What video?


ROFL.

I do that, keep an eye on me.

Keep practicing, and the spring is working against you. It's a preference thing, some love them,...

This is normal behavior, you learn to guide and compensate on both sticks together in no time at all.

Keep in mind, the older 3-ch gyro-less copters were loved and repaired forever, and they flew like pure doo-doo compared to thee S107.

We just learned how to Voodoo them around.
Off-topic:
I am so jealous of where you live.

Alright,

I'll just keep charging - flying - charging - flying - ..... for the next few days, and see whether I get any better at it :P

Originally Posted by Blooner

First off: What the heck is that floating hot dog video??!??!

That kinda disturbed me...

Anyways: My S107 is not as stable as I imagined him to be...
But I'm not sure what the problem is.

It could be me, it could be some sort of crossbreeze, some sort of IR interference or the S107 itself could be unbalanced...

Aside from the TBE I've been seeing it does the following:

When flying forward, it also goes slightly right. And drops down.
When flying backwards, it also goes slightly right (so same direction as forward). And goes up.
When 'hovering' it sometimes goes slightly forward+right. But other times slightly backwards+right.
Also I still can't seem to get her to stay on the same altitude. She is either moving up or down... I might want to remove the spring in the lever and test whether it still can't stay level, or whether my fingers are just twitchy. Are there any tutorials on doing this?

Any help/remarks are welcome.

Or if you just want to say: "Stop whining and learn to fly the thing first" then that is okay too :P.

Greets as always,
Blooner

Here's a video on how to remove the spring in the transmitter.

How to: Picooz Controller/Transmitter Mod (5 min 48 sec)

Nice to see that in video form, much easier to get.

Whatever you do, re-charge BEFORE battery weakness.
One full death is enough forever.

These all should have that in freeking bold on the box: these are not your father's ni-cads.

Thanks for the video tutorial man!

I don't have the right tools in my house, but I'll visit my father pretty soon, he has all the necessary equipement I'm sure of it.

Originally Posted by killbucket

Nice to see that in video form, much easier to get.

Whatever you do, re-charge BEFORE battery weakness.
One full death is enough forever.

These all should have that in freeking bold on the box: these are not your father's ni-cads.

Yeah, thankfully I read the importance of this somewhere before I got the copter. I was very surprised it wasn't anywhere in the manual...

I'm only flying it for about half the time that it is capable of I think. Just to make sure.

Better 5000 half flights then 100 full ones right?!

Or 4-10...what seems most usual.

Are you sure its huey? looks like a Hughes 269 or somthing like a Schweizer 300C. Im going to plumb for saying its a 269 rather than a huey.

Dog bone floats look funny but nice http://www.aircruisers.com/images/float_ec120.jpg

You do have the equipment to make hotdog floats, take your polystyrene and use sand paper to smooth them into the shape you want.

Originally Posted by BrownOut

You do have the equipment to make hotdog floats, take your polystyrene and use sand paper to smooth them into the shape you want.

I agree - after a few abortive attempts to make a foam wing cutter many years ago, I just stuck the formica airfoil templates onto the ends of the foam block and used a sharp breadknife to cut away the bulk of the foam then finish with a long piece of wood covered in fine sandpaper (has to be fine or you'll tear out the beads in the polystyrene).

...just be sure to do it outside or you'll end up looking like a snowman.

Blooner - you'll need to co-ordinate the throttle and yaw on the S107 to get really smooth flight; all these helis seem to climb when turning one way and descend when going the other. Remember the heavy flybar is always only going one way so this affects left and right turns differently.

Becomes automatic after a while to add/subtract a bit of throttle to compensate for whatever manoeuvre you're doing - and you do feel like you're really 'flying' the heli. Stick at it...and fly SLOW

Originally Posted by Barak1001

-snip- I'm about as close as you can come to an "expert" on coaxials.
-snip-

From now on, please defer all technical questions directly to the Man.

Originally Posted by killbucket

Nice to see that in video form, much easier to get.

Whatever you do, re-charge BEFORE battery weakness.
One full death is enough forever.

These all should have that in freeking bold on the box: these are not your father's ni-cads.

Man, I feel old: "father's ni-cads". I started with fixed wings as a teenager. NiCds was all we had. And too weak and heavy for propulsion. So we used little .8 cm2 or 3.5 cm2 combustion engines with our own fuel mix.

I thought I had totally gotten over RC flying. I've been "clean" for over 25 years. That is until a friend gave me an old Picooz a few weeks ago and I got hooked again I did a few mods to the picooz to make it fly a bit more predictable and in search of more info about the picooz I stumbled across this forum with info about the S107. The rest is history.

Back in the days I "flew" the 4-channel heli of a friend (also combustion engine powered) for a few seconds. With no electronic assists if felt like trying to balance a broom upside down on your fingertip. Scary. At that point I decided that helis were not for me. The S107 (just got my second one yesterday) feels like driving an RC car compared to the old experience. I'm glad to see where technology got us. And I'm excited to see where this will lead. Totally amazing...

"First One's free, kid"...
and so nice to see TOYS pull people BACK!!!!
these are a sickness all their own.

If they'd quit making better ones, I might have a chance...nah, keep 'em coming.

I can quit anytime I want.

Originally Posted by killbucket

These all should have that in freeking bold on the box: these are not your father's ni-cads.

I wonder why they don't mention this in the instruction manuals? They give you the obligatory 'do not overcharge' and 'don't subject to extreme heat/cold' blurb but neglect to mention the adverse affect of running down the battery..usually it's just a Chinglish 'if power fail then recharge' statement - which is usually too late by then.

Of course it's a double-edged sword; if they DON'T mention it then maybe people will simply buy a new heli when the battery dies = more sales. But then again, if the heli fails after only a few flights then some people simply won't ever buy from them again = less sales.

Pity Syma can't put a link to this site and forum in their instruction manuals.

On the topic of instruction manuals, why is it that no matter what you buy (I'm talking hi-fi, cameras, etc) you only get a 'quick start' guide and end up downloading the full manual off the manufacturers website?? Happens with everything I ever buy.

Originally Posted by killbucket

Maybe a pic of how 'rough'?

they were pretty banged up,so i removed them,and sanded.then i tried switching them top to bottom with catastrophic results!it just slammed into the ground,breaking the landing gear.then i read a post saying another guy here had one and one of the main rotor motors packed it in after a couple weeks.so i turned it on and tried to see if the lower rotor counter rotated when the directional control was adjusted,and it just seems to be spinning.this thing flew great,then it just wouldn't get lift.it's a bummer,cause i was just getting good at flying it,more or less.i think it's probably a pooched motor.grrr...are li po batteries interchangable?i could take the good battery out of the apache maybe and stick in the transporter?

i tried switching them top to bottom

Yeah, don't do that. Their leading edges face opposite directions and they're not interchangeable.

Try this. Hold the top internal gear and gently try to turn the bottom bladeset. If it turns easily, the rotor has separated from the shaft. I thought we already checked that but maybe not.

the gear mesh seems tight but i haven't broken it down yet.are they a nightmare to get apart?i don't want to take it apart until i have more info...
ok i just removed the underside,and tested as you suggested.holding the top gear,the rotor turns through about 50 percent of its travel before locking up.suggestions??