Originally Posted by ThomasLee

Spring install on my new tail, 0.5mm wire, 25mm center leg, installed legs into short aluminum tubes. I chose this spring design because it's more reliable than the in-line design which tends to flip around on occasion and requires a piece of tape to prevent it doing otherwise.

Thanks Thomas!!
-dave

I've not had the flipping problem and not needed tape. I suspect the issue is the angle of the 90 degree bends in the wire and the radius of the 180 degree bend. If the latter is not made a very tight bend, then a small recess is provided in the hingeline, it will stay in place in the unstable position of a straight control surface. That is, it cannot get past the skins. If the angle of the 90 degree bends is made to be just slightly less than 90 degrees, but the ends are put into the control surfaces at 90 degrees, then there is a slight force holding the wire into the hingeline.

So, when the surface is bent away from the hinge gap, then this slight force holds the wire in place. When the surface is straight or bent towards the hinge gap, the width of the 180 degree bend prevents that end from popping out as it has to get past the skins.

Gerald

Dave,

You might try re-zeroing your altimeter before figuring out your launch height. Looks like you got some free altitude from sensor drift. Still a good launch though!

James

Where is a good source for switch jacks? I thought I had one of Paul Daniels awesome switch jacks but I think I got the last one before he closed up and its lost in the mail somewhere between here and there. I haven't seen any other good jacks that I don't have to build myself. Any thoughts? I would love for it to have low voltage alarm as well.

Also on the JR 285's MG or no MG?

also how about the spektrum A3030? Sounds like it should be a winner in the pod. Anyone use them yet for DLG?

Thanks
Matt

No MG, and never heard of the spectrum ones but would probably be fine. I'd suggest a short servo to facilitate moving the servos as far forward in the pod as possible.

James

Why no MG James? I love my 285MG. After 1000 crashes, they still work great. Wheres the 285 with non MG in the Blaster 3 are a pain to pull out to change the striped gears. Just asking.
Wayne

MG tends to develop slop over time, nylon and carbon-reinforced plastic gears are best for our use.

Thanks Gerald, my legs are <90deg but my 180deg bend maybe too large? I think there's about a 0.5mm gap there. Will have to try again some time.

Matt, I got mine from Ken here on RCG, xwingnut. Not sure if he still makes them but darn good and a great price. I still have a couple I'm saving for my planes! If you're interested I have the 385 (same as 285's) and D6011's (for wings) as a bundle, just let me know if you need a set.

Thomas

James here you go. All that hot air just rushed out of the balloon... it was only 204

Originally Posted by ThomasLee

MG tends to develop slop over time, nylon and carbon-reinforced plastic gears are best for our use.

Thanks Gerald, my legs are <90deg but my 180deg bend maybe too large? I think there's about a 0.5mm gap there. Will have to try again some time.

Matt, I got mine from Ken here on RCG, xwingnut. Not sure if he still makes them but darn good and a great price. I still have a couple I'm saving for my planes! If you're interested I have the 385 (same as 285's) and D6011's (for wings) as a bundle, just let me know if you need a set.

Thomas

I probably forgot to say, but the insertion angle needs to be 90 degrees. The slight angle difference tries to hold the "free" section into the hinge gap when the gap is open. When it is closed, the closing of the skins keeps it from coming out. Having the 180 degree bend not being super tight helps this as well.

Anyway, like I said, I've not had problems. But I've only done the tails on one plane with pull spring, as I rather prefer carbon pushrods. I do not think carbon pushrods are heavier once one factors in the spring and the methods of reinforcing the stabs to take the spring ends. I do think carbon pushrods are definitely more solid. I consider that to be important, particularly for rudder.

Gerald

"MG tends to develop slop over time, nylon and carbon-reinforced plastic gears are best for our use. "
But there is no slop in a string /spring system

MG gear servos are also heavier.

Gerald

Originally Posted by Airbud

"MG tends to develop slop over time, nylon and carbon-reinforced plastic gears are best for our use. "
But there is no slop in a string /spring system

Yes there is, it's called gear lash. It kills precision.

Mike

Mike,

Gear lash is removed in the pull-spring system by maintaining a torque against the servo, at all times, in one of the rotation directions. Additionally, the system establishes a linear force against the output shaft, reducing free motion there. The net result is that a servo with insufficient output shaft support or with sloppy gears can still be made to work well. In practice this means that some servos may be suitable for a pull-spring system that are not suitable for a pushrod system, of the same requirements. On the flip side, the static torque takes away from the servo's available torque and holding power in that one direction, but adds to it in the other. That asymmetry may or may not be an issue, depending on the application.

It is not my favorite system but it certainly has its uses.

Gerald

Never thought of that, you learn something new every day.

Mike

Thanks for the info guys!
I might try the spektrum servos, price is right. Maybe get some 285's to back them up just in case? I will definetly be asking you for some D6011 wing servos here in the near future Thomas, might as well throw in a new CF Neos while your at it

Matt


high speed?
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...ervo-SPMSA3010

or high torque
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...o-SPMSA3030#t2