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Old Aug 25, 2011, 07:15 PM
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carbondale il
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Build Log
Guillows 27 7/8" P-40 Warhawk

While I'm waiting on Esaki Japanese tissue for the 28" Hellcat I just picked up this kit at the local Hobby Lobby. It's got laser cut parts and I haven't even opened up the box yet.

Kev
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Old Aug 25, 2011, 07:39 PM
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carbondale il
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Out of the box.

Here are the parts. Not shown is the white tissue which I won't use though it seems to be better than the usual Guillows tissue, the decals which I definitely am not using... I'll get the graphics from Callie's, the hard parts for fuel powered flight and the printout with the instrument panel. I'll spend an hour studying the plan.

Kev
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 01:03 AM
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The fuselage side keels are 1/16" thick x 3/8" and they taper toward the rear. I'm going to cut them down to 1/8". I've placed spacers in the 3/8" former notches to make them 1/8" deep. The wood in this kit is light.

Kev
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 11:34 AM
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 11:38 AM
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What's wrong with the decals? or are Callie's just a whole lot better/more accurate?

howell
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 11:58 AM
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I've always had problems with the Guillows decals, I always get air pockets. Callie Graphics makes vinyl stick on graphics. I've used these and they are outstanding.

Here are the formers. I maybe shouldn't have cut them down but I did. I've also cut the keel down a little.

Kev
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 01:11 PM
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Does anyone know of a way to get rid of the burn marks caused by the laser cutting other than sanding? This was discussed awhile back but I haven't been taking many notes.

Kev
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 01:20 PM
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South Africa, GP, Johannesburg
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Hi there kev, nice bird! just following along
I have read many of your free flight posts wich are quite interesting last time I heard you were gonna build the thomas morse scout. mayby next?
It's verry rare to find a kit in South Africa so I just scratch build from printed plans mostly peanut scale and Hlg's. unfortunately my printer is broken so can't get my walt mooney p-40. now I will follow yours

Mike.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 01:28 PM
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Sanding the chared wood lightly is probably the only thing you can do don't attempt to bleach it this will only warp the wood. can you see the discoloration through the esaki?
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 01:45 PM
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I have heard wood glue is best for chared wood joints rather than ca I hope this helps abit. personaly I have never used laser cut parts but I bend balsa with the base of a soldering iorn that leaves scorch marks too.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 02:26 PM
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mastermike, Burn marks showing through the tissue depends on what color you use. The Esaki blue does okay but that's about it other than black. I hope to be using Easy Lite tan and olive green. It probably would be okay under the green but not the tan. I enjoy sanding so that's what I'll do. To build the Thomas Morse Scout will require a large order of contest wood, can't afford that just yet. BTW, my printer is out of ink, too.

I always like people reading!

Kev
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 04:54 PM
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I think I read that Hydrogen Peroxide applied with a damp Q tip would remove the marks. IIRC, he did it after building the plane so it woulnd't warp.

howell
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 05:04 PM
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Thanks howell, I'll try it on a scrap piece. I just happened to buy some hp recently.

Kev
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 05:54 PM
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I just tested accetone on a piece it actuly worked with a Q tip, takes a lot of rubbing, wich ever you use do it before glueing, im shure you figured that part.
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Old Aug 26, 2011, 07:01 PM
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Actually I was going to wait until the frame is built...trouble?

Kev
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