For that you'd need to know the maximum current draw at max throtle and had to assume that the current draw change is linear to the throtle change, or I'm getting the wrong idea here.

Originally Posted by IceWind

For that you'd need to know the maximum current draw at max throtle and had to assume that the current draw change is linear to the throtle change, or I'm getting the wrong idea here.

You could make a calibration and get a good approksimation. But as the batteries gets discharged - full throttle would suddenly result in a much lower current draw etc.

All in all, a cheap solution is great - but at this point I would rather spend 10$ on a current sensor

$10 is hardly breaking the bank now is it...

Excellent work Dennis

Hi, where can I purchase current sensor for $10?

Sorry if I missed that information....

Hey, Dennis - I wish to thank you and at the same to shout at you - you made me spend over 2000€ because of your idea.

If you can not understand me because of my English - this is a joke somehow - I spend around 1500€ on aurdino stuff because your post reruted me into robotics and just did not have enough energy to buy some more aurdino systems and also robot parts to build my first autonomus robot. You opened a whole new world for me at just a proper time. I am moving to Sydney and I am allready afraid because if I would be able to regulary flight my biger planes such as FunCub there - so robotics will somehow fullfill my kids desire in me...

I plan to use DIY Osd in mini Skywalker for FPV, it has allready FY20 build in...

Tnx,
Regards Ales

Quick update...

• Top numbers replaced with large numbers instead.
• Dimming added (see picture below)

Test with dimming (need to adjust resistor). It looks much better on a screen than the cheap video-grabber

(At this picture the reference voltage is set to ground and the video-signal is biased with a fast pwm output from the micro-controller. Sync is not too bad )
I don't really like the idea about dimming the background - but it's an easy solution to make the text readable with white background.

I have ordered a recorder, so hopefully I'll be able to get some ground-recording later.

Originally Posted by mpesi1702

Hi, where can I purchase current sensor for $10?

Sorry if I missed that information....

Hey, Dennis - I wish to thank you and at the same to shout at you - you made me spend over 2000€ because of your idea.

If you can not understand me because of my English - this is a joke somehow - I spend around 1500€ on aurdino stuff because your post reruted me into robotics and just did not have enough energy to buy some more aurdino systems and also robot parts to build my first autonomus robot. You opened a whole new world for me at just a proper time. I am moving to Sydney and I am allready afraid because if I would be able to regulary flight my biger planes such as FunCub there - so robotics will somehow fullfill my kids desire in me...

I plan to use DIY Osd in mini Skywalker for FPV, it has allready FY20 build in...

Tnx,
Regards Ales

Over 2000 €? wow :P
That's quite a few arduino's.

At the moment I use an Allegro ACS755 current sensor.
http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Produ...0755/index.asp
A friendly person here on RCG donated a few for this project - awesome

- but apparently they have been replaced with a newer version (ACS758);
http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Produ...0758/index.asp

I haven't checked the difference, but I guess it's more or less the same product.

Here in DK they cost around 10 $. On digikey they cost around 7 $
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=620-1320-ND

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...acs758&x=0&y=0

Originally Posted by Dennis Frie

Quick update...

.......
I don't really like the idea about dimming the background - but it's an easy solution to make the text readable with white background.

I have ordered a recorder, so hopefully I'll be able to get some ground-recording later.

Hi Dennis, this job is great!
Please submit your modified schematic/arduino sketch with the new video-signal bias with a fast pwm because I want to start by myself some testings.

Ciao, Carlo

Originally Posted by Dennis Frie

Quick update...

.......
I don't really like the idea about dimming the background - but it's an easy solution to make the text readable with white background.

I have ordered a recorder, so hopefully I'll be able to get some ground-recording later.

Hi Dennis, this job is great!
Please submit your modified schematic/arduino sketch with the new video-signal bias with a fast pwm because I want to start by myself some testings.

About dimming the background, i think it's possible add a jumper to enable/disable the dimming as you need.

Ciao, Carlo

Is there easy way to move top line more up and bottom line more down, basicly on edges? My cam outputs wide screen, so i have black lines at top and bottom, so i want to use this lines as backgruond.

Originally Posted by carlonb

Hi Dennis, this job is great!
Please submit your modified schematic/arduino sketch with the new video-signal bias with a fast pwm because I want to start by myself some testings.

