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Old Dec 02, 2012, 04:54 PM
Fighting Gravity
bonnie9496's Avatar
Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Jan 2011
549 Posts
Hey CSI. Welcome to the family.
Has been a bit quiet on the thread. Guess we are too busy, out flying the coverings off the Leader
The mods you suggested are fine ifyou feel required. I did add the extra magenet to canopy hatch, though had no bad experience. Extra CA around the joints is a good precaution. My Leader has about 100 flights on it without issue.
The rudder authority though not massive is adequate. I can hold a reasonable knife edge pass, though need to maintain some speed.
I run the Power 10 and 11x7 and find this the best power mix for me.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 03:42 AM
CSI
I promise, just ONE more order
CSI's Avatar
Del Rio Intl, Texas, United States
Joined Feb 2004
3,983 Posts
Thanks for the additional comments guys. I spent the evening with my covering iron going over all the parts, removing wrinkles, making sure seams were down tight, etc. The red and blue covering is pretty tough to work on...stubborn!

I also had to glue one of the wing tabs back into place. Found it down inside the wing?! I "cleaned" out the landing gear channels and mounted the gear nice and flush. I also mounted the servos...regular MG90s. I have had pretty good service from these little metal gear guys. Looks like the factory mounted up the nosegear bracket at an angle, so will have to straighten that out tomorrow. Just taking my time, checking out everything as I go along. Fun build so far.
I also added some thin pinstripe to the edges of the red and blue trim just to give it some more definition. I did this on my MUS and it came out well, so thought I would try it here. So far it's looking nice.
Thanks again guys,
Ken
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 07:15 AM
Fighting Gravity
bonnie9496's Avatar
Australia, WA, Perth
Joined Jan 2011
549 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by CSI View Post
Thanks for the additional comments guys. I spent the evening with my covering iron going over all the parts, removing wrinkles, making sure seams were down tight, etc. The red and blue covering is pretty tough to work on...stubborn!

I also had to glue one of the wing tabs back into place. Found it down inside the wing?! I "cleaned" out the landing gear channels and mounted the gear nice and flush. I also mounted the servos...regular MG90s. I have had pretty good service from these little metal gear guys. Looks like the factory mounted up the nosegear bracket at an angle, so will have to straighten that out tomorrow. Just taking my time, checking out everything as I go along. Fun build so far.
I also added some thin pinstripe to the edges of the red and blue trim just to give it some more definition. I did this on my MUS and it came out well, so thought I would try it here. So far it's looking nice.
Thanks again guys,
Ken
Wing tabs loose or MIA seems a common thing.
Mine was missing one all together, not in the wing, in the box.....nowhere! Ended up having to manufacture one.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 08:30 AM
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Caddguy6's Avatar
Philadelphia, PA
Joined Jan 2002
423 Posts
Those darn wing tabs!

When I was assembling the wings I didn't have an issue with the tabs themselves but I did with the T-nuts in the fuse. I had one on each side rip out of the wood just as I tightened them. Couldn't loosen them so out with the CA and done, a one piece airplane. Hasn't been a problem as the overall size of the Leader is nice and compact.
Great flyer.
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Old Jan 17, 2013, 12:08 PM
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United States, NC, Lexington
Joined Jul 2012
214 Posts
I had the same thing to happen! I worked on it last night trying to figure out how to fix it. Only way I know to even get to it is by cutting the ultracote on the underside of the plane, but since this is a brand new plane, that's not happening! I guess I won't be removing the wings either. I just got the motor in today that Headsuprc recommended. It's a Emax BL 2820/07. It's a little bigger than the Power 10.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Caddguy6 View Post
When I was assembling the wings I didn't have an issue with the tabs themselves but I did with the T-nuts in the fuse. I had one on each side rip out of the wood just as I tightened them. Couldn't loosen them so out with the CA and done, a one piece airplane. Hasn't been a problem as the overall size of the Leader is nice and compact.
Great flyer.
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 10:06 PM
Bay Area Prop Buster
Bluhammer's Avatar
Bay Area CA
Joined Jan 2011
3,917 Posts
Yeah I reported when building mine that the last wing bolt froze in the blind nut before it was fully screwed in. It took 2 hours to work it free, re-glue both blind nuts and install new bolts. Man I was mad. It's really tight working in that area and I was not going to cut any covering. I all came together and has been a favorite at the field running a p-10. A real beauty.

