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Old Jan 13, 2012, 08:10 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
12,465 Posts
For even better performance, try a GWS 5043 prop + adapter. With a high-quality battery, the 5043 will generate considerably more thrust than the P-51 prop on the same battery - along with better top speed. Which means that you can fly around at much lower throttle settings, and have plenty of reserve power for long zoom-climbs, big & round scale loops, etc.

See my blog thread on the topic for links: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...73&postcount=1

An option for adjusting the CG that actually improves performance is to use a Hyperion 180 or 240 mAh 'flatpack' cell. No dead-weight required, and you get the most thrust & highest top speed of any UM battery available. The CG is right on the money with the Hyp 180 where it is in the pic. With a Hyp 240 at the rear of the wider part of the slot, the CG is also right on the money.

In this video, I'm using the 5043 prop ($1) and a plug & play Hyp 240 cell ($5). I'm flying around @ 50-70% throttle, and only go to full power for maneuvers:

Flying Park Zone's UM Corsair in my yard (6 min 33 sec)


Joel
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Last edited by turboparker; Jan 13, 2012 at 08:31 PM.
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 08:46 PM
Have fun
airpower's Avatar
Joined May 2007
6,235 Posts
I like the stock prop, it looks nice and has a scale spinner. Yes, compared to other brushed ums it's down on power, but it's plenty fast for scale flight and the low pitch like thrust allows plenty of power to do loops/Immelmann comfortably and climbs well w/o having to go to full throttle.
Also, it has great prop clearance, this corsair is one of the toughest to land of any airplane I've flown, the 3blade provides clearance for bumpy landings, and because the tips spin at a lower speed, if it does hit the pavement the prop is not that damaged.
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 09:21 PM
Do you see what I see?
rcoconut's Avatar
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Joined Sep 2006
1,775 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by airpower View Post
I like the stock prop, it looks nice and has a scale spinner. Yes, compared to other brushed ums it's down on power, but it's plenty fast for scale flight and the low pitch like thrust allows plenty of power to do loops/Immelmann comfortably and climbs well w/o having to go to full throttle.
Also, it has great prop clearance, this corsair is one of the toughest to land of any airplane I've flown, the 3blade provides clearance for bumpy landings, and because the tips spin at a lower speed, if it does hit the pavement the prop is not that damaged.
Are you using a "bigger" battery with her with the 3-bladed prop? Or is the tail aft CG not an issue for you? I know I should fly the plane before I post any more but I'm trying to get the "feel" for her so I have an idea. Besides a little under power and possibly tail heavy. I do like that Hyperion 180 in your pic Turboparker, & nice flying in your back yard!!
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Last edited by rcoconut; Jan 13, 2012 at 09:21 PM. Reason: spelling correction
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 10:25 PM
Have fun
airpower's Avatar
Joined May 2007
6,235 Posts
I don't think it's underpowered, this is a warbird, not a sukhoi!
I am using hyp 160s with it, with enough cowl foam carved out to shove it as far as the battery cord lets it go.
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Old Jan 13, 2012, 11:07 PM
Diverted by planks
tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
5,474 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by airpower View Post
I like the stock prop, it looks nice and has a scale spinner. Yes, compared to other brushed ums it's down on power, but it's plenty fast for scale flight and the low pitch like thrust allows plenty of power to do loops/Immelmann comfortably and climbs well w/o having to go to full throttle.
Also, it has great prop clearance, this corsair is one of the toughest to land of any airplane I've flown, the 3blade provides clearance for bumpy landings, and because the tips spin at a lower speed, if it does hit the pavement the prop is not that damaged.
Seconded. I know why others might want to go to the two bladed prop, and that's certainly their prerogative, but I have other planes that are modded or faster, so I'm happy to leave this one with more scale-like performance, now that with the dime mod it flies stable and slow when I want it to.
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 12:00 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
12,465 Posts
Rcoconut,

Thanks! I have a lot of fun flying micros in the yard. When I want to fly my big stuff, I'm only 5 miles from the club field. However, my nitro & gas planes have been collecting a lot of hangar dust as-of-late, with all of the fun micros that are now available. Of the current UM warbirds, the F4U & Mossie are my favorites. Wish they'd come out with a P-47, though. Preferably a UMX version with the 2s brushless setup. Or a P-38. The P-47 is my favorite fighter, followed by the P-38. My dad flew Jugs in northern Italy during WWII & Lightnings up in Alaska after the war.

