i bought an old rc trainer and have a few questions
1) the batterie for the reciver is toast but i have a few 2 cell 20 c lipos from an electric build i am working on can i use them in the nitro

2) what type of fuel should i use what nitro content vs oil content and a brand

3) wood vs composite props
thanks for taking the time to help me

1. You can with a regulator, otherwise the voltage will be too high and will destroy the receiver and servos.
2. No idea...you didn't say what motor you have .
3. Partly depends on the motor but I prefer composites like APC.

Steve

As slipstick says. 2 cell lipo's have too high of a voltage for most servos.
This is hard to beat for .60 and smaller planes.
http://www.advantagehobby.com/66815/...M6321/?cat=314
By the time you buy a regulator,you will spend as much or maybe even more.
If it's an old beater motor,about any glow fuel will do in 10 to 20% range. They all have a relatively safe oil content But since you are probably going to get it from a hobby store,just tell them what you have. They are there to help.
And I would get a plastic prop. You will probably be doinking it. And wood doesn't take that very well.
Fred

Ok it has a thunder tiger 40 and as for a regulator would an old thunderbird 6 bec work

I am new to the nitro stuff i learned to fly with small rtf planes and have limited experience in wiring in components

I would think the bec would work. Otherwise I would suggest running 5 cell instead of the 4 cell nmh linked above.

Thunder tiger recommends fuel containing castor.

You really are at the mercy of you local hobby store as far as fuel. It isn't any harder than driving up to the gas pump. If you want the cheapest stuff get 5%,or the premium get 25. You will probably just have to see what they have. But I would get at least 10%.

As far as the T-bird 6.... That is a speed controller,and looks like the BEC is rated at 1.5 amps.
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...nderbirds.html
It would be a waste of a speed controller,and I don't know if 1.5 amps would handle it. Futaba shows a 3003 servo to draw 8 milliamps at idle. but doesn't show under full load. Iduno,but I would want 3 amps. I think 1.5 is for park flyer size servos (hs-55 size) I wouldn't do it
Fred

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...FUoKKgodsXgAcw
so this should work then

next question i have lodes of time fling small electric planes but 0 with fuel planes. what should i make special note of with there operation?

Originally Posted by f/sgtgetten

next question i have lodes of time fling small electric planes but 0 with fuel planes. what should i make special note of with there operation?

Make sure you get the engine tuned well and that it idles low enough to actually land. You should tune the engine every time you go flying so that it doesn't quit on you mid flight due to changing atmospheric conditions.

A tach is a good piece of equipment to have, but usually you can tune by ear. Rotating the needle valve clockwise leans the mixture out and counterclockwise richens it up. Starting with the needle valve out 2 turns rich is usually a good place to start. Basically just start up the engine and slowly advance to full throttle. At full throttle, lean it out until it stops increasing in RPM and then back it off (rich) just a little, enough to drop RPM by about 200. It's good to have a tach for the precision, but backing off by about 1/4 turn is good. If you have experienced fuel pilots on hand they can give you more tips about tuning.

There is nothing different about flying a fuellie except that it might be a little heavier than a similar electric, and there is a true idle and you can't restart the engine if it quits... so dead stick means you are coming down now.

It would be good to have someone with nitro experience with you.

that is not posible i dont know anybody and i live in northern alberta
it is a 6hr drive to the nearest club

Originally Posted by f/sgtgetten

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...FUoKKgodsXgAcw
so this should work then

Yes,that should do it.
If you have to drive 6 hours to your nearest club,then you probably don't have a hobby store to buy fuel? Yikes. Ordering fuel in small quantities can be expensive. But you never said how you plan on getting fuel.

If it's an old plane,I would replace the clunk line inside the tank. But if it is really old,the stopper is probably hard. An since a stopper costs almost as much as a whole tank ... A starter is also nice. Flipping a prop gets old very quick on a motor that hasn't been started in a long time.
If you don't have any field equipment,and you are going to have to order fuel to boot. Converting the whole thing to electric might be more cost effective in the long run. Just something to think about
Fred

ok i guess i should have said i got all the prvise owners field equipment electric starter plug igniter and so on he said he has some fuel but he has to find it but it is old like 10 yrs old
i haver orderd a new tank, covering to fix the hanger rash and the voltage regulator
as for the club i am going to join i do travel that way every month or so and there is a store i can get fuel there. i have orderd some fuel to to get me started i dont have a fuel pump so is it posible to fill the tank without it?

You are going to need a pump, but a basic hand crank shouldn't be that much.

At least for your first flights, then, it might be possible to have some experienced help?

I think it would greatly improve the chance of success...