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Old Mar 01, 2012, 10:08 PM
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Bill Smudge's Avatar
United States, KY, Bowling Green
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Build Log
Guillows Hellcat 32-3/4", 1st big build...

Got started on the fuse today, asked for some opinions about putting all the stringers in on the fuse. The experts say go with the stringers so that's what I'm set up for now.

Certainly not a laser cut kit but going together pretty well, so far. Two things I learned reading through a bunch of build threads, I've put to use today; I got a big hypodermic needle syringe and now am using it for my wood glue dispenser, works great.

Also saw "dmccalgon" using magnets to hold the half former pieces together in his Guillows 1004 Corsair build, this really makes glueing the halfs together an easy task.

I just need to take my time and THINK, "measure twice---cut once"


Bill
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 10:31 PM
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It's ...

... well, NICE!

Laramie.
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 02:21 AM
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Looking good – keep up the good work!
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 05:54 AM
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Looking good Bill.
4 grams saved at the tail meens almost a half ounce less weight at the nose to keep the cg in the same spot.
About the 'snakey', don't glue the formers to the horizontal keel until everything is in alignment. Also, make sure the keel just slides in the notches without forcing any formers out of line. Open up the notches if necessary even if it seems like a lot. You can fill the gaps later.
Looking at your pic, the 7th or 8th former back is has the vertical keel bowed a bit. You might need to 'move' the horizontal keel notch on those formers to bring everything into alignment.

Glenn
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 10:44 AM
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Spit and Laramie, thanks for your comments, jump in any time with any help or suggestions.....



Quote:
Originally Posted by glewis View Post
Looking good Bill.
4 grams saved at the tail meens almost a half ounce less weight at the nose to keep the cg in the same spot.
About the 'snakey', don't glue the formers to the horizontal keel until everything is in alignment. Also, make sure the keel just slides in the notches without forcing any formers out of line. Open up the notches if necessary even if it seems like a lot. You can fill the gaps later.
Looking at your pic, the 7th or 8th former back is has the vertical keel bowed a bit. You might need to 'move' the horizontal keel notch on those formers to bring everything into alignment.

Glenn

Thanks for the tip Glenn.

This is the first balsa model I've ever built using half formers and keels, so it's all a learning process

Soooooooooo next time I'll know about the loose keel notch thing.

Now I'm pondering servo placement before I jump into putting stringers in.

I'm thinking ailerons and elevator, no rudder. But I can go full house if you guys think that would be better.

See this pics for my proposed servo location. Probably will use lightweight plastice tubing and small music wire for pull rods.

I belive I'm going with the removeable wing route. Having the wing come off gives all kinds of access, but I suppose you sacrifice strength.

Decisions, decisions......


Bill
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 11:19 AM
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It's not too late to straighten the fuse by cutting a sliver of wood out of the notch. Much better to have everything nice and straight to start with instead of trying to force it into alignment later.
If you are not adding landing gear I would skip the rudder. I use it mostly for landing and taxiing.
I like to attach the wing with magnets, makes for easy removal.
Glenn
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 11:42 AM
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As above
IMO you Must straighten the thing out. Before going Any further.
What seems like 'too much work' now will give invaluable result ..in a few days
Banana models neither look good nor fly well.
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 06:51 PM
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Glenn and Bare I did what you suggested, get the chalkline out I think shes pretty straight now.

Boy am I learning alot on this build, everything I've done before has been box and former. These long fuses with keels add a whole new area to screw up...

I hope I don't offend the balsa purest out there but I like to use a block of blue foam to mount my servos, very light and strong, best of all easy.

I also used a little block of foam to help hold everything in alignment.

Starting to run my stringers now going back and forth one side to the other this will take a while.


Bill
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Looking good Bill. I have one of these I started, but put asside to enter the multi-engine Fun-Build. I'll be following your build closely though.
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 08:54 PM
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Good on You Mate!
Willingness to effect needed repairs/changes is the signature of a competent builder. Yer on well your way :-)
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 09:00 PM
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That looks a lot better Bill, now she's straight!

Foam? Who cares man, foam, wood, paper, heck I don't care if you use concrete.
The fact is you are building the model, not dumping 5 parts out of a box, screwing them together in an hour and call it a 'build'.

Glenn
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 07:29 AM
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Looking good Bill. I like to use rudder even though my models don't have gear because I like to do stall turns and snap rolls. Lack of a rudder limits some of the aerobatic maneuvers you can make.

It will be interesting to see how much yours weighs vs my enlarged 16" version. Good luck and I will be watching.

Jim
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 09:15 AM
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Nice start. Subscribed!

Steve
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
The fact is you are building the model, not dumping 5 parts out of a box, screwing them together in an hour and call it a 'build'.
AMEN!

Fuzz
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 11:41 AM
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Glenn and Fuzz,

Amen-Amen on building vs. "assembling", of course different strokes for different folks.

Thanks Jima and Steve, think I'll leave the rudder off on this one. Hope to be as light as possible, probably no LG either.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Next big decision:

I have built using all the stock stringers, not quite finished yet.,

Which has a greater chance of working well for a newby sheeter/planker?

Strip-planking with 1/16 and sand the heck out of it or go for my first sheeting job using 1/32?

Better yet If I could just convince Jima to plank mine I'll just drop it in the mail to him, he has done a great job on his H-cat.


Mulling over a possible removeable front cowl/motor mount assembly held on by magnets. I did this on a Coment SR-7 I built last December and it worked very well. You pull the cowl off, motor and all, and have a nice big 'ol area for your battery to go right in the front of the bird.


Bill
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