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Old May 18, 2014, 01:17 AM
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Flite Test Swappable Series

I was thinking about purchasing the 3-pack (the nutball, ft flyer, and delta). However, after researching a little more, I discovered that the swappable series is not really that swappable. The different kits (the plans for these kits are free on their website) require different motors, batteries, props, etc. The only things that I think are truly swappable are the ESC, receiver, and fuselage. Have any of you had any experience with the flite test kits? Are they worth it? This would be my first time doing a kit/scratch build by the way. Thanks for your time and help!
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Old May 18, 2014, 01:41 AM
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The basic 3 you've listed can run the same electronics. All the other planes can be run off another set of electronics. So really if you want to fly all of their planes you'd need 2 full electronics set ups.

There are many different motors/esc combos that will work but a 50-70g 2-300 watt motor with a 1500-2200 3S and 40a esc is what you'd need for the second electronics set up and it will fly everything from the versa, duster, all the way to the spit, racer, and mustang.
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Old May 18, 2014, 02:53 AM
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The kits are well worth the time to download the plans scratch build them. The speed build kits are worth the price, to me, when I don't want to take the time to measure and cut. I have not been disappointed with any of the FT designs that I have played with in either scratch or speed build. For the three pack, one power pod set up should swap through the three airframes and fly them well with no issues.

Be safe and have fun,
Tommy
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Old May 18, 2014, 10:07 AM
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Those FliteTest builds are very nice, but to me it seems almost pointless to build someone else's design according to a "script". Might as well just by an ARF - there are tons of very reasonably priced, very nice performing ARFs out there.

Now, if you're designing it yourself, then it's a whole different story. Even if you know the basic idea will work, it's a challenge to work out the implementation details and tweak stuff and re-test - that's rewarding for me.

In all cases, if the plane gets damaged you'll need to have some degree of understanding to repair and re-balance.
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Old May 18, 2014, 12:27 PM
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Nerdnic could I keep the same esc and receiver for all the airplanes? I'm just trying to figure out the cheapest setup possible to fly the most airplanes. I don't want a bunch of plane-specific parts that can only be used with one model.
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Old May 18, 2014, 01:53 PM
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Flite Test Swappable Series

Quote:
Originally Posted by benman2468 View Post
Nerdnic could I keep the same esc and receiver for all the airplanes? I'm just trying to figure out the cheapest setup possible to fly the most airplanes. I don't want a bunch of plane-specific parts that can only be used with one model.

Yes. I did just that. I started with a 40a esc which is heavy for the nutball but it worked. The delta and flyer won't know the difference. I used the same receiver for all my planes, it sits nicely in the power pod. So you'll end up with two different motors and two different batteries but the rest can be swapped.

I've built around 20 FT birds so far and have really enjoyed the scratch building aspect. It's such a cheap way to enjoy the hobby and the swappable design only adds to the value.
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Old May 18, 2014, 03:48 PM
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Two questions:

1. Would I need different props?

2. This probably had something to do with me not knowing what an esc does, but why do I need a 40a esc? The most that they recommend for any of their kits is 25a.
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Old May 18, 2014, 04:38 PM
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1. It will all depend on what motors you get. But likely you will have a slow fly prop on the smaller motor and a normal 8x6 apc on the bigger motor.

2. Depending on what motor you get for the big one, you can pull 30a easy. You always want 15-20% head room on your esc in general. The 40 just gives you more motor options.

Where are you planning to buy parts from? I can link some suggestions if you want.
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Old May 18, 2014, 04:54 PM
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Links are always appreciated! I was planning on ordering from hobbyking (US warehouse only). It just seems that the 40a is so much more expensive than the 25a
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Old May 18, 2014, 06:20 PM
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I just looked on HobbyKing's site.
The 25A ESC is about $13 and a 40A ESC is about $19 dollars (link provided below)
It just doesn't pay to NOT get the 40A

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ontroller.html
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Old May 18, 2014, 10:17 PM
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Why would a 40a esc be more expensive than a 45a esc?
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Old May 18, 2014, 10:25 PM
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The three-pack of swappables can take the same power pod - they can use the same motor, ESC, and receiver. All of them will run just fine on a 1300kv Blue Wonder and a 12amp ESC with an 8x4 prop. You certainly can use the same power pod, although swapping the servo connections would be a bit annoying.

A 40A ESC will work just as well, although it will add dead weight - you will not be pulling anywhere near that level of amp draw.

If you want a very beefy setup that will let the Nutball really perform, you can go for this kit:

http://www.altitudehobbies.com/flite...appable-series

It's slightly more expensive than HobbyKing, but all the parts are in one set and the connections have already been soldered for you.

Add in a 500mAh 3S or 800 mAh 2S and you'll have a really nice setup for all three.
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Old May 18, 2014, 11:16 PM
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I thought the linkage stoppers came with the servos. I see that the link wombatcontrol posted comes with 4 linkage stoppers and two servos. Do I need two stoppers per servo or I are there two extra in the kit? I also was not aware that I would have to solder anything. How would I know it the parts I'm looking at need soldering?
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Old May 18, 2014, 11:34 PM
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There are two extra. You'll only need one linkage stopper per servo.

Most ESCs and motors come with bare wires, so you'll need to do some soldering to connect them with bullet connectors. Smaller motors like the Blue Wonder will usually use 2mm bullet connectors. Larger motors use the 3.5mm bullet connectors.

You'll also generally need to add your own battery connector. The good news is that with these airframes, you'll want to use JST connectors. With JST connectors, you can just crimp pins on the wires with a wire crimper or a needle-nosed pliers - you don't need to solder those.
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Old May 19, 2014, 12:53 AM
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Ok so:

The servos: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ehouse%5F.html

The battery: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ehouse%5F.html

The motor: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ehouse%5F.html

The ESC: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ehouse%5F.html


Do any of these need soldering, and if so, what parts do I need? Links are very helpful.
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