joel , if water made it to the brick open the fuse and give the internal servos a shot or two as well threw me off , must have read it wrong cause the only internal servo inside are the flap, and elev and rudder which are the brick,no big deal , also i got a flight in this am and im very torn cause i think i have 3 areas of concern for this plane and me,and it has to do with my location. #1 i live approx 1/2 mile from the atlantic ocean, lots of salty h2o in the air, # 2 i fly in the back yard which is the intercoastal, brackish water and #3 when i fly early or late there is fog in the air, moisture, noticed on a few flight the inside of the windshield is damp, so after i fly the plane sits and the corrodes, i just love cubs and this one is way too cute, hats off to horrozion for the great customer service, but i dont think its going to work for the above reasons for very long for me very sad face

Originally Posted by cbear

joel , if water made it to the brick open the fuse and give the internal servos a shot or two as well threw me off , must have read it wrong cause the only internal servo inside are the flap, and elev and rudder which are the brick,no big deal , also i got a flight in this am and im very torn cause i think i have 3 areas of concern for this plane and me,and it has to do with my location. #1 i live approx 1/2 mile from the atlantic ocean, lots of salty h2o in the air, # 2 i fly in the back yard which is the intercoastal, brackish water and #3 when i fly early or late there is fog in the air, moisture, noticed on a few flight the inside of the windshield is damp, so after i fly the plane sits and the corrodes, i just love cubs and this one is way too cute, hats off to horrozion for the great customer service, but i dont think its going to work for the above reasons for very long for me very sad face

I can help. I will trade you, where you live for where I live.
Just trying to help.
Rn

Cbear,

Yes, I said give the rudder & elevator servos a shot or two - but that doesn't imply that one should spray the entire brick.

Regarding corrosion - the CC is most definitely not suited for flying off saltwater. As is the case with everything when you live on the coast - corrosion is a concern. However - many tens of thousands of people fly RC in coastal areas. It just takes a bit more preventative maintenance. BTW - there is no salt in regular fog or morning dew, as the salt stays behind when saltwater evaporates. I suppose that at only a half-mile away, you still see some wind-whipped salt-fog, though. Do you have corrosion problems with cars, outdoor antennas, etc. in your neighborhood? If not, you will be just fine when flying on wheels. If so, you may want to clean the servos more often.

Joel

Well...being a skier I thought I would mod the CC water floats for snow (ROS). I had a problem with the stock floats. They worked well until the snow warmed and softened. In new loose snow I could taxi about and really carve some nice turns. In warm snow all the floats would do is go straight. I have my rudder control horn on inner hole.
My plan was to shave down the floats so the bases were flat like snow skis. I was amazed at how heavy the floats made the plane fly so a little weight off them seemed good also. I cut the floats down to the shape shown in the photo. Results were: I only lost 2 grams of weight total for both but the plane does feel a bit lighter and I don't need to trim the elevator for the weight now. No difference in the tracking though. It was 10 degrees at flight time with 2 inches of new so I'm not definite on any improvements but it didn't seem much different. So all I got from this mod was floats a bit lighter.
Really having a great time landing on snow. Very good for my glide path and soft touch landing practice. No worries about lining up runway as it's unlimited with the snow on the field. I'm thinking it's going to be odd landing on tarmac someday when the snow leaves us.
Mike

shastamike...

did you try packing tape on the bottom? ... its super slippery on all types of snow. Or is there another reason they won't turn in your current snow condition?

Here's another tip for turning on snow. When I attempted to taxi in snow conditions that made turning impossible at normal taxi speeds, I found that taxiing fast enough to take some weight off the floats solved the problem. Also - extending the flaps to the take-off position will generate the required lift at a lower taxi speed.

Joel

Just completed my test fights with the 0503 prop and tp325 battery. I could not tell if the 5030 prop was any more efficient or not but I can tell you one thing for certain. THat prop is much more durable to blade strikes than the stock prop was.

As for the battery, I like the duration you get from it. It does seem to fly slightly faster with it but landing is much easier with the extra weight. THe approaches are faster and tend to nose over less when no flaps are used. With flaps deployed, I am sure the approaches are still faster but it is hard to tell the difference. The added weight seems to keep the plan from dropping like a brick immediagly once you flair out. It still will stall out but the time between flair and stall seems to be a little wider. With the 180 pack, I had to make approaches on a 30 degree decline ((no flaps) in order to keep from stalling and nosing over when it touched down. Seems my approach may be in the aea of 25 degrees or so. Slightly better.

Any one else notice that this plane is easier to fly heavy?

Originally Posted by North_of_49

shastamike...

did you try packing tape on the bottom? ... its super slippery on all types of snow. Or is there another reason they won't turn in your current snow condition?

North...you bet I used packing tape. I know good glide. You guys up north probably don't get wet snow until April. We get it twice a week. I'm hoping the flat bottoms will turn in the wetter snow.

Originally Posted by turboparker

Here's another tip for turning on snow. When I attempted to taxi in snow conditions that made turning impossible at normal taxi speeds, I found that taxiing fast enough to take some weight off the floats solved the problem. Also - extending the flaps to the take-off position will generate the required lift at a lower taxi speed.

