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Old Jan 11, 2011, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by DoomsDay View Post
The problem with the spacers though is that unless you glue the pegs into the body, you have a greater chance of them coming out. And trust me, if you do any crashing at all, those extra grommets will be needed lol.

Also, it should only take a couple minutes to shave off a small amount of plastic off that center bar to get clearance. I really dont see it as being harder or longer than doing the spacer thing. but hey, everyone sees things differently so if it works for you then its just as good as anything else others do.
I've crashed mine dozens of times and have not had to replace anything yet. I even slammed it into a tree when a wind gust caught it, knocked the front canopy off and still have the original grommets. Besides, the grommets are only $1.99 for a set of 8 at the LHS. Using the CFTB O-rings only used up about 10% of the engagement and still provided the spacing needed. Very simple fix.
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Old Jan 11, 2011, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dreja View Post
Hello,
I hope this was not posted here yet..

To all who have problems with carbon tail boom vibration, there is a detailed solution by thestar22 on youtube.

It seems that main shaft is touching the landing gear, and this causes the vibration.
The solution of this guy is to place small spacers where the landing gear attaches to the mainframe.

http://www.youtube.com/user/thestar22#p/u
Thanks for the tip!

Once I inspected, and saw how close it was, I modded mine even though I am running the monocoque tail.

While I was in there, I also checked for interference of wiring with servos, main gear striking side of front canopy (I've heard and seen pictures of that before) or any other obvious signs of interference, and everything seemed to check out. It's amazing how well engineered these little critters are.

Went through three batteries this evening, and it is such a kick!
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Old Jan 11, 2011, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffpack1957 View Post
I think you could make some spacers out of sheet plastic (I have in my machine shop in varied thicknesses) instead of grommets, and then not need to add any glue to landing gear.

Just a suggestion from a total noob
Mine seemed nice and snug, even with the grommets and no adhesive, but I appreciate the OP mentioning that it could (or has) falllen out on him. There is no positive locking engagement between the post and the receptacle for the skid assy, but depending on your model and how often it's been apart, you may or may not feel you need removable adhesive there.
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Old Jan 11, 2011, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
Mine seemed nice and snug, even with the grommets and no adhesive, but I appreciate the OP mentioning that it could (or has) falllen out on him. There is no positive locking engagement between the post and the receptacle for the skid assy, but depending on your model and how often it's been apart, you may or may not feel you need removable adhesive there.
I took mine apart twice this evening, first to put in the grommets and the second time to replace them with the O-rings from the CFTB. This is the first that I have taken it off and it seemed very tight when I reassembled it the second time. By the way, I thought of another reason not to shave material off the bar that hits the shaft. It is the spring bar that holds the battery in place. Taking material off of it will hold the battery less securely and possibly allow it to slide out.
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Old Jan 11, 2011, 09:13 PM
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Charlotte Douglas, NC
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Originally Posted by TheOldFart View Post
I took mine apart twice this evening, first to put in the grommets and the second time to replace them with the O-rings from the CFTB. This is the first that I have taken it off and it seemed very tight when I reassembled it the second time. By the way, I thought of another reason not to shave material off the bar that hits the shaft. It is the spring bar that holds the battery in place. Taking material off of it will hold the battery less securely and possibly allow it to slide out.
I disagree. We are talking about the outside of the center bar. It would have a minimal effect on the battery holder but would fix the issue of it touching it. To be honest, it doesn't even need that center bar. It will stay in place just fine without it.
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Last edited by DoomsDay; Jan 11, 2011 at 10:15 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 12:02 AM
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Yah, cut a lil out o mine with a razor blade.....took me 10 seconds....no more rub....still as strong.....happy customer...
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 01:42 AM
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Help

I have replaced the front left servo bracket on my bird. Now when i throttle up it spins counter clock wise cant gain altitude. Any ideas why this could be happening?

Also the main motor plugs that plug into the 5in1 board is it the black and white wire plug it to the left socket and red and blue into the right socket?
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 05:05 AM
Hovering is a way of Life
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Arizona
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Originally Posted by TheOldFart View Post
Mine looked like it might be touching, so I did the spacer mod. Installed the CFTB again, but it still has the same tail vibration.
If the shaft is touching you will likely find a black powder around the tip of the inner shaft that is contacting the skid bracket. The tip of the shaft drills a hole in the plastic when it makes contact.
mine does not touch but I have seen others that do.
I also had vibration with the CFTB installed but it went away when I adjusted the sliding weight and made sure the CFTB was pushed all they way into the main frame.
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 05:10 AM
Hovering is a way of Life
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Originally Posted by DoomsDay View Post
I disagree. We are talking about the outside of the center bar. It would have a minimal effect on the battery holder but would fix the issue of it touching it. To be honest, it doesn't even need that center bar. It will stay in place just fine without it.
The center bar also prevents the inner shaft tip from piercing the battery In a hard crash situation.
It should be ok to remove some plastic material as long as you leave enough to protect the battery in a crash.
The O-ring fix does have the benefit of moving the battery farther away from the inner shaft tip increasing battery protection in a crash.
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jtravel View Post
The center bar also prevents the inner shaft tip from piercing the battery In a hard crash situation.
Exactly.