It only takes a few seconds to widen the battery slot for the Hyp flat-packs, and it doesn't compromise the structural integrity of the airframe.

If you're interested, I have 90+ RC videos on my YouTube channel.

AP,

We've seen a 20% variability in output with these 8.5mm motors. 20% is a big deal in an aircraft. You may have one of the stronger motors. Mine would not do a scale loop from level flight with the 3-blade prop. Otherwise, I would have kept it. Regarding prop clearance, I find it easy to grease it in for a trhee-pointer when landing power-on, so I haven't had any prop-strike issues with the 5043.

I think you may underestimate the performance of the top WWII air-superiority fighters.

The full-scale F4U was a snarling, hopped-up air-superiority fighter that could cruise at well over 400 MPH without even breathing hard. Along with the P-47, it was one of the most serious hot-rods in the sky. 2450 HP at only 9200 pounds empty. Putting that into perspective - a 920-pound aerobatic plane with 245 HP will effortlessly do every aerobatic maneuver in the book.

With water-injection engaged, later models could effortlessly execute huge, round loops and four-mile-high zoom-climbs. Top speed in level flight was 447 MPH, climb-rate was 3870 FPM, and service-ceiling was 41,000 feet. It could do point-rolls, fast rolls, snap-rolls, KE passes, Cuban eights, inverted flight, stall-turns, Immelmann turns, split-esses, extended vertical climbs, and more. In many ways, it was the Sukhoi and air-racer of its day all wrapped up into one airframe - with guns, armor and hard-points.

Joel
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 01:55 AM
Have fun
airpower's Avatar
Joined May 2007
6,235 Posts
To each his own, maybe I did get a slightly more powerful one! I use my corsair for more close in smooth flying, with occasional high speed flybys and low loops and low split s's, I don't really need more engine power, even though at low speeds it seems very yaw unstable, I guess that tiny close scale v.stab loses a lot of effectiveness at low speeds and higher aoa.
Those WWII fighters are amazing, the best a prop plane could ever get! The twitchiness of the really small ones takes out a lot of scale flight, but it does seem a lot more stable at high speed. It really depends how good you are at pretending!
Atleast were both very happy with it and very satisfied!
I'm all for high performance warbirds, large loops, strong rolls and split s's, but I'm not gonna fixate and focus on it with this plane, its about fun little warbird sorties in your street, so im completely satisfied with the 3 blade. We both have fun with it, it's preference rather than good or bad. Options.
Oh, Joel, read your post again, I knew how high performance they were, they are so popular at Reno air races! The p-38 had many experienced that served as early transonic flight research, Mach tuck, need for supercritical airfoils. But could they really KE And point/slow roll?! I didn't know that! That's amazing!
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 11:18 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
12,465 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by airpower View Post
To each his own, maybe I did get a slightly more powerful one! I use my corsair for more close in smooth flying, with occasional high speed flybys and low loops and low split s's, I don't really need more engine power, even though at low speeds it seems very yaw unstable, I guess that tiny close scale v.stab loses a lot of effectiveness at low speeds and higher aoa.
Those WWII fighters are amazing, the best a prop plane could ever get! The twitchiness of the really small ones takes out a lot of scale flight, but it does seem a lot more stable at high speed. It really depends how good you are at pretending!
Atleast were both very happy with it and very satisfied!
I'm all for high performance warbirds, large loops, strong rolls and split s's, but I'm not gonna fixate and focus on it with this plane, its about fun little warbird sorties in your street, so im completely satisfied with the 3 blade. We both have fun with it, it's preference rather than good or bad. Options.
Oh, Joel, read your post again, I knew how high performance they were, they are so popular at Reno air races! The p-38 had many experienced that served as early transonic flight research, Mach tuck, need for supercritical airfoils. But could they really KE And point/slow roll?! I didn't know that! That's amazing!
AP,

Yeah, I think the "scaleness" of the UM F4U gets in the way at times. But then part of why I like the plane is that it has some warbird manners - unlike the UM P-51, which feels like an aileron trainer to me. I do hope they use a proper airfoil on the next round of UM warbirds, though. An under-cambered airfoil on a fighter just feels wrong to me. You mentioned the twitchiness. I'm hoping that they incorporate AS3X into the next round of UM warbirds. It works very well on the Beast 3D - makes it feel much more like a 40 or 60-size ship than a 2oz foamie. Just what's needed to get these UM warbirds to fly 'big'.

