Originally Posted by evmurph

Hi all,
I cannot get my new Mini Vapor to reliably bind (to a Spekrum DM9 module). Firstly, sometimes it won't bind at all. Sometimes, I can get it bind but when it has actually done so, the receiver seems to go on a go-slow with stick movements being followed by the servos after a short delay. When it does bind and the responses are correct all seems well, but if I power off the MV and the Tx and then power them on (Tx on first, wait 5 sec, then MV on) the MV goes into binding again.
Do I have a faulty Mini Vapor?
- Mike

Mike,

First off, I think you are mixing terms. Binding is only done once. Powering-up to fly is not called binding. It's called initialization. They are very different things, so it is important to keep the terms straight.

I'm flying with a Futaba 10CHP w/Spektrum DM8 module, and mine initializes normally. If your module-based rig works fine with other BNF aircraft, and if your MV battery is healthy & charged, there is most likely something wrong with your MV.

Joel

Originally Posted by turboparker

Mike,

First off, I think you are mixing terms. Binding is only done once. Powering-up to fly is not called binding. It's called initialization. They are very different things, so it is important to keep the terms straight.

I'm flying with a Futaba 10CHP w/Spektrum DM8 module, and mine initializes normally. If your module-based rig works fine with other BNF aircraft, and if your MV battery is healthy & charged, there is most likely something wrong with your MV.

Joel

My experience with a lot of these ultra-micros is they don't always link properly, but they aren't damaged, and all you need to do is plug the battery again without cycling the radio. These things don't have brown-out detection so there's no harm in doing that. I don't know why some of them work every time and others seem to need that re-start, but it's not the radio because I have multiple UMs and they don't all do that. Point is, I don't think it indicates the kind of problem for which it needs service - just plug the battery twice and fly.

Yes mine dont connect reliably all the time either, usually because I've not had the TX on long enough or its too close or even being too close to my WiFi aerials.

I just move the TX or the model and try again - usually works.

BUT I did have a problem with models not connecting with my DX5e despite doing all of the above. That turned out to be a defective switch on the Tx , it was witching on the signal strength LED and sounding the beep but not the Rf side of the circuit.

Terry

Originally Posted by Terry Rigden

Yes mine dont connect reliably all the time either, usually because I've not had the TX on long enough or its too close or even being too close to my WiFi aerials.

I just move the TX or the model and try again - usually works.

BUT I did have a problem with models not connecting with my DX5e despite doing all of the above. That turned out to be a defective switch on the Tx , it was witching on the signal strength LED and sounding the beep but not the Rf side of the circuit.

Terry

yep, I have seen this also, usually when I am in a busy airspace with lots of 2.4 radios and I don't wait until I get a solid light on my DM9 module. It took me a while to figure it out because usually I'm not looking at the back of my radio. There was a recall on some DM9 module housings and you can get a free replacement which seats better in the transmitters. When I found that mine had the issue I was moving the module with my fingers wrapped around the transmitter and the RF signal was dropping out. Fortunately I was just flying a foamie so there was no damage but it was worrisome because I fly bigger stuff with the same radio. Changed out the housing and the problem went away. Once I figured it out I was able to get it to happen my wiggling the DM9 module on the back of my Tx and the module light would go off

but that same situation would cause indoor BNF planes to lose bind because the Tx wasn't actually putting out RF

My maiden along with some bloopers!

Each flight made it easier and easier to fly this little thing. I normally post my better flying, but this isn't that kind of quality lol

Mini Vapor Maiden (0 min 55 sec)

Originally Posted by jasmine2501

My experience with a lot of these ultra-micros is they don't always link properly, but they aren't damaged, and all you need to do is plug the battery again without cycling the radio. These things don't have brown-out detection so there's no harm in doing that. I don't know why some of them work every time and others seem to need that re-start, but it's not the radio because I have multiple UMs and they don't all do that. Point is, I don't think it indicates the kind of problem for which it needs service - just plug the battery twice and fly.

I have to do this almost every flight with the mv. Sometimes it initializes on the first go but its rare. Never takes more than a second try though.

I broke the prop on my Mini-Vapor last night. The prop is broken in half and the nut that holds it on the shaft is gone. Does anyone know if a new nut comes with the new prop? If not what do I need to buy to get the replacement nut. I can't find any info saying yes or no.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by sparkeyben

Does anyone know if a new nut comes with the new prop? If not what do I need to buy to get the replacement nut. I can't find any info saying yes or no.

Thanks.

It does not come with the small nut to hold it on. However, the NV prop shafts do come with both the gear and the nut (at least the package I bought, it came with two shafts). The shafts work too, but I think I might have to use more throttle to get similar flight characteristics. I bought NV shafts because my LHS was out of MV ones.

I recall someone had issues with the prop striking the ground on landing. On flight 14 I finally got round to landing it ( as opposed to snatching it out of the air) and found the best way to do it is get the model in a slow high alpha attitude and slowly close the throttle and let it run aground and it does a nice three point landing with no prop strike.

I'm still comparing it to my old original Vapor and now that I'm used to the MV reckon its a better small space flyer, its certainly much easier to get through a doorway (surprise surprise). see picture for size comparison

Is anyone flying one of these with a fancy transmitter with expo and the like? I've been using the M Mouse RTF tranny and the DX5e and wonder if a better Tx would notice on one of these ?

Regards

Terry

Mine is on a DX6i but zero expo by choice. I dont see any need for it and it didnt cross my mind till now. I fly at least 20% on all of my 3d birds.

It would be interesting to hear what if any difference you notice as you dial in the expo

Terry

OK! I will check it out for ya.
This is what I usually fly with expo so I dont know how well the comparison will be...

2012 probro video contest round 2 (3 min 11 sec)

Nice flying, I consider myself outclassed.

Terry

Hi guys!

Having a blast with my Mini Vapor. However, I got major vibrations from the prop. Tried to balance it with no luck -the prop is a bit crooked.
Cannot bend it back to make it more reliable.

I decided not to risk to vibrate the brick to an end of life situation and gave my MCF5030S prop a chance.
It never worked good because of the adapter but like I said, the original prop wasn't perfect either.
Now I used a postal rubber band, made to size with scissors, poked holes with a pin. Mounted with pliers. Done!

Now I get a much faster flight, it's way more quite and pleasant to fly. The lack of vibrations makes the aircraft more precise to fly.

Results:
Lighter plane: CoG move aft, batt moved forward now
Longer flight! 7,5 minutes now flying in circles- no extremely high AoA
Warmer motor- which seems to indicate higher power consumption. Maybe it's just warmer because of the longer flight.. Stock I would get 5 mins max

RECOMMENDED!

Intersting ! I have one of those props hanging about doing nothing. On other rmodels I glued a bit of balsa to the back of the hub , drill that a bit indersize the attch the prop with UHO por which absorbs any knocks.

Longer flights ends to indicate less current .

Am I right in thinking it dives less in sharp righthand turns ?

Terry