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Old Jan 14, 2015, 12:44 AM
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Build Log
Paleo Pitts Bipe

Hello folks. I'd like to share my plans for the Scratchbuilt Paleo Pitts. The design of this plane is sort of a combination of 3 of my favorite foamies, the HK EPP Pitts the TH Crack Pitts and the HK Reactor. I wanted a foamy bipe that would be simple to build but rigid and light with lots of power and good 3D performance. The HK Pitts performs well, has a profile fuselage and is fairly rigid but is not nearly as floaty as the TH Crack Pitts. Also, the HK Pitts lacks rudder authority from the smaller rudder. The Crack Pitts is incredibly light and floaty but it is a bit flimsy. That is good for keeping the weight down but there is a lot of flex between the wings and fuselage. And the split fuselage is a more tedius build than a profile fuselage. The performance is light and floaty and fantastic for sure. The HK Reactor has a profile fuselage with side strips to provide extra rigidity, much more than other profile foamies. And its performance, both high speed and 3D is exceptional with an upgraded more powerful motor.
So those were the design inputs I used for the Paleo Pitts. The fuselage is a profile similar to the Reactor with additional side panels and CF to add rigidity. This makes for a very easy fuselage build with good rigidity. And servo installation and replacement is much easier on profile fuselages than split fuselages. The upper wing is similar to the TH Crack Pitts but the lower wing has a straight leading edge like the HK Pitts. The idea being to to provide good stability in harriers with the straight leading edge of the lower wing. I added CF rod struts between the wings to provide more rigidity and less flex of the wing box on high G maneuvers. The final decision was the power plant. I originally used a 2206 1500KV motor which worked well on 3S but the CG was a bit too far aft and I opted to use the more powerful heavier 2208 motor, which also corrected the CG issue which is now spot on. The 2206 motor would still be a good choice on this plane if the servo's were moved forward a few inches to allow the lighter motor and battery to bring the CG to where it needs to be.

Materials for the build:

1 - 24" X 36" sheet of 9mm EPP
1 - 24" X 36" sheet of 6mm EPP
2 - 1mm X 3mm X 1000mm CF strips (wingspars & fusalage)
3 - 1mm X 1000mm CF rods (fusalage & elevator/rudder pushrods)
2 - 1.5mm X 1000mm CF rods (wing bracing & aileron push rods)
1 - thin CF sheet 0.5mm thick (for pushrod guides & servo extensions, comes in 6" X 10" size)
1 - tube of welders or Goop (I used Goop)
1 - can spray adhesive (I used CRC Spray adhesive available at Harbor Freight)
3 - small paper clips for Z bends
2 - tie wraps for securing ESC and wires.
Heat shrink tubing (to secure Z bends)
Thin plywood, fiberglass or plastic to make motor mount and control horns
Felt pens for painting

Please Note: The Plan below can be printed to the proper size on 13 pages and tiled to make templates by doing the following:

1) Download the plan
2) Open the plan, it is in PDF format
3) Select File and then go down to where it says "Take Screen Shot" and click
4) Then choose "from selection"
5) A message comes up on the screen stating to move the crosshairs over the area you want to take a screen shot from
6) Hold down the mouse key and drag the crosshairs over the vertical stabilizer. When you release the mouse key it instantly takes a snapshot of the area, in this case the vertical stabilizer.
7) Now open the snapshot file. Click on File and then Print. A print screen pops up and shows the vertical stabilizer on normal paper size, fairly small.
8) Then click on scale and choose a higher percentage until it appears about right based on its dimensions which easily fit onto normal paper. I used around 350%.
8) Print the Vertical stabilizer and then measure the height as stated on the plans, it will probably be close to within 1/2" or so. Then print again making adjustments to the % until it matches perfectly. It took me 3 or 4 tries but I got a good match.
9) Now you know the % to use on your next screen shot print, it will remain the same for all future prints regardless of the area selected. It will take 2 prints to make the horizontal stabilizer and these are then tiled together, very easy actually, you can tape them or in my case I just layed them on the template. The wings and Fusalage take several prints each, but again once you know the % to use for printing its fairly easy. Hope this helps.....Jim

Paleo Pitts Scratchbuilt RC Plane (3 min 41 sec)
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Old Jan 14, 2015, 12:51 AM
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Step 1

