In an effort to introduce new combat flyers to thrill of RC Combat, the Radio Control Combat Association created a new all SPAD Combat class featuring the SPAD GNAT

Cheap and easy to build, durable and flies great....Perfect for beginners and club combat.

They build very quickly for little money and are more durable than most SPADS. I built mine in the pic below in under two hours.

You don't need building skills and could have a club build party to complete a fleet of planes.

The basic rules are simple:
1. Looks like a GNAT
2. SSC motor and prop (.15 size with MA 8x3 prop)
3. NO STICKY STUFF!!!
4. NO weight restriction!

They turn tight enough to cut their own streamer!






Vist RCCombat.com for complete rules:




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Looks cool. I like that wing design. Might try to merge that design with the SNS.

Here is pics of my newest Gnat using a different wing attatchment method.

Does the wing work the same as the regular wng, or better inverted or? What material is the motor mount made from. It doesn't look like the regular cutting board plastic. I used Lexan for one and it seems to work, but I haven't crashed it yet.(that day will come)

Originally Posted by aspeed

Does the wing work the same as the regular wng, or better inverted or? What material is the motor mount made from. It doesn't look like the regular cutting board plastic. I used Lexan for one and it seems to work, but I haven't crashed it yet.(that day will come)

There is some difference in flying characteristics between the two wings. The flat wing seems more stable to me.....but then again wind conditions could have more to do with that than the wing.

The other wing as I built it is at a positive angle of attack in relation to the incidence of the fuse and engine.
With a flat wing all incidences are zero and seems to "hunt" less. But with this type of wing I'm not asking for much.....it pretty well flies on the prop anyway.

It still flies like an scrap election sign with a motor




The engine mount is cut from a hdpe cutting board from Walmart.....just a different color than usual.

Lexan should do the trick.

I used the Walmart cutting board and it broke on a pretty good hit. I just made one with lexan because I didn't have a big enough piece to use. I have lots of lexan. I think it is stiffer but would likely break too, but maybe that is better sometimes.

I got a question. I know the plans call for 1/2"x3/4" u channel. I got 1/2"x1/2". Will that effect anything as far as wing shape once the wing goes on?

I doubt the wing shape would matter, it is the same height I think. just the servos wouldn't fit inside the rail which could be a non issue, and it would be somewhat weaker.

Alright I got my gnat all put together, set base trim to as neutral as possible.

Now my next question is about CG. The plans say 4 1/2" from the leadin edge. When I balance I there she is extremely nose heavy. But just behind the spar it's somewhat neutral.

Now I know it's better to have it nose heavy for the maiden flight, but when is it to much?

Also I added about 1 1/4oz and moved my reciever pack back by the rear staberlizer and it seems to balance out alittle better but still nose heavy.

Also I have a OS max FP .20. Is a 9x8 master airscrew prop to big?

Any suggestions?

Originally Posted by new user

Alright I got my gnat all put together, set base trim to as neutral as possible.

Now my next question is about CG. The plans say 4 1/2" from the leadin edge. When I balance I there she is extremely nose heavy. But just behind the spar it's somewhat neutral.

Now I know it's better to have it nose heavy for the maiden flight, but when is it to much?

Also I added about 1 1/4oz and moved my reciever pack back by the rear staberlizer and it seems to balance out alittle better but still nose heavy.

Also I have a OS max FP .20. Is a 9x8 master airscrew prop to big?

Any suggestions?

The CG on the plan is wrong. They fly better at 3 3/4"

The 9x8 will be too much prop for that engine. Try a mas 9x4

Originally Posted by Dane McGee

The CG on the plan is wrong. They fly better at 3 3/4"

The 9x8 will be too much prop for that engine. Try a mas 9x4

Alright thanks, it is close to 3 3/4" ill double check in the morning

I found a PDF file on the engine and it also recommends a 9x4 or 9x5.

Thanks for the info. Also what should I expect tomorrow when I maiden this thing?

For maiden, select to high rates, go full throttle and give it a underhand toss into the wind and be ready to trim it out.

Both of mine wanted to pitch up on launch even with all control surfaces at neutral until I got it trimmed.

Remember, its a flat sign....so be ready to take control as soon as it leaves your hand..........it won't take just a click or two to get in trim usually.

Good luck and report back

Originally Posted by Dane McGee

For maiden, select to high rates, go full throttle and give it a underhand toss into the wind and be ready to trim it out.

Both of mine wanted to pitch up on launch even with all control surfaces at neutral until I got it trimmed.

Remember, its a flat sign....so be ready to take control as soon as it leaves your hand..........it won't take just a click or two to get in trim usually.

Good luck and report back

Alright, any suggestion on what the High rates should start out at? I'm not at my controller at the moment to tell you what I have them set at right now.

Lol Ill try m best to trim it out on the fly since I have no idea what to expect for this maiden. I know my first attempt was with a electric it wanted to pitch up and turn left.

This technically will be the 1st nitro I have flown since knowing what the heck to do. It's raining here today so hopefully I find a break in the weather. But 1st a new prop.

Thanks dane

I'd start at high rates at 100%....then after you feel comfortable with it after a few flights, then you may want to make high rates 140% or whatever the highest rate is in your radio.....make it all she will throw for some fun almost 3-d flying action.

Have fun!

Sounds good.

Thanks again Dane