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Old Mar 28, 2013, 09:35 PM
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United States, KS, Overland Park
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Build Log
QAV500 FPV build

I've had the frame for a while, but have been shopping around for the rest of the components. I pretty much have everything now so I decided to start the build. I'm going to take my time and make sure I do this neatly.

Frame: QAV500
Motors: Tiger Motor MT4006
Props: Graupner 10x5 (I have 11x5 and they fit but it's a little close)
FC: KK2.0. I love the board and how it flies, but I'm eyeballing the cc3d (or revo if it'll be out anytime soon).
ESCs: F-30A with simonk firmware
VTX: RMRC 400mw 1.3ghz
VTX ant: IBCrazy Mad Mushroom
VRX: RMRC 1.3ghz
VRX ant: IBCrazy Crosshair
Video: Fatshark Dominators
TX: T8FG Super
Batt: Gens Ace 5500 4s 25c

I probably left stuff out, but I'll keep updating as I go.
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Old Mar 29, 2013, 02:45 AM
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United States, KS, Overland Park
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got the esc's soldered to the PCB. one pad lifted and I didn't even heat it long (two seconds tops--i use rosin flux very liberally so the solder flows very quickly even at medium heat on my hakko). oh well, there are plenty of other pads to solder to. i coated the finished connections with liquid electrical tape.

also uploaded pictures of the fpv components. took pics on guest bed which has white comforter so i was able to wash out the background for stock photo look! lol (poor attempt at it, but whatevs)
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Old Mar 30, 2013, 09:58 AM
PGR
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United States, CA, Costa Mesa
Joined Jun 2004
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I'm really curious why you chose to mount all your ESCs with the output lead ends facing the center of the frame. That arrangement requires much longer power and motor wires and all that extra wire has to go somewhere.

I also don't understand why your PDB is mounted with the solder tabs facing out. I get the impression that you're planning on using the space between the dirty & clean frames as a wire deck for all the ESC wiring and connections and that probably isn't such a good idea because anything that can bridge the gap between frames can transfer vibration.

You obviously have to bridge that gap with ESC control wires and power leads for your NAZA & other electronics, but you'll want to do that with loose spans of wire to avoid vibration transfer and with all that other stuff between your frames you probably won't have room for loose spans.

Pete
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Old Mar 30, 2013, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGR View Post
I'm really curious why you chose to mount all your ESCs with the output lead ends facing the center of the frame. That arrangement requires much longer power and motor wires and all that extra wire has to go somewhere.

I also don't understand why your PDB is mounted with the solder tabs facing out. I get the impression that you're planning on using the space between the dirty & clean frames as a wire deck for all the ESC wiring and connections and that probably isn't such a good idea because anything that can bridge the gap between frames can transfer vibration.

You obviously have to bridge that gap with ESC control wires and power leads for your NAZA & other electronics, but you'll want to do that with loose spans of wire to avoid vibration transfer and with all that other stuff between your frames you probably won't have room for loose spans.

Pete
that's because with the motor leads facing to the front and rear, there isn't enough room to put bullet connectors. i probably could have just wicked the leads off and soldered the motor wires directly to the ends of the escs, but that would mean i'd have to leave the ends of the escs exposed enough to solder onto the ends of them. as far as bullet connectors--there just isn't enough room between the end of the boom where the wires come out and the ends of the escs. these F series escs are fairly long.

also, I popped the bobbins on and set the bottom top frame piece onto the bobbins to test fit and there will be PLENTY of room for the wires. i'm not leaving the motors leads full length. i only hooked them up to get the wires right. (hence the solder blobs on the battery terminals, i temporarily soldered a 3s battery on to test the direction of each motor) once I cut the motors wires down to where there's almost zero slack, i'll hook them back up in the current order, and shrink some heat shrink tubing across both sides to keep them from coming apart in flight. (it's what I've always done and have never had a single bullet connector come apart, aside from a crash literally breaking an arm apart from the frame)

bobbons: gives 12mm clearance between plates
widest part of bullet connectors, including heat shrink tubing: 5.5mm

i have micro sized cable ties that I'll use to tie them down to the pcb plate so they don't touch the top plate.

as far as the naza, I have one but it's not going on this guy. I'm going KK2.0 to begin with. I just love how that board flies. Should be perfect for fpv flight. Might join the bandwagon and fly cc3d or revo (if i can find it in stock anywhere) later, but kk2.0 will suffice for now.

Also, the bobbins eliminate vibrations in the X and Y axis, not Z. I could leave 1mm of clearance and the bobbins would still operate as usual.
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Old Mar 30, 2013, 01:03 PM
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oh, and as far as the solder pads facing "out" as you mentioned, that's pretty much how everyone's done their qav's from what I've seen in people's build pictures and videos. I very shortly considered doing it with the solder pads facing inwards but that would make assembly a pain in the rear.
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Old Mar 31, 2013, 12:28 AM
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I got the motors and escs connected/soldered/heatshrinked. cable tied them flush with the PCB plate.

first, I test fit the clean plate and there was about 4mm of gap between the wiring and the clean plate at the narrowest part, and the rest of it was a good 8mm or so.

just out of curiousity, i took four plastic shaft adapters that fit the bobbins perfectly, and used them as spacers to give a tiny extra bit of clearance. sure enough, the bobbin has plenty of thread left for the nuts, and gave another 2.6mm of clearance. so... that's 6.8mm at the narrowest part, and over 10mm for the rest. that will be WAY more clearance that I need. the motors spin on the x-y axis, so the vibrations will be on that plane. the bobbins are designed to dampen the vibrations in those two axis. as long as there's ANY clearance, it'll work just the same as have the full 12mm of clearance. i'm still not sure if I'll use the spacers or not though. longer the distance, the higher the force exerted on the bobbins. meh
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Last edited by serrated; Mar 31, 2013 at 12:30 AM. Reason: I can't type
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 12:30 AM
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United States, CA, Escondido
Joined Mar 2013
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Have any more picks of your completed build?
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 12:32 AM
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got my dragonlink UHF gear in. same with the tripod for my base station. just waiting on dragonOSD. had issues finding it in stock anywhere.

everyone's seen what dragonlink looks like so i'll just post pictures of the tripod. it's an impressive tripod. it's one that's meant to be used for speakers and tv's for PA setups. for that reason, it's incredibly sturdy and large. perhaps a little overkill, but I guess if I ever get a huge helical or yagi, I'll be able to handle it just fine lol
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Old Apr 21, 2013, 03:22 AM
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Nice! I had a couple of those to hold PA speakers a year or so ago and sold them on Craig's list for $20 bucks. I should have kept them!
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