What a great time it is to be in this hobby!!

Regarding the full-scale birds - a number of them were capable of executing most of the basic aerobatic maneuvers. I've watched a few full-scale WWII fighters execute point-rolls, snap-rolls, KE & inverted passes, rolling zoom-climbs, etc. I once had the pleasure of watching a Jug do a WOT pass down on the deck with water-injection engaged. The huge turbocharger screamed like a turbojet, the monstrous P&W R2800 radial literally shook the ground as it belted out ~2,800 HP, and the sound of the 13-foot paddle-bladed 4-blade prop tearing the air apart was deafening. Absolutely astounding power & performance for a prop plane! I have never witnessed anything else quite like it. Similar to being up-close to a Top Fuel dragster making a pass - but even more awe-inspiring. I also have some P-47 training films from WWII that include detailed flight-performance footage. Seeing what WWII planes such as the Jug could really do is a jaw-dropping experience. For instance - can you imagine a 17,000-pound airplane with a 41' wingspan that has nearly a 100-degree/sec roll-rate? The Jug did. Imagine doing a full roll in less than 4 seconds with a 17,000-pound prop-plane!

And then there was the Goodyear F2G Super Corsair - with its 4360 cube, 3,000 HP P&W radial. It had a climb-rate of 5,100 FPM! Can't forget the absolute king of the recip-powered hot-rods - the F8F-2 Bearcat. It had a mind-blowing 6,300 FPM climb-rate!!

Sadly, it is no longer possible to witness such performance from most of these planes. Aside from the few hot-rodded Mustangs, Super Corsairs & Bearcats that are used for racing - nobody flies them so aggressively nowadays. In fact, it's been decades since I've heard of anyone going to war-emergency-power on an F4U or P-47. Nobody wants to risk damaging an engine, as no one is making replacement parts for the R2800. Plus - the increased maintenance that is required when running the engine so hard is just too expensive. Most of the flyable Jugs today don't even have functional turbos or water-injection systems.

You might get the idea that I'm a WWII fighter buff. You would be correct!

Happy flights!

Joel
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 01:50 PM
Have fun
airpower's Avatar
Joined May 2007
6,235 Posts
Joel,
Wow!! It's nice knowing someone who has that kind of respect and love for that era! The other day I was carrying my mossie to the flying field, and this guy said "ooh cool a b-29!!" hahaha. It was funny. Tbh, I do love airplanes(especially jets from 50s and 60s), and I loved WWII planes as much as I loved other planes. But this um corsair and mossie, with their such scale looks and satisfying flight, has gotten me much more into WWII planes! I went into my garage and found these plastic model kits of a mustang and liberator that I built a while ago. I've also been inspired by the weathering video by HH, I'm going to get some pastels today to make gun powder stains, exhaust stains, and little bits of rust on my mossie and corsair.
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Old Jan 14, 2012, 04:05 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
3,169 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by airpower View Post
I like the stock prop, it looks nice and has a scale spinner. Yes, compared to other brushed ums it's down on power, but it's plenty fast for scale flight and the low pitch like thrust allows plenty of power to do loops/Immelmann comfortably and climbs well w/o having to go to full throttle.
Also, it has great prop clearance, this corsair is one of the toughest to land of any airplane I've flown, the 3blade provides clearance for bumpy landings, and because the tips spin at a lower speed, if it does hit the pavement the prop is not that damaged.
I took the 3-bladed prop and just twisted the blades a bit to get more pitch. I didn't apply heat or anything, just massaged them for a bit while watching TV. It made a very noticeable difference, almost as good as the Mustang prop. I haven't tried the 5043 yet. I know what you mean about clearance, and this plane has a tendency (passion) for nosing over on landings unless you can find a really smooth surface.