Blu
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 10:31 PM
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oneagleswings's Avatar
United States, NC, Lexington
Joined Jul 2012
214 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluhammer View Post
Yeah I reported when building mine that the last wing bolt froze in the blind nut before it was fully screwed in. It took 2 hours to work it free, re-glue both blind nuts and install new bolts. Man I was mad. It's really tight working in that area and I was not going to cut any covering. I all came together and has been a favorite at the field running a p-10. A real beauty.

Blu
How did you ever get in there to work it free and glue it? I'm having trouble even getting back there to it and even if I do get it loose, I'm afraid I may never get it back. I've got 3 of the 4 tight, but that one is froze on the blind nut and loose. I had one where the motor mounts up do the same thing, but I was able to free it and use a pair of long crooked neck pliars to get it back and tightened.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 08:13 AM
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Cherokee Flyer's Avatar
United States, KS, Rose Hill
Joined Sep 2007
753 Posts
Looks like it might be a good thing to run a tap through them before installing bolts.

L.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 11:51 AM
Bay Area Prop Buster
Bluhammer's Avatar
Bay Area CA
Joined Jan 2011
3,917 Posts
I remember somehow getting a semi needle nose on the nut and working the bolt free. I think I re-glued the blind nuts by working partially thru the wing slots. I made sure the new bolts easily screwed thru the nuts before gluing them in. It wasn't an easy nor fun job for sure.
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Old Jan 20, 2013, 08:11 PM
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oneagleswings's Avatar
United States, NC, Lexington
Joined Jul 2012
214 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluhammer View Post
I remember somehow getting a semi needle nose on the nut and working the bolt free. I think I re-glued the blind nuts by working partially thru the wing slots. I made sure the new bolts easily screwed thru the nuts before gluing them in. It wasn't an easy nor fun job for sure.
I've already tried that. I can't get the pliars on the blind nut. It's just tight enough to where there is nothing sticking down to grab onto, but it's still loose enough that it will turn with your finger pressure. It's a sorry design for sure, kind of like those wing tabs that weren't attached and loose in the bag when I got the plane. I also had two of the blind nuts to pop loose when I was installing the motor. The top one was an easy fix but the bottom one was a pain in the rump.
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Old Jan 21, 2013, 08:25 PM
Bay Area Prop Buster
Bluhammer's Avatar
Bay Area CA
Joined Jan 2011
3,917 Posts
I feel your pain brother. I just started building my 2nd wood and monocoat plane and I'm expecting a nasty surprise at anytime. It's an Electrifly Reactor Bipe biplane. So far so good.

I think I remember also using various sized blade screwdrivers to wedge between the froze blind nut and the wood they're suppose to be attached to, to keep them from turning as the bolt is worked free.
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Old Mar 01, 2013, 11:05 AM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2007
42 Posts
Tail wheel Leader

Has anyone thought of making this a tailwheel airplane? Thinking about a set of carbon gear and a tailwheel. Gear probably about at the leading edge of the wing. I think it would be cool. Any thoughts appreciated.
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 05:17 PM
Life is a Hobby
Canada, ON, Delhi
Joined Aug 2012
845 Posts
The tail dragger idea isn`t bad but not for the reason you might imagine.

Purpose-built electrics tend to have the firewall farther forward than glo models which places the nose wheel on a trike very close to the prop disk resulting in prop strikes on the nose wheel when taxiing on a grass field.

The Leader is my goto plane when I just want to throw something into the back of the car and go out to relax with some low key sport flying at my club. But from the start I kept hearing this funny "tick" sound when taxiing and finally figured out the prop strike problem.

So I switched to a smaller diameter prop and nose wheel which solved the problem.

The new H9 Meridian is having the same problem when the wheel pant is mounted on the nose wheel. So the location of the nose wheel in an electric trike must be designed from the getgo to avoid this problem.

But it appears for some reason this is not the case in some R/C models.

Bill
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Old Mar 02, 2013, 10:11 PM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2007
42 Posts
Well,

I picked it up at my LHS and it will be a tail dragger. Prolly getting some 42 AJ Slick gear and doing the mod. Tail wheel steering could be tricky but will figure it out. I suspect it will be lighter too.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 10:00 AM
Bay Area Prop Buster
Bluhammer's Avatar
Bay Area CA
Joined Jan 2011
3,917 Posts
This baby is great as a trike, one of the reasons why I bought it. I've had very few prop strikes and only on poor landings due to poor piloting!
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