Thank you for sharing this nice video. It stabilized at post-production ?

This looks like a tough climate for LiPo batteries !
What type of battery are you using ? What flight time do you obtain ?

Originally Posted by cvs

I have built my own modified FH-H800 with protection for dust and splashing water (&snow).
Using Wookong-M controller and Futaba T8FG super transmitter.
I also have a DS02 gimbal and I have removed the original servos and added modified Align DS650 servos. I am using a Tarot ZYX-GS gimbal controller.
I have several camera options and video downlink with a 5.8GHz 25mW transmitter connected to a 9" display (25mW is highest allowed in Finland ). Works however OK on short range.

Attachment 5573482

Winter tests video enclosed (Gopro hero3)
http://youtu.be/g5tsOCunKfo

Many thanks for the build log and all comments posted!

Look like you dont have your esc calibrate. at 00:09 the props on the right spin but the on in the middle did not spin until you almost off the ground. my wookong does the same thing when i first start build my fy680 after esc calibrate everything spin at start up nicely

Originally Posted by sPiKes777

Thank you for sharing this nice video. It stabilized at post-production ?

This looks like a tough climate for LiPo batteries !
What type of battery are you using ? What flight time do you obtain ?

Yes; I today tried first time the YouTube stabilization option. However original video was already good.
I am using Zippy 4S 8000mAh LiPo batteries. One battery at a time.
Yes, the low temperatures put the equipment on some extra stress. Keeping the other batteries warm in the car or in my pocket until mounting.
At this time I keep it safe and take the hexa down latest at 7min.
I will try later two paralell LiPo batteries to see how much extra time I might get.

Originally Posted by Askyvision

Look like you dont have your esc calibrate. at 00:09 the props on the right spin but the on in the middle did not spin until you almost off the ground. my wookong does the same thing when i first start build my fy680 after esc calibrate everything spin at start up nicely

Interesting comment related to esc calibration! I am not sure if you are correct!?
I have done the esc (HobbyWing FlyFun 30A for multirotor) programming with a programmer and my settings are:
1. Brake: Off
2. Battery Type: Ni-xx.
3. cut off type: Soft cut
4. Cut of voltage: Low
5. Start mode: Normal
6. Timing: Middle
7. Music: -
8. Reserved Item: Option 1
I have also done the trhrottle calibration separately on all motors.

It is actually motor 1 AND 3 AND 5 that are starting later. Every time.
I did not realize that this is not normal.
What do you think I should correct?

i wasted so many props because of esc calibrate. some of them didnt spin when you engage the motor and then when i push the throttle to about 20% my hex just tilt and flip cost so many props.

WARNING DO NOT Calibrate esc with props on DO NOT

It must all swing when you engage the motor. Calibrate by plug esc to your rx throttle output. rx must be power first then turn on Tx and push throttle to max. turn on your esc you will hear some tone, then your cell tone(number of cell on your battery) then a long beep that mean it accepted the max throttle of your tx, then you must move your throttle to the lowest and you will hear a tone again to let you know that it accept the lowest throttle. do that to the rest of the esc

all motor must spin when engage and off must stop when you disable. good luck

Originally Posted by cvs

Yes; I today tried first time the YouTube stabilization option. However original video was already good.
I am using Zippy 4S 8000mAh LiPo batteries. One battery at a time.
Yes, the low temperatures put the equipment on some extra stress. Keeping the other batteries warm in the car or in my pocket until mounting.
At this time I keep it safe and take the hexa down latest at 7min.
I will try later two paralell LiPo batteries to see how much extra time I might get.




Interesting comment related to esc calibration! I am not sure if you are correct!?
I have done the esc (HobbyWing FlyFun 30A for multirotor) programming with a programmer and my settings are:
1. Brake: Off
2. Battery Type: Ni-xx.
3. cut off type: Soft cut
4. Cut of voltage: Low
5. Start mode: Normal
6. Timing: Middle
7. Music: -
8. Reserved Item: Option 1
I have also done the trhrottle calibration separately on all motors.

It is actually motor 1 AND 3 AND 5 that are starting later. Every time.
I did not realize that this is not normal.
What do you think I should correct?

Originally Posted by cvs

It is actually motor 1 AND 3 AND 5 that are starting later. Every time.
I did not realize that this is not normal.
What do you think I should correct?

With my FH-H800+NAZA, I have also this behavior. This is not a real problem, as the three "late" motors also start properly before take off. You can set the "idle speed" of the motors in the NAZA (and WKM) software if you want all motors to start together.

Originally Posted by cvs

(25mW is highest allowed in Finland ). Works however OK on short range.

Attachment 5573482

Winter tests video enclosed (Gopro hero3)
http://youtu.be/g5tsOCunKfo

Many thanks for the build log and all comments posted!

