|Jun 20, 2012, 07:17 AM|
Joined Jul 2008
The new KK2 FC, info and Q&A in first post. Read it before asking a question.
FW V1.1 here. (Do not use, but read page for information about the FW.)
FW V1.2 here. (Do not use, but read page for information about the FW.)
FW V1.3 here. (Do not use, but read page for information about the FW.)
FW V1.4 here. (Do not use, but read page for information about the FW.)
FW V1.5 here. (Same as V1.4, but with added camera stabilization support. See video below.) (Do not use, but read page for information about the FW.)
FW V1.6 here
Do not use metal hardware to mount your KK2. It may short out the PCB tracks and break the KK2.
Hi all, I designed this one to be easy to use for the noobs, and still be better than the KK1.
The gadgets-freaks will not pitch a tent over this one, It is the same, tired old AVR-chip. (Sorry TC ) However, it runs on a 20MHz crystal, so output resolution and jitter is better than before.
-No confusing potmeter directions.
-No gyro reversing needed since the FW is for a fixed HW setup.
-Self-leveling. It uses acc tilt-angle measurement.
-No PC necessary. All adjustments and multicopter type selecting is done with the LCD and buttons.
-The transmitter setup can be checked before first test. (channels and direction)
-low drift gyros.
-graded low-voltage-alarm, adjustable in 0.1V increments.
-motor numbering and propeller direction is visible on the LCD.
It will become open source when the first update is available. But beware, it is still written in Evil Assembly!!
The first 17 seconds is with the KK1, the rest of the video it is with the KK2: (Self-level is not used)
Set the gains and limits to the following values:
Roll/Pitch P-gain: 30 (For a small 25cm size set to 20)
Roll/Pitch P-limit: 100
Roll/Pitch I-gain: 0
Roll/Pitch I-limit: 20
Yaw P-gain: 50
Yaw P-limit: 20
Yaw I-gain: 0
Yaw I-limit: 10
Now, Increase Roll/Pitch P-gain by 10 (5 or less for a small aircraft) at a time, and test your aircraft response by hovering and move the left stick in short and fast movements.
See this video:
As you increase the gain you will notice:
1: The aircraft reacts faster and feels more connected to the stick movement and wander less on its own.
2: The aircraft may oscillate for a short time. Usually a few oscillations, but may be more if gain is high. If it oscillates continually the gain is too high.
3: The aircraft may be harder to land, it bounces back when touching down.
4: The aircraft may climb.
When the aircraft has a good response and does not oscillate or climb when testing, P-gain is good.
1: Trim it level.
2: Fly fast forward and center the stick.
If it level itself, increase I-gain.
If it stays in attitude, I-gain is good.
Alternatively setting I gain to 50-100% of P-gain does the trick.
Increase Yaw P-gain by 10 (5 or less for a small aircraft) at a time, and test your aircraft response by hovering and move the Yaw control stick until it have
yawed about a quarter of a circle, and then center it.
As you increase the gain you will notice:
1: The aircraft start and stops faster.
2: The aircraft overshoots less.
2: The aircraft may start to climb or descend.
When the aircraft has a good response, has a minimum of overshoot and does not climb or descend, P-gain is good.
Alternatively, set it to 100% of Roll/Pitch P-gain
Increase Yaw I-gain by 10 (5 or less for a small aircraft) at a time, do the same test as above.
When the aircraft overshoots even less, I-gain is good.
Alternatively, set it to 100% of Yaw P-gain.
If you have a small and not dangerous aircraft, you can disturb it around the yaw-axis and see if it returns. increase if not.
It is generally good to keep the gain values in the low range. Excessive gain may introduce vibration and control issues.
Also look at this video:
1: setup the TX as described in the manual.
2: Connect the motor ESC to the RX as ordinary.
3: Connect a BEC to output#8, to supply the servos. Leave output#1 unused.
4: Using the mixer editor, find and connect the servos to the other outputs.
5: If you need to reverse a function (aileron, elevator, rudder), negate all mixing values for that function on all servos that are used by that function.
6: If you need to reverse a servo, negate the mixing value for that function on the servo in question.
7: adjust the stick scaling to get the required stick response.
8: adjust the mixing values to change the throw.
I recommend setting the I gains to zero when testing.
Alternatively, you can wait for HappySundays OpenAero firmware: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1568554&pp=100
Q&A: (Some of the text is borrowed from other users posts in this thread.)
Q: It lists "Singlecopter 1M 4S", does that mean it could be used on say a Trex450?
A: No, but it is possible to configure the mixer for a heli. I will get me a cheapo 450 and see how well it works as a flybarless controller!
Q: Is it possible to write FW on this controller to use as standalone Camera gimbal like the multiwii?
A: Yes, I will write a camera gimbal FW for it.
Q: How does the low voltage alarm work? I can not see any connections for input V?
A: The Battery voltage input is the unpopulated hole to the left of the yellow component. Connect a cable from battery+ to this hole. The ground return is through Output #1's ground wire. Go to "Misc. Settings", "Alarm 1/10 volts:" to set the threshold. It is in 1/10 volts, so 10.5V is entered as "105". The LVC is only active when battery voltage is below the limit. When it goes above, it stops. Also it beeps faster the lower the voltage is below the limit.
Q: Does the aeroplane mode also include autolevelling? or is that only available for copters?
A: It is available for planes too, but that combination is not tested. I will do it when I get more KK2's
Q: CPPM input mode?