I am going to take Joel's advice and get a better motor and prop, but they are out of stock right now on the motors. Don't twist so hard you actually bend it in one spot, just gently massage the blades and twist and spread the change out over the whole length.
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 12:33 AM
Registered User
Columbus, Indiana
Joined Nov 2004
336 Posts
Okay guys I've got a question. I just got a brand new BNF corsair last week. the first flight was flown with the battery from the box after charging with the included charger and AA batts. I flew a few circuits and the motor cut out. Still had total control, just no motor. Then after a few seconds of stick at idle it would come back on for a few more seconds. I flew maybe three minutes like this and landed. I attributed this to the battery being new or the charger AA batts being mostly dead. So I get home and charge the battery on a wall plug in charger, eliminating the AA batt variable. I go out to fly and get the same thing. I plug in the battery and everything works fine. Take off and four or five seconds of full throttle and bam, engine off gliding. The only difference now is that once it cuts out it won't come back on at all. I am using a radio from an extra Champ I had laying around. Am I missing something? Also the servos are very loud when not moving. kinda like the high powered digitals that are always buzzing. Is this all normal. I have been flying the Champ for a year or so and really haven't had any problems from it at all. Anybody have this problem or know what's going on? Is it the radio, bad 5 in 1 board, or something else?
thanks,
Martin
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 03:50 AM
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Illonois
Joined Oct 2007
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Originally Posted by mcjustis View Post
Okay guys I've got a question. I just got a brand new BNF corsair last week. the first flight was flown with the battery from the box after charging with the included charger and AA batts. I flew a few circuits and the motor cut out. Still had total control, just no motor. Then after a few seconds of stick at idle it would come back on for a few more seconds. I flew maybe three minutes like this and landed. I attributed this to the battery being new or the charger AA batts being mostly dead. So I get home and charge the battery on a wall plug in charger, eliminating the AA batt variable. I go out to fly and get the same thing. I plug in the battery and everything works fine. Take off and four or five seconds of full throttle and bam, engine off gliding. The only difference now is that once it cuts out it won't come back on at all. I am using a radio from an extra Champ I had laying around. Am I missing something? Also the servos are very loud when not moving. kinda like the high powered digitals that are always buzzing. Is this all normal. I have been flying the Champ for a year or so and really haven't had any problems from it at all. Anybody have this problem or know what's going on? Is it the radio, bad 5 in 1 board, or something else?
thanks,
Martin
its the battery mixed with the cold,

stock battery i fly about 2 min max in the slight cold but on summer days no biggy here, i now use a TP 25c 125mah with no probs in colder condition, idk much about lipos but the higher the current ratings the better it flys, for me in cold weather
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 10:19 AM
Just here for the pie.
Canada, BC, Ashcroft
Joined Jun 2011
393 Posts
Martin, I had the same concern. When I contacted Parkzone (Horizon Hobby brand), they told me it was normal. The sound is a result of the servos constantly readjusting. It seems like a tremendous waste of energy to me. The brick should just put the servo at the position it needs to be and be done with it. We might get an extra minute of flight time without the constant readjustment.

As for the batteries, it depends on the temperature. I fly Thunder Power 160mAh 25C batteries in mine and get less than 3 minutes when it drops below 5 C (41 F)--and less than 1 minute in sub zero (32 F or less). I also get more than 10 minutes when it's above 20 C (68 F). With a little creative throttle management, I can get about 14 minutes.

It sounds like you experienced the low-voltage cut-off. I hope you were able to land safely. You may notice that prior to the motor shutting off, it sounds like it's wavering or sputtering. Prior to that, performance will lessen. At least that's how it goes with mine.

I've made enough flights in enough temperatures that I have a good feel for when to bring her in for a battery change--usually when I have to keep the throttle above 40% just to cruise.

Cheers!
Randall
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 10:40 AM
Fly em if ya got em.
leethetreeguy's Avatar
Winder Ga
Joined Sep 2008
12,142 Posts
If you have a good battery. Like a hyp or even better a MA one. Keep it in a warm place. Pull it out and quickly get her in the air WOT. That might get you an extra minute or so. Lee
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 12:34 PM
Registered User
Columbus, Indiana
Joined Nov 2004
336 Posts
The first flight out of the box was in mid 50 degrees. As far as the sputtering sound before it dies, it does this from the start. I'll try warming the battery and see if that does the trick. I also bought some other batts when I got the plane, but there was no Velcro on them so I haven't tried them. I'll give them a shot also.
Thanks for the help.
Martin
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