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Old Jan 22, 2011, 03:29 PM
Just Me
United States, OR, Salem
Joined Apr 2006
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I think bleeding might look pretty good with that scheme.....good job...
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Old Jan 23, 2011, 01:02 AM
Must not buy more planes!
mclarkson's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
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Unfortunately, it was the wrong sort of 'bleeding.'
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 12:01 PM
Registered User
Fremont, California, United States
Joined Oct 2001
56 Posts
How do these decals work with SolarLite Shrink Wrap covering?

Hi Fred,

I am glad I found this awesome thread!

However, I work with Balsa / SolarLite and was wondering how well this technique works in that case.

[1] How to glue the decal to the shrink wrap covering?
[2] For lettering, is the decal transparent enough to be invisible (for the part
where there is no lettering)?

Thanks,
Sanjaya
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Old Feb 15, 2011, 06:17 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sakumar View Post
Hi Fred,

I am glad I found this awesome thread!

However, I work with Balsa / SolarLite and was wondering how well this technique works in that case.

[1] How to glue the decal to the shrink wrap covering?
[2] For lettering, is the decal transparent enough to be invisible (for the part
where there is no lettering)?

Thanks,
Sanjaya
Thanks for checking in and you comments with questions. I have not used Solarlite, unless it also known by a different name. The decals will work with many shrink coverings, especially many of the lightweight 'polyester' or sometimes called synthetic tissue kinds. Since these coverings can be painted, similar methods can be used, even down to Krylon as the top coat instead of say WBPU.

You can even use them on some of the mylar type coverings, like monocote, orcacover, etc, but I'd use 3M Super 77 spray glue to get the decal on the plastic. 3M glue is so agressive though there is a learning curve on applying the glue and handling the decals with the glue on them! Toothpicks and some transfer sheets come to mind. I often make most of my trim on true mylar, out of mylar when possible though.

The decals do blend in well with many kinds of materials (the edges), but always test on some scrap to see the results. Wearing reading glasses and some sharp #11 blades and scissors, I can trim a decal right to the printed edge when it might not 'blend in' and get some very clean results.

Of course these work with regular tissue and silkspan, probably about as best as any material!

Good luck! Post some results and we all can see how it turned out.

Fred
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Old Feb 23, 2011, 11:37 PM
Registered User
Fremont, California, United States
Joined Oct 2001
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Thanks for the tips, Fred.

I found that the tissue-paper decals were not transparent enough on the light colored SolarLite shrink wrap covering that I used.

Eventually, I ended up using decal paper from:
http://www.beldecal.com/inkjet_decals.cfm

Photos show the results. (It's a Stevensaero Daddy-O).
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Old Feb 25, 2011, 09:57 AM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Sakumar,

What a beauty! Thanks for posting the photos. You did a subperb job of building and covering. You model is deserving of the decal stock and extra work involved. Also thanks for the information on the decal transparency info when using the light colored Solarlite film. That should help others when deciding on finishing techniques.

Have you flown it yet? You should get plenty of attention at the flying site with that model. Good luck and congratulations!

Fred
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Old Mar 20, 2011, 05:32 PM
The world in foam & tissue
Rasterize's Avatar
United States, NY, Rochester
Joined May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddie B View Post
First I simply taped some tissue wrap over an open cardboard box.

Second, I sprayed paint over the tissue, nice even coat, faily wet, not soaked or sagging please! It should be wrinkled somewhat, just like if misted with water, but not quite as much....

Fred
Nice thread Fred! Your secrets are out!
Have you ever printed on tissue after you sprayed the tissue paper white?
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Old Mar 20, 2011, 08:24 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Rasterize View Post
Nice thread Fred! Your secrets are out!
Have you ever printed on tissue after you sprayed the tissue paper white?
No, and it would depend on one's printer and ink. My inkjet would probably smear on painted surfaces because it really isn't dry immediately. The lazer might work, but heaven help if the paint peeled or the paper got stuck with all that heat going on! The lazer machine isn't cheap and they wouldn't warranty such abuse!