Q: If the gyro can work on 2000 deg/sec, why not make the 2000 deg/sec as the working output? Which solder jumper need to be mod?
A: The 440 deg/sec gives a higher resolution. The jumpers is on a horizontal line below the two black chips at the top. From left to right: X, Y and Z axis. The pads already connected with a trace is 440 deg/sec. Cut this trace and connect (solder a thin wire) the center pad to the opposite pad to get 2000 deg/sec. Be careful not to short out the trace that runs in between the pads.
Q: Why is Autolevel so slow?
A: The autolevel is based only on the ACC. It takes some time before the ACC registers tilt due to the horizontal acceleration of the craft when tilting. It needs some speed to get air resistance and a force on the ACC. Therefore the autolevel works best on draggy crafts.
Q: What are the "limit" values in "PI Editor"?
A: About the "limit" values. They set the maximum of the available motor power to be used for correction. 100 is 100%. The "I limit" value is also known as "anti wind-up" in PID theory.
The limits is most important on the yaw axis. The prevent a large yaw correction from saturating the motors (giving full or no throttle), causing no control of the roll/pitch axis.
The default values permit 30% ("P Limit" 20 + "I limit" 10) of the motor power to be used to yaw correction, making 70% available for the roll/pitch axis, the most important ones.
You can increase "Yaw P Limit" for faster Yaw response. Note that Yaw response is also limited by the craft itself.
You can increase "Roll/Pitch/Yaw I Limit" for increased heading-hold "memory", that is how far it can deviate and still return to original attitude. Too large memory can cause problems if you have a "blow out" on one of the axis, tries to correct it with opposite control input and then when the blow-out conditions disappear, the craft will try to return to an unknown attitude.
Unless you know what you are doing, leave the limit values as default. Default values has no impact on The PI tuning process.
Also leave the self-level "I gain" and "I limit" at zero. The I part of the self-level algorithm does not work well, this will be fixed later. (Accelerometers is too slow)
Q: Could you explain in detail how does the Height Dampening and Limit works?
A: "Height Dampening" in "Misc. settings" uses the Z accelerometer to dampen vertical movements caused by wind or tilting the craft. "Height D. Limit" Limits how much power available for dampening. Try 30 for the "Height Dampening" and 10 (10%) for "Height D. Limit".
Q: Why does my Peizo buzzer keep making a beeping noise no matter what values I put on the "Alarm 1/10" voltage settings?
A: You must connect the battery voltage input to the battery. See question 3.
Q: Can I use the KK2 with a cheap HK 4 ch radio?
A: That will be fine but if you want to turn on/off the auto level function you will need to do that at the LCD where as a 5th channel will enable you to do it from your transmitter.
Q: I accidentally adjusted the contrast such that I cannot read the screen now.
Does anyone know how to do a reset to default contrast?
A: Turn the KK2 off and on again.
push button 4
push button 3 (four times )
push button 4
push button 3
push button 4
push button 1
push button 3 (36 times)
push button 4
Q: In Tricopter configuration the LCD motor layout suggests that all the motors rotate clockwise. Is that correct?
A: On a Tri any combination of CW and CCW can be used, but the best is to have one of CW or CCW and the other two in the other direction.
Q: How to reverse the yaw gyro for a tricopter?
A: Go to the "Mixer Editor" and change the channel (number to the upper right) to 4 where the yaw servo is connected. Then change the "rudder" mix value to -100.
Q: Why that nut job of a ESC calibration sequence?
A: I know that some of you will try to calibrate the ESC with the propellers on, so by requiring to hold down buttons while calibrating, you will probably let go of the buttons and cause the motors to stop when the propellers start to slice through your arms. Also this makes it impossible to leave the ESC calibration on permanently. Why two buttons? In case some buttons get stuck, it will not enter ESC calibration mode accidentally. I see some defeats this by using clothes pins to press the buttons, but I recommend getting help from a friend. Of course, if you do remove the props, use the clothes pins!
1: Arming LED stays on when entering the menu in "arming always on" mode.
2: LCD is sometimes blank on power up. Press menu to get the text to appear.
To do list:
|Jun 20, 2012, 07:39 AM|
Joined Mar 2009
KK , you are the man, the board looks really nice. I did notics though, that one config was missing. the Y4 setup for people that might want to use this on a V-tail quad. either way though it will be great for the new guys.
|Jun 20, 2012, 08:03 AM|
OK kapteinkuk, I realise you will open source it eventually but can you release the circuit to save me the effort reversing it? Pretty please?
What about the LCD? Can you point to any datasheets about driving it?
Any help is much appreciated.
|Jun 20, 2012, 08:35 AM|
Here is a buddycode, get it for $19:
I am planning to enter the multi-rotor world, so I have ordered one of these, I hope I will be able to successfully make a tri-copter and a quad copter, I wonder which one is easier to maneuver for newbies.
Thank you for the buddy code, I apreciate all your hard work, and I hope more good things will com to this little board like magneto and barometers and gps hold and stuff
Greetings from Cluj-Napoca, Romania!
|Jun 20, 2012, 08:37 AM|
Joined Nov 2008
|Jun 20, 2012, 08:38 AM|
|Jun 20, 2012, 09:18 AM|
This is great! The "stick scaling" will make this great for those without expensive computer radios! Multicopters are getting so easy to get into!
And a ?
What are the flight characteristics with the autolevel? Do you still have control when it is on, or does it take control like an autopilot and level the multi until you turn it off?
|Jun 20, 2012, 09:22 AM|