SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Jan 31, 2010, 01:58 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2007
17 Posts
help using waveoscope

I'm new to the audio doppler thing, dowloaded wavescope and can get it to work fine with the including sample wave files, but I made some wave files of other airplanes' speed passes and when I try to use them, waveocope gives me a division by zero error (in German) and the freaquency is listed as zero on both sides of the graph and I cannot get a speed reading. Any suggestions?

Mike
uhrik is offline Find More Posts by uhrik
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jan 31, 2010, 06:49 AM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2009
32 Posts
Any links to good 28mm heatsinks (for stock motor)?

How difficult is it to pop out the front and rear endbells on the stock motor?

I'm going to try to push 90 out of the stock motor and ESC on 4s with a 6x5.5 at 5,500 ft. elevation. Think it's possible?
Unsullied_Spy is offline Find More Posts by Unsullied_Spy
Last edited by Unsullied_Spy; Jan 31, 2010 at 07:23 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2010, 08:15 AM
Why the dirt on the wings?
moparmyway's Avatar
New York
Joined Jan 2009
4,999 Posts
Unsullied,
VERY possible if you run a heatsink and open the cooling holes in both end bells on that stock motor.
moparmyway is offline Find More Posts by moparmyway
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2010, 09:03 AM
Victim of C.D.O.
murdnunoc's Avatar
United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Oct 2007
4,081 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unsullied_Spy View Post
Any links to good 28mm heatsinks (for stock motor)?

How difficult is it to pop out the front and rear endbells on the stock motor?
Lightflight RC sells a good full size heat sink.
Go to products, accessories, heatsinks & clamshells and pick your 28mm size.

I've popped quite a few 28mm inrunners apart, and this is what works best for me:

Thread some very short screws (4mm) all the way into the bell with the shaft in it.

Clamp those two screws in a vise.

Use a small torch to heat up the area of the front bell. This will weaken the thread lock or epoxy that holds the front bell in. Be sparing with the heat. Don't want to damage the motor! You should be able to touch the parts of the motor you're not heating.

Use a small strap wrench (or rounded jaw vise grips if you don't mind scratches) to twist the can while the end cap stays put in the vise. Sharp twists work better.

Some caps are threaded into the can. Some are just glued. If it's glued, you'll have to induce some pulling force, too.

Once the front cap is off, you can pull the shaft/rotor out. Watch for any little spacer washers on the shaft.

You can't twist the back cap because of the wires coming out. They're always glued in. So you have to knock it out from the inside with a 1/2" dowel and a sharp smack on a solid surface. Heating this area will help, too, if you can figure out how to hold it.

Reassemble with epoxy and threadlock if the front cap was threaded in.
murdnunoc is offline Find More Posts by murdnunoc
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2010, 10:05 AM
Suspended Account
Long Island, New York
Joined Jun 2008
6,428 Posts
I have a CC Pheonix 25 ESC and a CC 10amp BEC, the set up draws about 23 amps.
Tarro is offline Find More Posts by Tarro
Reply With Quote  (Disabled)
Old Jan 31, 2010, 10:25 PM
Just above a newb
Wrathchild's Avatar
Fort Mill, SC
Joined Sep 2007
756 Posts
Hopefully the weather will turn for the better and I'll get to maiden my stock Stryker next weekend. What's the best way to launch this without a helper?

Does it have enough thrust to fly out of my hand with a light toss or do you need to get it moving a bit before it catches up?
Wrathchild is offline Find More Posts by Wrathchild
Reply With Quote
Old Jan 31, 2010, 11:06 PM
Registered User
ender707's Avatar
Sacramento, CA
Joined May 2009
718 Posts
I have been working on a new Full Size Heat Sink for the ARC 28-47-2170kv today. I am very happy with the results.

I took these pictures to show how well the Heat Sink is working with the customrcparts.com Motor Mount. You can see in the picture that the Heat Sink wraps all the way around the motor, and I only had to cut Corners off the Front of the Heat Sink to get it to snug up on the front of the Mount. I need to do a little bit more grinding to get it to sit perfect, but these pictures do it justice.

To make an eyeball guess at the Increase in Motor Surface Area covered by the Heat Sink on this Mount vs the Stock Mount, I would say somewhere around 25%

I got my spare mounting bracket in the mail, and will soon start working on hacking at it to get my Turnigy 2836 2350kv Outrunner to fit, as right now it will not work due to wire placement. New Toys
ender707 is offline Find More Posts by ender707
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 01, 2010, 03:33 AM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2009
32 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrathchild View Post
Hopefully the weather will turn for the better and I'll get to maiden my stock Stryker next weekend. What's the best way to launch this without a helper?

Does it have enough thrust to fly out of my hand with a light toss or do you need to get it moving a bit before it catches up?
Just give it the beans and then a decent toss and get your hand on the elevator right away. I typically toss mine and go vertical right away to get some altitude. You don't want to fly very low until you get a hang of flying, by flying up around 200 feet you should still be able to see it just fine and have some room to recover from a screw up.
Unsullied_Spy is offline Find More Posts by Unsullied_Spy
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 01, 2010, 09:42 AM
Victim of C.D.O.
murdnunoc's Avatar
United States, TX, Lubbock
Joined Oct 2007
4,081 Posts
I got my Scorpion HK3026-1400kv motor mounted up this weekend to see how a big outrunner does on a Stryker.