Step 1
Print out the templates and cut the foam to size. 9mm EPP is used for everything except the fuselage which also uses 6mm EPP. Cut 2 for the fuselage, 1 from 9mm EPP and 1 from 6mm EPP. Also cut 2 long rectangular strips of 9mm EPP 2" X 24".
Now assemble the fuselage. Begin by laminating the 9mm EPP and 6mm EPP fuselage cut outs. Spray with CRC Spray adhesive or any good adhesive. Don't over due it, I sprayed on quite a bit and it added 10 grams of weight! Just get it tacky and let it set up a couple minutes and then press the 2 halves together. Place it on a flat surface with soup cans or books to keep it flat. Let it cure an hour or so. Now take the two 9mm 2" X 24" strips and cut a 3/16" deep slot down the center of each one. Cut 2 pieces of 1mm CF rod to 24" each. Push them into the slots and glue them with CA. Use the CRC spray adhesive again to glue these strips onto the sides of the fuselage as shown on the pics. Place on flat surface with weights and allow to cure. Now determine your servo positions and cut slots to receive your servos. I suggest placing the rudder and elevator servo 2 or 3 inches further forward than what I have on mine to move the CG forward. Be sure the servos are not so far forward that they interfere with the ailerons. I prefer a press fit for my servos for easy removal with just a dab of Goop on the outside to prevent movement. Now cut out your servo extension arms and push rod guides from the thin CF sheet using scissors. Use a tiny drill just a bit larger than 1mm to drill holes at the ends of the guides. We will install the guides later but the servo extensions can be glued to the servo arms and the servo's installed into the fusalage. Be sure the aileron servo extension arms are at roughly the 9:30 and 2:30 position to allow equal up and down movement of the ailerons. Next make the motor mount cross piece. I used the lid from a 5 gallon bucket but fiber glass or thin plywood is probably better. Glue it to the front of the fuselage making sure the mount is at exactly 90 degrees to the longitudal axis of the fuselage (or CF rods in the fuselage). Now cut two 3/16" deep slots along the lower fuselage front section (refer to my hand in the pic below). Push two 1mm rods into the slots. 1mm CF rod is flexible and it will bend to this radius. Use push pins to keep the rods in place and add CA to secure them, then remove the pins. This reinforcement is necessary when landing gear is not used
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Old Jan 14, 2015, 12:53 AM
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Step 2

Step 2
Lets build those wings! Start by inserting the 1mm X 3mm CF strip spars into the wings as per the plans. A soldering iron with a screw driver tip shaped nail works well for making the channel, refer to the pic. The tip is easily made from a nail filed flat and inserted into the soldering iron (refer to Youtube for details). Place the CF spar into the channel and fix with CA. Next we will make the hinges. The ailerons are sliced off at a 45 degree angle and bonded to the wing with a thin film of Welders or Goop. Again, Youtube has many videos showing how to make hinges in foam. You will also need to cut the dog leg slats at the end of the hinges near the wing tips, refer to the plans and pics for location. I cut mine around 1/8" wide and did some additional trimming afterward so that the ailerons cleared the wing without rubbing when moved full travel. If you plan to paint your wings this is the time to do it. I drew my paint design onto the wings and used felt tipped markers to fill in the color. Worked quite well. The upper ailerons are actuated by slave rods connected to the lower ailerons. These require horns to be inserted into the trailing edges of the wing as shown in the photo. Refer to my pics for a rough location of where to put the horns, exact location is not critical but be sure they are spaced the same on both upper and lower wings. For more details on making these slave rods refer to Youtube video on making the TH Crack Pitts.
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Old Jan 14, 2015, 12:54 AM
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Step 4

Step 3
Lets put those wings on the fusalage. Start with the lower wing and use generous amounts of Goop or welders between the mating surfaces. Check that the wing is perpendicular to the fuselage. Also adjust the wing so that the distance from both right and left wing tips to the aft end of the fuselage are both equal. This is important so take the time to get it right. Let glue cure. Next prepare the 2 wing spacer struts. Add 1 X 3 mm CF to each strut as per the plan and fix with CA. Now insert the struts into the slots in the lower wing and make sure they are perpendicular to the lower wing. Use Goop to fix and allow to cure 20 minutes or so. Now attach the top wing to the top of both struts and fuselage. The inserts on the strut ends and fuselage should fit snugly. Use Goop to fix. Check the wings from every angle to be sure everything is perfectly aligned before curing. Let this set for an hour or more before continuing. Finally, strengthen the leading edge of the lower wing to the fuselage with 1mm X 3mm CF strip as shown in the pic. This greatly reduces lateral movement of the wing to the fuselage making the plane more rigid.
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Old Jan 14, 2015, 12:58 AM
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Step 4

Step 4
Make hinges on both the horizontal and vertical stabilizers. Insert the horizontal stabilizer/elevator into the slot at the tail of the fuselage and fix with Goop. Be sure it is perfectly centered and that the measurement from both left and right trailing tip edges to the trailing tips of both wings are equal. Next glue the vertical stabilizer/rudder onto the aft end to the fuselage as per the pics. Let everything set up before continuing.
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Old Jan 14, 2015, 01:00 AM
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Step 5