Its all over Europe, but if you have a "Armateur Transmission Licence" you maybe will be allowed to do more, not sure if that counts on video transmition...BUT who cares? I know a lot of peple using 100m w 200mw up to 600mw . . . you might loose your insurance MAYBE cause I thing if you crash somewhere soone will look at your transmitter...what u think?

Has anyone had any problems with the clips that are used for the folding arms? One of the other brands clips are breaking the most are mounting them solid. Also what is the boom diameter and lengths.
thanks
Jeff

DS02+ Gimbal foxtechfpv (2 min 35 sec)

I made two test flights this morning (the weather is not very good...), with the following configuration:
- frame FH-H800 + gimbal + parachute (+accessories): 3305 g
- battery 4S 8000 mAh: 797 g
- GoPro with case and screw adapter: 207 g
Total mass at take off: 4309 g

The mean intensity over the flight is 46 A, for a power of 730 W. This gives 8 minutes flight time with 20% réserve.

The flight is very stable, the mass helps to mitigate the effect of wind. I installed a very fast servo directly on the tilt axis (Hitec HS-7965MG), and the image stability is very good on this axis. On the roll axis, this is still the original cheap servo, and the stabilization is not as good. I ordered a better one at HK.

The parachute alone weights 330 g, with a micro servo and the release pod, this adds about 400 g to the total weight. This is about 10% of the drone mass, which I think is a reasonable insurance for the cost of the equipment (including cameras...).

The parachute I currently have is too small and has a lot of heavy shroud lines. I will exchange it for an 8ft Rocketman parachute that weights the same, but gives 2.5 times the surface. http://www.the-rocketman.com/chutes.html
Predicted descent speed: ~4 m/s.

Originally Posted by pedrobraulio

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mF0a...NfNcXg&index=1

Hi Pedro,

Your DS02+ gimbal does not look good... I think there are two problems (at least):

1) have you checked the tightening of all the screws ? The gimbal is packed with loose screws (at least I received it like that), I suppose to avoid damages during transport.

2) there is one spacer missing on one side of the landing gear (the ones covered with carbon fiber tubes).

My gimbal does not show such problems at all, and it is actually rather precisely built.

Hello I got the same gimbal... mine is also loose got all screw tightened... still loose but not that much. I think for me it is still acceptable because of the gimbal design. The load should compensate it.

BTW I have several questions for those who purchase this gimbal... I'll be using it mainly for AP/V. I recently tested it and suffered several flips and most of the time it always hit the ground, though my cousin let me fly his quads and I can fly it without any problem. Yesterday I made successful hover for my Hexa. Has anyone of you suffered the same, like broken dome cages and dented screw heads

My main concern is the durability of the motors one of it hit the ground and got a very small near where you attach props. Is it durable enough to accept several punishment due to crash? and also is it advisable to get some spare parts.

Regarding the ESC is it also advisable to get several spare?

thanks guys I'll fly it again this weekend hope I'll be successful.

Originally Posted by Japeeps

Hello I got the same gimbal... mine is also loose got all screw tightened... still loose but not that much. I think for me it is still acceptable because of the gimbal design. The load should compensate it.

BTW I have several questions for those who purchase this gimbal... I'll be using it mainly for AP/V. I recently tested it and suffered several flips and most of the time it always hit the ground, though my cousin let me fly his quads and I can fly it without any problem. Yesterday I made successful hover for my Hexa. Has anyone of you suffered the same, like broken dome cages and dented screw heads

My main concern is the durability of the motors one of it hit the ground and got a very small near where you attach props. Is it durable enough to accept several punishment due to crash? and also is it advisable to get some spare parts.

I suppose that if the dent does not create vibrations, it is not really a problem. The main risk is that the axis of the propeller is slightly bent. This would create very bad vibrations.

Regarding the ESC is it also advisable to get several spare?

I don't have a long experience, but ESCs are pretty reliable I believe. It is probably not necessary to get spares unless you want to fly really a lot.

Thanks Spike you're really helpful...
I just recently had my maiden and it flies great with naza.
Unfortunately I was forced to buy dji opto esc so that the local distributor of DJI
here would check my hex since they are blaming my esc why my hex is flipping.

Then after installing the opto i still have same problem, then it turns out that It's not the problem. I just need to balance the props and calibrate naza and gps. Then every is good after calibration.

Can someone tell me what the tube size is on this frame? Is it a 16mm diameter tube frame? The name of the frame is fh-800. Is it indeed a 800 size frame?
thanks
Jeff

Originally Posted by jjos99

Can someone tell me what the tube size is on this frame? Is it a 16mm diameter tube frame? The name of the frame is fh-800. Is it indeed a 800 size frame?
thanks
Jeff

Yes, the tubes are 16mm diameter, and the diameter of the frame is 800mm (between motor axes).