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Old Jul 17, 2015, 09:34 AM
valiantGLX is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbarchuk View Post
I saw the bottle in your vid but unclear. Just to make sure, this is 'electrical' flux, right, not pipe/plumbing flux?

This one is the real reason I'm replying...



Nooooooo. Poison. Never-ever. The tip is a rather soft iron/steel, with a copper coating. Scrub off that coating and the tip is shot.

I've had tips last for -years- using this cleaning technique...

At the -end- of a soldering session, turn off the iron, and load it up with solder. Let it cool that way.

Next time powering up the iron, as the solder melts wipe it on a damp sponge. Not a wet sponge just damp.

'Soldering sponge' isn't like a dishwashing sponge. It has a lot tighter open cell foam. These can last for years too.



Bingo. +1.

Recently I've been using a '3rd hand' clamp to hold wires to solder Deans connectors which take a bit of time to get fully heated, and more time to cool off. I -can- do it other ways but the the 3rd hand is much easier.



Someday you're gonna spend a fortune to get them fixed.
Its definitely for soldering, its called soldering fluid, and was recommend to me by the store owner.

I used to solder by the text book, but just found what works best for me over the years of micro soldering. I see youtube tutorials that look like they struggle at best compared to my method. Because my tips usually loaded there's no need to tin it when I'm finished, I just clean off the excess in the steel wool. When I go to solder again I just whip the tip through the steel wool again and I'm good to go. For steel wool I use the coarse stuff with no added soap. Granted, I don't solder everyday, but I might solder 50 connections in an average week. I've had one soldering iron blow up, but I've never had to throw out a tip.

Soldering the programming wires on my yep7a would've been a nightmare using the traditional method of heating the connection then applying the solder, furthermore it's not necessary on micro jobs or high gauge wire. Also the soldering fluid/paste is absolute gold, I swear by it 100%.
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Last edited by valiantGLX; Jul 17, 2015 at 09:41 AM.
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Old Jul 17, 2015, 09:50 AM
valiantGLX is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy01 View Post
Excellent video ... you sure are fast .

So what kind of solder do you recommend, and what brand torch do you use?

Gene K
Cheers buddy, I think I squeezed nearly 90mins of footage into it.

I think my torch is a Maxwell & Williams kitchen blow torch for crème burle and such. For solder I just use cheap stuff with a flux core, a pretty typical off the shelf type job. I'll check the specifics when I'm back in my workshop next
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Old Jul 21, 2015, 12:07 PM
Crash Override is online now
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is always breaking stuff :D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash Override View Post
This one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Brushed...44570476&rt=nc

I'm thinking of switching over to the XP-7A ESC - just have to order a couple.
Signal converter will be here today.
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 07:11 AM
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Initial testing complete.
Parts list:
A Pro signal converter (stock)
YEP 7A ESC (stock)
BLH3327 motor (stock)
150mAh 25C 1S battery (stock)

ESC, brick, converter wired direct to battery. Throttle reversed in TX. Motors spins up and down.

Now I just need to burn out the stock motor in the SCS so I can steal its pinion.

Side note: for anyone wondering why there is a 3-pin motor connector on the AS3X bricks, I still don't know why. I do know plugging the BLH3327 motor into that connector is not an option. As soon as I connected the battery, both motor and battery became very warm very quickly, and the motor was not turning.
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crash Override View Post
Initial testing complete.
Parts list:
A Pro signal converter (stock)
YEP 7A ESC (stock)
BLH3327 motor (stock)
150mAh 25C 1S battery (stock)

ESC, brick, converter wired direct to battery. Throttle reversed in TX. Motors spins up and down.

Now I just need to burn out the stock motor in the SCS so I can steal its pinion.

Side note: for anyone wondering why there is a 3-pin motor connector on the AS3X bricks, I still don't know why. I do know plugging the BLH3327 motor into that connector is not an option. As soon as I connected the battery, both motor and battery became very warm very quickly, and the motor was not turning.
There are 3 pin motor connectors on the AS3X bricks because they were never swapped out for anything different when the bricks were converted over to stabilized bricks. Before the AS3X was added you could turn on brushless mode in the brick with some tx stick programming, and add an external brushless ESC. The 3 pins are + - open in brushed mode, signal + - in brushless mode.

After the AS3X was added some Horizon employees confirmed that brushless programming mode is no longer possible, but the construction & connectors used remain the same.

Note the attached pic from the manuals is for the AR6410/AR6410L. The AS3X bricks are AS6410 series.


Ben
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 10:13 AM
Crash Override is online now
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Cool.

Now I just need to check if the LVC will make the motor go runaway instead of pulsing it with the TX throttle reversed. I rather suspect it will pulse the motor. We'll find out.
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Old Jul 22, 2015, 10:13 AM
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duplicate post deleted by author
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Last edited by Crash Override; Jul 22, 2015 at 10:17 AM. Reason: duplicate
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Old Aug 10, 2015, 12:20 PM
Crash Override is online now
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Conversion on hold until I figure out how to get the YEP out of programming mode.
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