Step 5
Now we need to add control horns to ailerons, elevator and rudder. You can purchase these or make them from any strong thin material. I made mine from bamboo. Refer to pics for rough location. Make Z bends from paper clips or music wire and attach to the ends of the 1mm CF rod with CA. With 2 push rods completed insert the Z bend end of each rod into the hole of elevator and rudder horns. Thread the 6 CF push rod guides that you made earlier onto the push rod ends, 3 per push rod. Cut the push rods and inch or so beyond the servo arm and run the push rod thru the servo arm EZ connector. With the servo arm in the correct position space the push rod guides equally along the length and make a small slit with your knife for each guide. Push the guides into the slots and adjust so that the rods are straight and not binding. Fix the guides with CA. Now you will do the same thing for the ailerons but use 1.5 mm CF for the short rods. Next is to connect the slave rods between the ailerons. Use 1.5mm CF rod for this with 1 Z bend on each rod fixed with CA and shrink tubing. Insert the Z bend and rod onto each lower aileron. Now insert a Z bend onto each upper wing aileron. The Z bends on the upper wings will be dangling. Next, work with one wing at a time to connect lower wing slave rod to upper wing Z bend. The is fairly critical. Make sure the lower wing aileron is perfectly aligned with the wing, in other words the whole wing surface is flat. Place a soup can or something similar on it to make sure it stays flat. Place a piece of shrink tubing over the slave rod. Align the slave rod with the upper wing Z bend making sure the upper wing aileron is perfectly aligned with the upper wing. In other works, both upper and lower wings are parallel When they are you need to
fix the Z bend to the slave guide with CA, then heat the shrink tubing to secure it further. This can be tricky. I was able to wedge a small piece of foam to the z bend to hold it against the slave guide, but tape or anything else can be used. Just be sure both upper and lower wing are perfectly aligned before fixing with CA. The TH crackpitts build video shows how to do this as well. Now connect the opposite wing slave guide. Next is to add 1.5 mm rod wing bracing between the wings similar to the pics. This step is optional but the wing bracing really stiffens up the wings and reduces wing flexing and bowing during high G maneuvers.
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Old Jan 14, 2015, 01:02 AM
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Step 6

Step 6
This is the final step, you should be getting excited by now! Install your motor to the front motor mount. Install your ESC and receiver. I suggest you place the ESC and receiver a little further back than I have to facilitate a proper CG later on. Connect the servos to the receiver and bind receiver to your radio. Adjust all control surface movements. The pics below show the amount of travel for ailerons, elevator and rudder on high rates. Remember, this is a 3D plane and lots of travel is needed. Your battery location will determine the CG location. Place the battery so that the CG is right at the CF spar of the lower wing. I prefer a cut out on the fuselage so that the battery if a press fit into the slot.
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Old Jan 14, 2015, 01:03 AM
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Step 7

Step 7
Fly it! Check visually that all controls appear to be trimmed and neutral. Low rates recommended for the first flight. If you are using a 2208 motor then hand launch at 1/2 power at about 45 degrees. She will climb nicely. Trim it out, You will find that this is a very easy plane to fly, very steady and predictable with no bad habits. Most importantly, have fun!
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Old Jan 14, 2015, 11:22 AM
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Hey Jim, i am boiling, yesterday your mistake wasted me 63 pages and all my ink, i get no apology!
Today you PM saying the new plan is printing 30",,, i print out again and it is NOT 30" wingspan, but 42" wingspan, it is still a MONSTER and FAR to big to actually make. Now i am VERY annoyed!
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Old Jan 14, 2015, 02:41 PM
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Tony, the plan is in PDF format and it gives the dimensions for the wing, fuselage and other components. I was able to easily print the wing plan from my computer by enlarging the % size on the print page until the wing dimensions were 30". This requires tiling the print pages to use as a template. It is fairly easy to do.
As far as an apology, did you read my reply on the "Foamboard Scratchbuild University"?
Here was my reply "Tony, you are right, the upper wing leading edge is distorted, sorry because I did not notice that before. I just checked print outs of all the others and they are OK, but I will need to re-do the upper wing and re-post it later tonight or tomorrow. ...Jim

The plan shown above is spot on and correct. I have double checked it and the print outs match the templates. It can be printed to the proper dimensions by enlarging the print % and tiling the pages.
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Old Jan 14, 2015, 04:02 PM
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Not everybody has a printer that can change the size, and how would you know what percentage to reduce, instead of helping me,,,, this is the type of man Jim is,, i post his PM to me:-
(Note after wasting 3 hours of my time 156 pages of paper and one and a half cartridges of ink, and NO apology)-
''This is obviously not the plane for you! I apologized on my reply on the post for the upper wing distortion which I immediately corrected. I spent a considerable amount of time making the plans and posting the build log. I never said it would print to 30", I stated the wing width is 30", you have to enlarge the print % until it is correct. If anyone deserves an apology it is me. I suggest you find something easier to build or get another hobby''.

