Lolz, let's just say I don't cut, polish, and smoothe my toenails frequently enough for me ole lady.

OIC, that makes perfect sense. I stumbled across an old episode of "Dogfights" on Netflix the other day about the flying tigers. I never knew that's where the sharkteeth originally camefrom and they were Chineese aircraft (well technically at least). Fascinating! Keep up the good work!

Nice.

Where did the wing mold go ????

DE

Originally Posted by D.English

Nice.

Where did the wing mold go ????

DE

100 times on the blackboard for you my eager friend.

"Patience is my hobby; haste, my rival. " - Slow & Low.

New shop - new building season

Wing Mould - Section #2
Flooring Laminate
Old Lamp (tubing)
Furniture Sliders
1/4-20 thread inserts
Aluminum T-slot Extrusion
Carnauba Wax

Hold on....here we go again

Good to see you back at it!

-hutch

Originally Posted by Slow & Low

PS. - I purged those tanks very carefully first with air, then with water - I am not promoting this sort of thing - take them to your Fire Department and ask for their help

Liquid propane in it's gaseous state is heaver that air. Fill the tanks with compressed air, invert them (valve down) and open the valve. That should get rid of any propane. You will still have to deal with the stink from the mercaptan (the stuff that makes it stink) though. Flushing with water is ok, just follow up with some alcohol to remove the remaining moisture.

Ken

These air fittings will be filled with clay and cast in place along with the o-rings. I'll rough up the OD's with a file first to ensure adhesion.

Inexpensive, yes; effective, time will tell.

Are those to help separate the mold halves once everything inside is all cured up?

-hutch

Originally Posted by Hutch

Are those to help separate the mold halves once everything inside is all cured up?

-hutch

That's the idea Hutch - I had the o-rings under the bench and the fittings cost me under $10 in total. Each of them will be pushing down on a wooden insert cast into the lower half. It might work, it might blow the inserts out of the lower section, it might crack the lower cavity, it might do all of the above to the upper tool, and it may just look silly in the end, but l'm gonna find out - slowly as I turn up the pressure mind you...

I opted for the barbed fittings so that it's easy to configure with 1/2" hard vacuum hose. With a pneumatic control valve, and an actuator it might be possible to alternately apply vacuum to help with mould assembly after trimming and prior to joining or alternately positive air pressure to open the mold post cure.

Clay holds O-ring flat to face. (8 places)
Barbed part ejector port also included in saddle area.

well, it better be right 'cause it's kinda permanent...

surface veil to prevent the heavier weaves from showing through over time

6 Oz Tape - Outer Flange Support
9 Oz Cloth - 1st Layer

no point in throwing another $100 in epoxy and cloth at reinforcing this section until I've seen the cavity - if all turns out well, I can always rough it up with a cup wheel on the grinder and lay down a few more layers of heavy cloth

hopefully this will set up enough to remove the forms tomorrow - now we wait....lol