PS. There are no secrets! Share and share alike, we all prosper (or have fun)!

Fred
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 05:26 AM
The world in foam & tissue
Rasterize's Avatar
United States, NY, Rochester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddie B View Post
No, and it would depend on one's printer and ink. My inkjet would probably smear on painted surfaces because it really isn't dry immediately.

Fred
What if the white paint was on the back and you printed on the other side? I'm looking to just increase the opacity of the tissue so that painting blue/pink foam would be unnecessary. Paint it like you did stretched out over a box, dry. mount paint side down on a carrier sheet and print.
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasterize View Post
What if the white paint was on the back and you printed on the other side? I'm looking to just increase the opacity of the tissue so that painting blue/pink foam would be unnecessary. Paint it like you did stretched out over a box, dry. mount paint side down on a carrier sheet and print.
You know, it is well worth a try. I have been post spraying the back with white. If you get in a hurry and do heavier coats the white can creep through the little pores making some very tiny specks of white on the decal (not so bad, but not perfection. I have often thought what if you treated a second sheet, just white, and pre-mounted the tissue decals to it before cutting the decal out. Only issues would be a good wrinkle free bond that doesn't delaminate upon final mounting.
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 12:07 PM
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Here is my latest use of tissue decals. Built a DH94 Moth Minor, and used the tissue decals on a FFF foam, painted airframe. This model is about 40" W.S., and the decals do blend in with little seams like they were painted on.

These were painted on the back side wth white after they had been treated with clear. Sort of got in a hurry and sprayed the white a little thick, and ended up with some very tiny speckeling. The cool thing is that the dark colors do not show through the decal.

The best way to mount these decals ended up taking some Weldbond Whit Glue, and I squeegied a thin layer on with a shiny post card. Quickly applied it where I wanted it and rubbed it down from the center out. I let this dry for at least 1 hour, and then top coated with WBPU.

The whole airframe was hand painted with thinned craft paint and a brush (free hand), decals added, then airbrushed sprayed the whole airfram with WBPU (cheap Harbor Freight utility brush that puts out A LOT of material quickly).

On a bird this size, or larger one could use a thin white copy paper to print on, as I did in the old days. I just hate the bump at the edge (seam) when using thicker paper.
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Old Sep 06, 2011, 08:19 AM
low tech high tech
vtdiy's Avatar
Southern Vermont
Joined Feb 2007
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I used your method, modified a little to put these gold colored tissue (not foil or plastic) letters on my Brown B-2 racer.

The main difference was that large letters really want to tear and fold in on themselves when wet or glue-sticked (verb?) and are very difficult to re-position. I finally had to dispense with the glue stick and white glue, and float them on generous amount of Polycrylic applied to the wing. I could then reposition slightly.

I also used the paper pattern sheet cutout as a positioning stencil to place the letters.

The photo shows them as first applied -- the slight wrinkling disappears after overnight drying.

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Old Sep 06, 2011, 12:45 PM
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Very nice work on the lettering. Looks really sharp in Red and Gold. I have varied my application sometimes, and glue stick, and/or white glue (Very thin layer), with a polycrilic base sometimes works well. The trich is to spread the white glue very thin and apply immediately.

I've done a few new projects too. Maybe when I do the decals on the latest I'll post some more photos too!

Great work and I'm sure you will be enjoying that finish for some time!

Fred
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 08:53 PM
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Stockton, CA
Joined Sep 2007
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Great thread Fred...enjoyed the tutorial...

Tom
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 09:20 AM
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Freddie B's Avatar
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Originally Posted by sky9pilot View Post
Great thread Fred...enjoyed the tutorial...

Tom
Sky9pilot
Thank you Tom. I tried to do a quick decal set for a new build using regular copy paper recently, and it about ruined my airplane because the decals lifted creating valleys, ridges, and bubbles. I am sticking with the tissue decals an all my foamies, covered planes, and anything fiberglassed or filter/silkspan covered. I got mor pictures to post one day, need to get to that!

Fred
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