I've been having an issue with the ESC timing using my Supersimple 100A on 7S, leading to a stuttering motor at high throttle settings. The motor has 10 poles, so it's a task for any ESC to pull all those magnets by that at high RPM.
So I got around that timing problem by just backing the throttle down in my travel adjust in the transmitter. So no stuttering in the motor for the flights. It was probably running about like it would on 6 cells.

I took it easy on the motor until I can get it running on the right type of ESC, but HOWWIE!!! It was still rippin'! I can only figure it'll be absolutely awesome when I'm able to run wide open on 7S or 8S!

I have a Castle Ice 100 on the way, as I figure it'll have the best chance of any for timing the motor correctly.

The other major To Do list project is to mount the motor so the shaft is coming out the end of the motor with the fan in it, so the part of the motor that's currently facing aft will be facing forward, allowing air to enter those holes and exit the fan end.

I want to say this is an awesome setup and I'd recommend it to anyone looking for big power, but it's a little premature at this point. I still have to fly it some more to make sure it doesn't burn up or throw magnets by the bell flexing with the prop spinning on it.

I'll keep us posted on the setup.
murdnunoc is offline Find More Posts by murdnunoc
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 01, 2010, 10:34 AM
I LIVE FOR THIS!
gixxernoob's Avatar
Fairfax, VA
Joined Feb 2007
1,374 Posts
I got a stock setup and everytime I go full throttle the motor is struggling/stuttering... Anybody had that same problem on a stock setup i.e. brushless, 30amp with AR6200?
gixxernoob is offline Find More Posts by gixxernoob
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 01, 2010, 10:47 AM
Nothing Runs Like a Deere
lebus1's Avatar
Central Minnesota
Joined Jul 2008
100 Posts
Nope mine goes full throttle no problem.
lebus1 is offline Find More Posts by lebus1
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 01, 2010, 10:48 AM
Suspended Account
Long Island, New York
Joined Jun 2008
6,428 Posts
It sounds like your battery can't keep up with the motor, what battery are you using on it?
Tarro is offline Find More Posts by Tarro
Reply With Quote  (Disabled)
Old Feb 01, 2010, 10:54 AM
I LIVE FOR THIS!
gixxernoob's Avatar
Fairfax, VA
Joined Feb 2007
1,374 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarro View Post
It sounds like your battery can't keep up with the motor, what battery are you using on it?
I'm using Air Thunders 3s 11.1v 25C 2200mah. So I guess the ESC is just fine with the load? I was thinking about installing a CC BEC 10amp to help it out but not sure if it would do the trick if it's the battery...
gixxernoob is offline Find More Posts by gixxernoob
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 01, 2010, 10:56 AM
Nothing Runs Like a Deere
lebus1's Avatar
Central Minnesota
Joined Jul 2008
100 Posts
If you are using the stock motor that battery should work fine. I would suspect that your ESC is not working properly.
lebus1 is offline Find More Posts by lebus1
Reply With Quote
Old Feb 01, 2010, 12:33 PM
Registered User
GryphonRCU's Avatar
United States, CA, SF
Joined Mar 2008
3,861 Posts
murdnunoc,

Limiting your throttle electronically is a not a good thing.

I was going to link an article for you from Castle web site. After years of that article being there, they have removed it. I made a request to put it back up. It might happen in next day or two.
It'll be under Media tab; Castle Scribe, first issue, page 4(I think), called Myths.

As you might know, at 3/4 throttle, you are still running full AMPs.
The reason the Wattmeter will show less AMPs than Full AMPs, is because the ESC is switching it on/off and the meter averages it and due to fraction of the time that it is staying off it will show less than full AMPs while at part throttle.
Your ESC will run cooler and more efficient at full throttle.


***I suggest that you also buy Castle Link, because you will need it for your ESC to upgrade your firmware for free on each new release.
See Firmware revision history:
http://www.castlecreations.com/downl...h-phoenix.html

The tech said that your ICE 100A ESC will come with a free coupon to get you Castle link…well the main part of it….keep reading:
When we normally buy Castle link for $25 we get 2 pieces, the main part which connects to ESC, and then the USB cable (one end has mini USB like for cams etc.)
In your case, you can redeem your coupon and then use your own USB cable if you have one, or just add $8 for the USB cable at same time as you are mailing in the coupon.


The tech just told me that your ESC is good for 187,000 electrical RPM.
He said to find your RPM limit; you should divide that number by your number of poles and then multiply by 2.

187,000 /10 pole X 2 = 37,400 RPM for your particular application....good luck turning a high Pitch APC Pylon prop at that RPM...this new ESC should work fine for you.

He also said to run 8 KHz switching rate for your outrunner motor.


Have fun my friend, I wish you the very best with your research and testing.
For 5-7 second runs, you can pull over 100A from ICE 100A.



Gryphon
GryphonRCU is offline Find More Posts by GryphonRCU
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion Parkzone F-27C Stryker That can fly?!? Parkflyers 109 Sep 26, 2012 11:54 PM
Discussion Parkzone's New F-27C Stryker itspat Parkflyers 1 Nov 08, 2011 08:56 PM
Mini-Review F-27C Stryker Review That can fly?!? Parkflyers 27 Jul 29, 2010 09:25 PM
Discussion Parkzone F-27C Stryker 3S 11.1 V Balance Plug WDP Batteries and Chargers 12 Oct 26, 2009 09:44 AM
Discussion Coming soon! F-27C Stryker RTF with lipo and brushless Solcat Electric Plane Talk 0 May 31, 2006 01:34 PM