mass with fasteners, I removed some space for the Cowl magnets to sit flush with the plywood motor mount. This way the Cowls magnets make contact with the Fuse magnets -through- the plywood motor mount. (the mount is the meat in a cowl-fuse sandwich)
TLDR: pics below
*Edit - Changed Title type to "Build Log"
-Thank you glewis
|Sep 24, 2014, 07:54 PM|
Go back and edit your original post. Go advanced and change the title or subject flag.
I built the Guillows ww series Camel. 18" span from the DPC kit and used a equipment tray like you have done.
I can dig up some pics if you want to see it.
|Sep 24, 2014, 08:07 PM|
A couple of pictures would be most welcome, thank you.
Because I am building a reduced version, I will not have access to the plastic parts originally supplied with the guillows 801, which handled the open cockpit, guns and their mount to the fuse. I will need to probably sheet my own contours here and make some guns out of drinking straws & balsa. Any detail on those areas would peak my interest and give me ideas.
|Sep 25, 2014, 05:28 AM|
18" span from the long discontinued Guillows WW series.
Yes, the control rods are attached with magnets. The cowl along with the motor, brick and battery detaches from the fuselage as a unit.
The laser cut short kit is available from DPC Models. Check them out.
The cost is so low, it's not worth the time to cut your own parts!
|Sep 25, 2014, 04:46 PM|
Thank you for the pictures, Glenn. I am getting some ideas for the fittings around the Cowl and guns from your model. I also like the wooden paint job on the prop - I didn't even think to try that.
In case Dave K was asking about my conversion:
The pushrods-to-reciever will be neodynium magnets, 1/16"-diameter, 1/16"height discs.
The wingspan of my 75% 801 kit build is measured at just shy of 21."
Working on the wheels
two layers of 1/8", wood-glued cross-grain, cut with a hole-saw sanded by hand.
Put a wooden dowel in the hole left behind by the hole-saw and drilled a smaller center hole in that.
I used some post-it notes and a compass-cutter to find a good size circle to shape into a cone for the outer hubcaps. The post-it-note turned out to be great prototyping material, as it allowed me to stick and re-stick the angle of the cone until I was satisfied. I'll use this as a template to make the real hub-cap out of 1/32 balsa, moistened to bend into the cone, then add some flavor to it.
I plan on boring out the hole a little larger and installing a nylon bushing to go over the CF axle I have for the gear.
Anyone tried experimenting with "liquid electrical tape" or "tool dip" or something along those lines to make tire treads on balsa? I'll put some on some sticks and include results in next update. I don't want to ruin the wheels I already made if the stuff isn't going to hold up well to runways. Penetration depth into the wood is the concern, I think.
Bottom Wing Incidence
If the reader recalls, my target is 0-deg. The Guillows 801 appears to have several degrees of incidence...
The unknown angle in a right triangle can be found by calculating the inverse tangent of the ratio of the opposite side versus the adjacent side.
It appears to rise one centimeter over twenty using my guesstimation tools, and the inverse tan of that is 2.8-ish. (if we consider the flat bottom of the fuse as our reference.)
I can easily lower those front holes and flush the bottom edge of the wing with the fuse. That will aid in lining up the wing incidence (zero) as well as making it easier to add in dihedral when I make my choice on that.
|Sep 25, 2014, 05:14 PM|
I made my wheels in a similar way. Cross grain balsa core with 1/64th ply facings.
Bearing tube is aluminum. The cone is 1/8 balsa sanded to a cone. Tires are 1/4" neoprene cord.
|Sep 27, 2014, 01:40 PM|
1/16 Vickers, 0.8g each
Guillows 801 reduced 75% makes the scale 1/16 instead of 1/12.
I needed Vickers, so I made a pair.
I made one first - then proof of concept allowed me to take photos and show a second one in assembly.
I started with a drinking straw. I then used 1/16 balsa, sanded round (or round-ish) and held parallel with some tape. Wrapped those rods around the straw and glued them in place. I then fashioned a plug to insert into the straw to create the barrel-end of the Vicker, then sanded round to match the ribbed barrel. I glued a hollow balsa box on the back for the back-end, and added some balsa bits for flavor, to simulate the mechanisms on the top. Using a lot of swear words and patience, I drilled six holes around the barrel and squared them off with a knife and square file. sort-of.
Not my best miniature work, but they will have to do for this Camel. With the guns built, I can start guesstimating the top part of the fuselage.
|Sep 28, 2014, 11:22 AM|
I have made quite a bit of progress on the Camel.
Upkeep first, though:
Thank-you Spring, JIMA and rdyklwt. I appreciate the kind words.
I learned a lot reading the forums here; it's time I gave back what I can.
Thanks to having a pair of finished Vickers, I can continue with the Fuse. I put some 1/32 sheeting on the top and added some wire insulation split down the side as a cushion for the cockpit hole. Everything is eyeballed and sanded so there are mini variations in heights etc. Hard to see at this scale, so I'll let it go. For the sides, I sheeted again and added some oval sheets for the access panels. Bolts are simulated using lightweight plastic rod. Just drill a hole, insert rod, cut at a nub. Box formation cut at an angle and a hollowed dowel for the exhausts.
On to the fun part!!!
1.5-gram 130hp Clerget Rotary Engine! [Scale 130 hp ]
This was a bear of a build, but totally worth it. I made a balsa tinker-toy circle larger than the park180. Sanded a drinking straw, then tediously wrapped it with thread, tacked down with CA (Heat sinks.) These were installed in the tinker-toy holes. Two of the pistons are visible underneath the Camel in the engine-cooling channel over the landing gear. These were given toppers with the rods connected to. The other pistons' rods were glued to their surfaces. The inside of the hole is lined with post-it-note paper, for smoothness. I glued 1/16 balsa in between each piston for the bolt-casing and melded them into the casing with some tissue. Thicker plastic rod was glued into tiny holes on the piston for the spark plugs. Little holes are drilled for thread to be glued into the case to the pistons' spark plugs.
The completed assembly is given a generous coat of dope to smooth things out and seal stuff together. It fits just inside the cowl and snug against the sides. It will be painted before installed after some light sanding and further smoothing.
All-in-all I am pleased with the progress so far. It will be interesting to see what additional holes and imperfections are discovered when I prime these miniatures, but hey, that's what lightweight joint compound is for.
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