Originally Posted by SON OF PALEFACE

FWIW....I think this is a FUN plane not a 3D ...its not deigned for 3D , there are much better planes for that....any plane can just hack around the sky , I have fun low and slow seeing how slow I can fly it ect......so I slow it down and then pop the flaps with what I think is the right amount of down mix for that flap position..........whatever turns your crank.....

I was very pleasantly surprised at just how slow this plane could fly. I'm a big fan of low and slow myself. Most of the models I fly are not built for speed. I like to relax. The Fun Cub could be the perfect plane. Slow when you want it. Power when you need it.

So it looks like my fc will take a few more days, somehow between 3 weeks ago and now I managed to lose the sotog mount. Ordered another.

Originally Posted by mbreslin

So it looks like my fc will take a few more days, somehow between 3 weeks ago and now I managed to lose the sotog mount. Ordered another.

You said I could take it. Geeze.

When will it stop Gene, when will it stop.

Originally Posted by mbreslin

When will it stop Gene, when will it stop.

I think it's around 12/22/2012 or so. Not sure.

How far did you guys extend the linkage cover/tubes toward the rear of the plane? Just long enough to fill the groove and the rest just the bare wire?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by mbreslin

How far did you guys extend the linkage cover/tubes toward the rear of the plane? Just long enough to fill the groove and the rest just the bare wire?

Thanks.

I made mine go about an inch past the grooves.

Also glued a little foam block under that last inch to angle the tubes out where they need to go.

Thanks Sammy. Next question.

From Prof100's blog: "On next FunCub 2 build use the approach seen below that Landcruiser used, that is use a scrap piece of push rod tube glued into rudder"

Can someone explain the purpose of this a little?

Thanks.

So that the tail wheel wire won't be riding inside the foam rudder only.

Glue a section of c/fiber tube or plastic tube into the rudder and then slide/glue the tail wheel wire into that tube. Clear as mud?

Originally Posted by Sammy70

So that the tail wheel wire won't be riding inside the foam rudder only.

Glue a section of c/fiber tube or plastic tube into the rudder and then slide/glue the tail wheel wire into that tube. Clear as mud?

Got it, thanks.

Originally Posted by mbreslin

Thanks Sammy. Next question.

From Prof100's blog: "On next FunCub 2 build use the approach seen below that Landcruiser used, that is use a scrap piece of push rod tube glued into rudder"

Can someone explain the purpose of this a little?

Thanks.

It is just a much simpler way to form the wire and mount the tail wheel gear. The stock design is a regular rubics cube of a design.

Originally Posted by Azarr

1. Is there an ideal flap speed?
2. Am I correct in thinking I want to set a delay in the elevator compensation so that it reaches it's position at the same time the flap does?

I mostly fly 3D stuff, lots of experience with flaperons and elevators moving opposite each other for tight maneuvers, but none with straight, scale type flap use.

Azarr

1. Whatever you choose is correct.
2. Well, yes. If you want to make your task easy, use one of THESE. It has more features than you need. But, it will do anything that you desire.

AJ

Originally Posted by Prof100

AJ,

No, the Funcub will fly best with a low KV motor. Never mind the modifications you will have to make to mount it in the FC. Keep the little MicroDan 2505's for SS and pusher jets. The MD 2510, 970 KV would work if you wanted to build a lightweight Funcub. http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/inde...&ref=MD2510-LE

The MD2505 and Grayson Super Mega will both work fine in a SS, Easy Star, etc. I do believe the 34 gram weight of the MD 2505 is a distinct advantage. For me, I am hooked on Microdan motors.

BTW, Dr. Kiwi, as I recall, never tested the 2505, 2535KV motor. He tested a 1800kv or so.

Bill

That is precisely what I want to do. Since we have shared ideas together several times, you figured out what I was up to right away. Some people lack imagination. Your suggestion is perfect for my needs. Thank you very much for your input. Also, I am planning on getting rid of the LG and never setting up ailerons and flaps. I am pretty sure I can still balance it using a 1500mah LiPo. I will use whatever it the lightest I can use and still get CG. With several other weight reduction methods, I think I can get the FC below 33 oz. Of course, I will start with a brand new one. I will order just the foam stuff because the rest of the stuff I need, I can build a lot lighter. Thanks again for your feedback.
AJ

Originally Posted by Prof100

...
The stock design is a regular rubics cube of a design.
...

The stock design is just a 90° bend in the wire also. You just do the bend in another direction, so that you can glue the wire more firmly to the rudder horn.

Jürgen

Originally Posted by ajbaker

...
Also, I am planning on getting rid of the LG and never setting up ailerons and flaps....

In this case it is no longer a FunCub, but an EasyCub, which is much better suited for rudder/elevator only, because it has the correct dihedral for that.

Jürgen