|Jan 30, 2011, 03:38 AM|
MDLCNC foam cutting machine Kit 1
Just put one of these together and thought I would share my experiences.
I bought it from Modellbau Letmathe in Germany.
Here is a link to the product (With Google to translate the German) It's under the CNC Technology menu.
|Jan 31, 2011, 06:34 AM|
Getting the parts
I wanted to do this for several years, bought plans, bought slides... but neve got around to it. So when I saw a kit that I could get in Europe (No expensive freight, Customs) I thought I'd take the plunge and ordered it on their website.
Funny, they did not ask for payment....
I had to do a bank transfer to their account. Including Postage to Spain, it came to €414
Parts arrived just before Xmas, so I put them away till after the festivities.
So In early January I did a Google translate on the German instructions and began assembly. I put all the small parts into a lunchbox and started.
First surprise was that I needed to scrape paint from all the holes as they had been precisely milled before being painted.
Everything went well until I went to fit the first bearing...
No bearings in the lunchbox...
Checked the translated instructions. "Supplied with all bearings, bolts nuts and washers" I had none.
Contacted the suppliers, they apologised and sent me the missing parts straight away.
Back to work.....
|Feb 01, 2011, 03:45 AM|
I wanted to use software that outputs GCode. That allows me to avoid using specialist boards like the MM2001. However I had a MM2001 board and some tiny Nema17 stepper motors that should be good on this foamcutter. I purchased them a couple of years ago and never followed through on a drawer slide foamcutter build.
|Feb 01, 2011, 04:15 AM|
Its working! Kinda...
Once you have all the parts, the construction is very easy. I assembled each side as a mirror image of the other.
I thought I would need some Spyder couplings to connect the motor, but the threaded rods came with one end drilled out and a couple of grub screws to attach the motor.
I got 2 MDF boards and mounted the tower assemblies to them. You see this a lot in most home builds. It makes it easy to store the foamcutter away when it's not in use.
Time to connect the wires and power everything up.
|Feb 01, 2011, 04:29 AM|
I am using Mach3 to control the motors. It's free to use for a small number of lines of GCode. I used a old desktop computer with a paralell port. I'd prefer to use my old laptop, but laptop parallel ports usually dont work with CNC stepper motor drives.
I got a list of the MM2001 pins used from the internet and configured Mach3 like this:
Pins and ports
Axis......Step Pin......Dir Pin.....Dir Low....Step Low.. Port...Port
Enable 1...Y....1.....17 When you press reset in Mach3 this signals the motor controller via pin 17 that it is under PC control and accepts motor movement commands.
Ok. It's all wired up. Now to power the board with a 12V supply..
A reassuring beep and a red light seems to indicate that at least I have not fried anything...
|Feb 01, 2011, 09:41 PM|
Can you post some pics of your set up including board layout and wiring?
I'm interested in this kit, but I need more of a plug-n-play version unless its really a follow the numbers type of assembly.
|Feb 02, 2011, 08:45 AM|
Briefly, the kit is easy to assemble. Getting it precisely aligned takes a lot of patience. I will post details later.. It does not include the stepper motors or interface board. I can make suggestions about what to purchase and how to wire it all up.
I suggest 4 Nema 17 bipolar motors as the kit is designed to use them.
You also need an interface card and software to drive it. I really like http://planet-cnc.com USB hardware and the software. You also need 4 motor driver cards.
|Feb 09, 2011, 03:20 PM|
Where is the RESET button?
|Feb 09, 2011, 03:54 PM|
One of the lead screws was badly drilled, to I had to improvise a connector to the stepper motor. I used several pieces of heat-shrink to bulk out the stepper shaft to the diameter of the lead screw, and two more to connect them together. I put a bolt into the grub screw location to prevent slipping. It worked quite well, and has a little bit of play, which helps with the alignment.
The linear rail and truck are very precise. Even though I was attaching the rail onto MDF, I had to slip pieces of paper underneath to get it and the motor and end bracket exactly level.
The more I got the lead screw and rail aligned, the faster the stepper motors could drive the trucks without binding.
One thing that helped was using some rubber grommets from my servo box to hold the motor and end piece solidly, but allow some movement.
|Feb 10, 2011, 05:50 AM|
The Motors etc
The motors are Nema17 unbranded scrap unipolar motors. I dont know what the motor specifications are. There is no tag on them.
The MM2001 cannot drive anything powerful without releasing the magic smoke from the chips.
Fortunately the Axes move very smoothly -the Bosch rail and trucks are great - and do not require much power.
As I am trying to cut with radiant heat, there is no pull on them.
I Suspended the bow from the ceiling, so there is almost nothing for the motors to do. If I had more powerful motors, I probably would not have spent the time aligning the track and leadscrew so well, so maybe it's better this way.
One thing that helped was driving the motors at 20 volts. They get fairly warm, but I think that's ok. If they do burn out, I'll get some better ones and may ditch the mm2001 so I can use bipolar motors.
I found out that you can drive stepper motors at voltages way above that specified in their data sheet.
Here is a picture of what I ended up with:
|Feb 11, 2011, 03:27 PM|
XYAB it is just setting Z to A reset is at bottom as mach3mill
did you copy in the image set
|Dec 06, 2013, 07:09 AM|
Joined Jun 2012
What do you think?:
It's in Dutch, but you can translate documents with Google Translate(didn't have the time yet to type Englisch version):
Do you have pictures about your hot wire mount?
Do you still have good experiences with the machine?
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