Lipo fires are no fun, even for a battery as small as the mCX's.

As well-engineered, but minimal as this heli already is, I would not be for chopping out ANY bracing or support on it, anywhere. On the huge metal helis, sure they do have extra junk, and might be hugely overbuilt, but this thing is already so 'optimized' and light, that I would not want to remove any part that might be needed to contribute to structural integrity.

Again the grommet-on-the-pin fix seems to me to be a pretty darn good fix, and with minimal downside - the slight possibility of losing your skids, only if they are too loose and you also fail to put some adhesive on them.
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
Exactly.

Lipo fires are no fun, even for a battery as small as the mCX's.

As well-engineered, but minimal as this heli already is, I would not be for chopping out ANY bracing or support on it, anywhere. On the huge metal helis, sure they do have extra junk, and might be hugely overbuilt, but this thing is already so 'optimized' and light, that I would not want to remove any part that might be needed to contribute to structural integrity.

Again the grommet-on-the-pin fix seems to me to be a pretty darn good fix, and with minimal downside - the slight possibility of losing your skids, only if they are too loose and you also fail to put some adhesive on them.
Its not like you would be getting rid of it completely. Your only removing a small portion so it doesn't rub. Now, really think about what you just said. The heli is already optimized and yet your going to EXTEND the landing gear (making it easier for the landing gear to fall out) and add more weight with the grommets and glue if you decide to now glue your skids back in (which I advise against). Versus removing a very small portion of plastic. Yeah, and which do you think would effect the helicopter more?
Like I said, to each their own, but removing a small portion of plastic is just as good as the other option with less time and hassle and worry if your landing gear is going to come out. But hey, they both work.
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 12:31 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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Originally Posted by jeffpack1957 View Post
btw, can someone tell me how to mount my cf training gear on my MCX2?
Jeff, on such a small heli the training wheels are not needed. If anything it will change the characteristic of the flight. Start off with plenty of room and just start with bunny hops. Just make sure you get it up enough (about 2') to get it out of the downdraft once you are comfortable doing bunny hops.

@ Others, I have an mcX where the skid assembly will move down (and sometimes completely off) from the main frame. I use "Sally Hansen" clear nail polish right at that joint where the skids connect to the frame. I was using it to keep those small grommets on but that didn't work out so good. Hardened the grommets to the point of cracking apart. I also use the Sally Hansen for screw to plastic applications to keep screws from backing off/out at critical points.

Mike.
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 12:44 PM
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Puyallup, wa.
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thx

I did figure out how to mount them, but they are poorly designed and built.

I flew once with them, and then discarded. For a first time flyer, I'm now flying all about the big room, landing, taking off, etc. I just get abit lost sometimes if the bird gets away from me, and its nose toward me.

Just switched to my DX7, and got it trimmed up and flying this morning. Took the rubber grommets from the training gear, and used them to space down the landing gear, so the battery brace doesnt touch the main shaft.

This little bird is a hoot to fly.

One thing I did notice if anyone has any thoughts, is the swash plate servo arms seem to lightly graze the canopy body opening. Doesnt seem to have any impact, but I cant believe its helping anything either.

Maybe tonight I'll switch to the CF tail boom.
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 12:58 PM
Hovering is a way of Life
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoomsDay View Post
if you decide to now glue your skids back in (which I advise against).
You wouldn't want to glue it in as that would make it hard to remove for repair.
I have no worry of my skids falling out.
Heck My MCX2 Skids fit so dang tight that I need to use needle nose pliers to grasp and pull them out of the mainframe.
my solo pro skids were loose and I used Ca glue to lightly coat the skid pin and let dry. once completely dry I reinserted it into the mainframe and had a good tight fit.
The clear nail polish idea would also do the trick that was mentioned.
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 01:01 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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The Sally Hansen clear nail polish has been on there for almost a year now and has not moved

Mike.
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