Originally Posted by jfetter

dx8+ 10 = dx18 ;-)

I have a Dx7s, I will have take the chance and buy a dx18 enjoy I'm in USA and in Brasil is very expensive.

Originally Posted by hklagges

Make a picture of your ESCs and post it, than we can compare. I have both the series 1 45A ESCs and the series 2 65A ESCs lying around here somewhere for the comparison.

Cheers,
Henrik

Open my Sebart today. The pictures show my esc is so differente, what version is?

Originally Posted by rogerio

Open my Sebart today. The pictures show my esc is so differente, what version is?

Rogerio, you should take the plastic off before taking the pictures so it's more clear. However, looking through the plastic bag, it look like yours has cooling fins on them. Mine are smooth and someone posted that I have the new ones. The old ones have fins on them. Also, mine almost fills the entire opening of the ESC cavity.
Take a look at my pics in post #1463 and the few posts right after mine for the replies from others.

Xviper I will take another pictures without plastic. Please confirm me your conector to battery with is Deans or not? Mine is Deans.

I don't have deans. Here is a picture of what I do have. They are separate, large yellow metal connectors. The corresponding connectors are in the bag you see in the picture. I believe I use those to make my own adapter. I'll probably end up with an HXT 4mm, which is what my batteries have.
It looks like you and I have 2 different versions of this plane.

Yes, yours is the newer, is the same as I see in Graves Hobby.
Mine is the older. So bad.

Originally Posted by rogerio

Yes, yours is the newer, is the saem as I see in Graves Hobby.
Mine is the order. So bad.

I hope Cliff is still reading this thread and offers you a quick and satisfactory resolution to this mess. You should contact him anyway. It's a shame you came so far for this. Had you known, you could have just bought yours at Graves while you were there.
Oh, and have a look at this YouTube video of a recent review of this plane. The guy has had some very alarming defects with his that we need to look at very carefully when we build ours.

SebArt Mig 29 3D EDF thrust vector REVIEW (14 min 28 sec)

not sure he knows what he is talking about in that video xviper

EPO foam? No, it's EPS.

His gyro problem is related to gain, being in HH mode - not a fault, but poor installation/setup.

throttle curve is a problem with his TX, not the plane.

TV falling off on maiden - Plane was not checked thoroughly before flying and was not built properly, as he admits - not a fault of the plane.

Not using velcro along the cockpit base to secure battery? Silly boy, not a fault of the plane.

Thin foam, yes, I'll give him that, but we do want it light.

I am surprised that he didnt mention the fragile nose.......

Flaws? there really aren't as many as he suggests.

The flaws on this plane are very limited; thin, brittle plasic control horns and clevises are my main issue along with the desire to see the nose reinforced with a skid OR a breakaway nose... but we've been flying ours with little issues to date, it's been 14 months now and besides the crash (not Seba's fault!), the plane is exactly what it is advertised to be. Mine pulls 113 Amps on a Thunder Power 65C packs and still the motors and ESC's (v1.0) are holding out just fine, as are the servos. Those that complain about trimming, IT'S A VECTORED PLANE!, It needs attention to detail and unerstanding of sub-trimming the nozzles seperately from the surfaces. IMO this plane is more expensive than I'd like to see ($400 - $425 with Gyro would be great) but it is exactly what is says it is, works exactly as advertised and for how complex the control systems and programming are, isn't that hard to build and get flying! Now those that insist on ignoring the mixes (each of them has a specific purpose), I am not surprised it doesn't fly well...

Jack

Not knowing this plane, I had to take his video at face value. Your comments here are appreciated.

Originally Posted by xviper

Not knowing this plane, I had to take his video at face value. Your comments here are appreciated.

Build it properly and set it up properly (including being patient with subtrims of VT and elevator) and you will love it (if you forgive it for being EPS) - That's promise

Originally Posted by jfetter

it is exactly what is says it is, works exactly as advertised and for how complex the control systems and programming are, isn't that hard to build and get flying!

+1

Cheers,
Henrik

Well, I thought I would be ready to go this week. NOT!
I'm having trouble getting the rudder vector nozzles to work. I think the problem is with the gyro programming or the GEAR:GEAR mix. I'm using a DX8 with AR8000 RX.
I know the servo on the rudder vector works because when I plug the "rudder" plug into a servo tester and move it side to side, the main rudder surfaces move and the nozzle rudder vector moves, only with a slight delay. I have to turn the knob quite a ways to each end before the nozzles follow and they do it very slowly.
Once I hook "rudder" up to the RX, the nozzles don't go side to side with rudder stick. The main rudders work and so do all the other control surfaces. The nozzle AUX1 and AUX2 servos work with the ailerons and elevators so I must have all the other mixes correct. I didn't do MIX 7 for better knife edge flight as I don't have enough mixes.
The instructions in the manual is for a JR radio and I'm sure I just don't have the right MIX or gyro programming done correctly. The light on the gyro is constant ON.
Anyone got any ideas or would be good enough to PM me the program for DX8?

PS. Just remembered. When rudder is plugged into the RX, it appears that the rudder vector servo isn't even energized as it can be moved quite easily like any unpowered servo. When energized, a servo offers some resistance to being moved.

I have mine on a Y-lead to the rudder servo - have they changed that setup to a separate channel? If on a Y-lead it will have nothing to do with mixes if the main rudder surfaces are working ok.

Anyhow - not sure your servo is good TBH - doesn't seem to respond to the tester correctly. Mine is on a Y-lead and reacts instantly with rudder input, via a gyro.

IF it is on a Y-lead, try taking it off and plugging directly into the servo tester and see if it reacts properly.

If it isnt on a Y-lead, try putting it on one and see what happens.

As for the gyro, try taking it out of the equation while you test the servo - it will only complicate things. Put it in the loop last of all, once you know everything else is ok.

Finally - are you certain your RX/Servos are getting enough power? (i.e. good battery)

Good luck!

Originally Posted by Impailer

I have mine on a Y-lead to the rudder servo - have they changed that setup to a separate channel?

No. In the V2 that I have, that part is like in the V1.

If on a Y-lead it will have nothing to do with mixes if the main rudder surfaces are working ok.

Correct.

Cheers and good luck,
Henrik