Joel

Joel I had a lot of taxi time this morning. Made a bunch of patterns in the snow which was almost as fun as the flying part. It would be interesting to hear what people think made the tracks. Taxi fast did help get the skis loose and turning, but with care as it would turn into a quick loop. I tried half flaps and didn't really see any difference, but I'll look into that. What did help a bit was taxi turn with rudder and aileron just like i was in the air. The aileron would take a bit of weight off the outside ski and help the turn. Quite the opposite of regular ski technique, but foam don't turn like real skis.
I'm thinking that if the tape starts coming off I'm going to try shaping the edges rounder to reduce tracking. I still have plenty of foam left.
Thanks to all for the advice. Looks like it might be awhile before I ROT (roll on tarmac?) My Beast and Sbach are gathering dust.
Mike

Rscarawa,

I also think it flies better with a bit more weight. The TP 325 65c pack is my favorite in this plane. RCBabbel's custom lightweight version provides the highest thrust-to-weight of any pack that will fit. Of course, the CC has power to spare for any maneuver even with lesser packs, but I'm always interested in maximizing efficiency, and the TP 355 65c is definitely the most efficient UMX pack so far.

Joel

hey A RDNEK , i love that name , funny but there are days around here that id take you up on the switch thing, ive got alot of projects going on right now here at home , i have the only house for miles with no sod in the yard,installed a bulkhead and the trachoe tore it up and now im getting used to not haveing to mow the grass, kinda nice and joel, i make it a habit never to argue with a rocket sciencetist, but i cant resist, when you say quote...if it made it to the brick...sorry but to me that means brick, your words not mine.please can we let this dog rest..also id like to clear the air about the term salt air. its true what you said about evap and salt, sodium chloride has a very low vapor pressure and will not evaporate or subline except at exceedingly high temputures, however, the action of wave or as i like to call it surf throws tiny droplets of salt water into the air, when the water evaporates it takes nano ( very teenie) scale particles of sodium chloride(salt but very teensie)in the air, carried by the wind dependant of speed and temp for miles(pretty far)or my house so durring high humid or fog conditions there are in fact trace par. tic.cle of sodium choride in the air...hence the term salt air. and now the cc, why we all are here.to offer constructive advice and share a comon love for model avation.imo if you bring a plane to the market, offer a float kit, cut a air hole 3/4 of a inch away from the reciever(brick) and then have countless failures thats just (plane) PUN INTENDED stupid. ive been in this hobby since 1965, my father flew rc when test tubes lit up your hands and a controlled crash was the best you could hope for, to defend something because you sleep with it is just silly, is this a cute plane, do we like the way it looks and flys,heck yeah, but there is a issue with the boards, be it dissimilar metals, galvanic corrosion, or mabe the leadfree soder train wreck thats heading our way. dont know, dont care, if they get the bugs worked out , im all in, would buy another in a new york minute, but today mine went back for a full refund, gona miss the plane, just not the bs

Originally Posted by shastamike

North...you bet I used packing tape. I know good glide. You guys up north probably don't get wet snow until April. We get it twice a week. I'm hoping the flat bottoms will turn in the wetter snow.
...

Yeah, about March

Had a record January last year, though... 18 days above freezing... was new to the hobby and had my mcx2 and 120sr helis outside alot

Question about tail feather repair. My rudder and elevator have crease lines on them and are getting a little deformed. What can be done to extend the life of these parts? I saw someone replaced the parts with balsa mock ups. Short of replacing these parts, does any one have good patch methods for these?

Originally Posted by rscarawa

Question about tail feather repair. My rudder and elevator have crease lines on them and are getting a little deformed. What can be done to extend the life of these parts? I saw someone replaced the parts with balsa mock ups. Short of replacing these parts, does any one have good patch methods for these?

This post just came in on the main CC thread.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...85631&page=352

The Varathane he used... water based polyurethane (wbpu) is similar to a water based finishing resin by Deluxe Materials called EZE Kote that I just used a couple of days ago, along with 24g cloth, to glass my Super Cub's wing tips. Very light weight especially if you don't use the cloth... which I wouldn't on something as small and CG sensitive as the CC.

Some guys like the Minwax Polycrylic which is an acrylic (the "poly" stands for polymer... it's not polyurethane) hardened wood finisher like the wbpu.

Originally Posted by rscarawa

Question about tail feather repair. My rudder and elevator have crease lines on them and are getting a little deformed. What can be done to extend the life of these parts? I saw someone replaced the parts with balsa mock ups. Short of replacing these parts, does any one have good patch methods for these?

I've done the balsa. Creases were the main reason, second reason was to increase the surface area of the elevator and rudder for more tail authority. Worked well for both but the down side was the need to add several grams of clay behind the motor mount to off-set the slightly heavier tail. I covered it in post #184 There is flight video on post #192 I have crashed hard enough twice to break the tail foam piece the holds both rudder and stablizer off the fuse but have not damaged the balsa yet. So on that note, the balsa is much more durable.

Originally Posted by ChuckTseeker

yep the next time i fly off water i want to make it a little more waterproof i got water through the front cowls holes calm water only for this little plane i reckon

heres my first fly off the water, EVER!

cheers chuck

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BVh-sZ4CRs

corrosion x works wonders