About dimming the background, i think it's possible add a jumper to enable/disable the dimming as you need.

Ciao, Carlo

Hi Carlon
Year the dimming can easily be turned on/off, but I would prefer a solution with black outlining.

Personally I prefer to have a pot to change reference voltage or bias voltage, but you can make it as you like. You might want to change the fast PWM to 9 bit for better accuracy.
At the moment the code is a mess. I will clean it a bit and upload.

Have anyone successfully used the code? I guess most of you guys are using NTSC?

Originally Posted by vipix

Is there easy way to move top line more up and bottom line more down, basicly on edges? My cam outputs wide screen, so i have black lines at top and bottom, so i want to use this lines as backgruond.

You just need to edit the line-number, should take a couple of seconds

On my screen the text is almost at the top. When using the video-grapper the pictures is quite different. You can change it yourself and make it match your googles/screen.

Nice work there Dennis, and thanks for sharing it! I've ordered one of those Arduino nano´s + GPS from DE, so hopefully I will be able to try it out!

Are you planning to design a PCB for it also? A simple single layer PCB that is easy to DIY would be a nice addition! I might give it a try myself, but I'm not sure I have the skill.. I'm struggling to learn Eagle right now, so we'll see where it ends up.. So far I've started working on the schematic, would be nice to have your input. Does it look right to you?

Do you think it's a good idea to use the onboard regulator on the nano to power it + the GPS, or would it be better to use an external reg? The datasheet says it can handle 6-20V input but recommends 7-12V, so I guess powering it from a 3S LiPo would be ok but 4S would be pushing it?

As you can see I've also added RSSI input (A3), battery voltage input (A0) + one extra analog input (A2) for future development.. Do you think there is enough processing power left to add those things?

Warning! Please be advised that this schematic is just a draft. It has not been tested and verified to work!

Schematic removed to avoid confusion.

/Andreas

I've got the Arduino through the post today, but I'm struggling to get the current sensor from a supplier that doesn't want to charge 3 times the cost of the item to post it.

I wonder how far I can get without a current sensor and gps just to test the water?

Originally Posted by andreas77

Nice work there Dennis, and thanks for sharing it! I've ordered one of those Arduino nano´s + GPS from DE, so hopefully I will be able to try it out!

Are you planning to design a PCB for it also? A simple single layer PCB that is easy to DIY would be a nice addition! I might give it a try myself, but I'm not sure I have the skill.. I'm struggling to learn Eagle right now, so we'll see where it ends up.. So far I've started working on the schematic, would be nice to have your input. Does it look right to you?

Do you think it's a good idea to use the onboard regulator on the nano to power it + the GPS, or would it be better to use an external reg? The datasheet says it can handle 6-20V input but recommends 7-12V, so I guess powering it from a 3S LiPo would be ok but 4S would be pushing it?

As you can see I've also added RSSI input (A3), battery voltage input (A0) + one extra analog input (A2) for future development.. Do you think there is enough processing power left to add those things?

Warning! Please be advised that this schematic is just a draft. It has not been tested and verified to work!



/Andreas

Hi Andreas
I will get back to you tomorrow with a new schematic and updated component values. RSSI, battery voltage etc. shouldn't be any problem.

My current solution with a little add-on board to Arduino is pretty simple. I don't think it's worth the extra work to create a PCB as long as you use an Arduino board.
If you just want to use a simple Atmega 328 microcontroller (it's cheaper. See picture in post 1), then it makes more sense to create a PCB.

Originally Posted by SouthPawPaul

I've got the Arduino through the post today, but I'm struggling to get the current sensor from a supplier that doesn't want to charge 3 times the cost of the item to post it.

I wonder how far I can get without a current sensor and gps just to test the water?

You should be fine just with the Arduino. Off course you want get any data, but you can check that it prints the text correct, you can check the current-reading (simulated with a voltage on the input) etc. So no worries.
Check my latest pictures - that's with no GPS or current-sensor attached.

I hope you guys are aware that it's (for now) only compatible with PAL. I don't have a NTSC camera, so I can't make the NTSC version.
And the code is not too pretty

Denis-
If you are willing, I can drop ship a NTSC camera from HK to you. PM me your address if you're interested.