It's just a copy of a Crack Pitts anyway, your a cheater not a designer.
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Old Jan 14, 2015, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlem View Post
Not everybody has a printer that can change the size, and how would you know what percentage to reduce, instead of helping me,,,, this is the type of man Jim is,, i post his PM to me:-
(Note after wasting 3 hours of my time 156 pages of paper and one and a half cartridges of ink, and NO apology)-
'
Wow, that is special! The apology is still there (Foamboard Scratchbuilt University thread, post #4989) for anyone to read. I made an error on the original plan and apologized and corrected it. I'm not selling the plans. Yes, the upper wing is similar to the Crack Pitts, the lower wing is not and the fuselage is a profile. I don't claim to be an aircraft designer, I took the features I liked best from my existing planes and combined them and simplified them. It is an and easier build than a Crack Pitts, stronger, faster and flies just as well, in fact I like it better. Again, I'm sharing the plans and build to anyone who might like to try it, I'm not in it for profit.
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Old Jan 14, 2015, 10:01 PM
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How to Print the PDF Plan

There are probably lots of ways to print the plans but here is how I did it. Just thought I would share this in case anyone has concerns about printing it.
I am using an an old Macbook but I think it is the same form most PC's.

1) Download the plan
2) Open the plan, it is in PDF format
3) Select File and then go down to where it says "Take Screen Shot" and click
4) Then choose "from selection"
5) A message comes up on the screen stating to move the crosshairs over the area you want to take a screen shot from
6) Hold down the mouse key and drag the crosshairs over the vertical stabilizer. When you release the mouse key it instantly takes a snapshot of the area, in this case the vertical stabilizer.
7) Now open the snapshot file. Click on File and then Print. A print screen pops up and shows the vertical stabilizer on normal paper size, fairly small.
8) Then click on scale and choose a higher percentage until it appears about right based on its dimensions which easily fit onto normal paper. I used around 350%.
8) Print the Vertical stabilizer and then measure the height as stated on the plans, it will probably be close to within 1/2" or so. Then print again making adjustments to the % until it matches perfectly. It took me 3 or 4 tries but I got a good match.
9) Now you know the % to use on your next screen shot print, it will remain the same for all future prints regardless of the area selected. It will take 2 prints to make the horizontal stabilizer and these are then tiled together, very easy actually, you can tape them or in my case I just layed them on the template. The wings and Fusalage take several prints each, but again once you know the % to use for printing its fairly easy. Hope this helps.....Jim
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Old Jan 15, 2015, 03:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paleomanjim View Post
There are probably lots of ways to print the plans but here is how I did it. Just thought I would share this in case anyone has concerns about printing it.
I am using an an old Macbook but I think it is the same form most PC's.

1) Download the plan
2) Open the plan, it is in PDF format
3) Select File and then go down to where it says "Take Screen Shot" and click
4) Then choose "from selection"
5) A message comes up on the screen stating to move the crosshairs over the area you want to take a screen shot from
6) Hold down the mouse key and drag the crosshairs over the vertical stabilizer. When you release the mouse key it instantly takes a snapshot of the area, in this case the vertical stabilizer.
7) Now open the snapshot file. Click on File and then Print. A print screen pops up and shows the vertical stabilizer on normal paper size, fairly small.
8) Then click on scale and choose a higher percentage until it appears about right based on its dimensions which easily fit onto normal paper. I used around 350%.
8) Print the Vertical stabilizer and then measure the height as stated on the plans, it will probably be close to within 1/2" or so. Then print again making adjustments to the % until it matches perfectly. It took me 3 or 4 tries but I got a good match.
9) Now you know the % to use on your next screen shot print, it will remain the same for all future prints regardless of the area selected. It will take 2 prints to make the horizontal stabilizer and these are then tiled together, very easy actually, you can tape them or in my case I just layed them on the template. The wings and Fusalage take several prints each, but again once you know the % to use for printing its fairly easy. Hope this helps.....Jim
Man, this is a lot of fooling around, this would be great to know if you wanted to scale up a plan, buttttttt why didn't you make it already at 30" like all the other plans on this site, and other sites?????????????
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Old Jan 15, 2015, 04:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlem View Post
Man, this is a lot of fooling around, this would be great to know if you wanted to scale up a plan, buttttttt why didn't you make it already at 30" like all the other plans on this site, and other sites?????????????
Printed fine for me. Open it with Adobe and choose 'poster', tile scale at 100% and it prints fine, 70 pages tho.
Better still - open in Adobe, go to 'edit' > 'take a snapshot', and highlight just the parts > print > poster + tile scale 100%. This results in 35 pages.
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